Hi guys
Im looking to do the bolt on conversion/upgrade on my brakes to
disc brake rear end.
I was going to get the set from Steel Art but there cruising round
USA in buggies ATM& I've just ordered new wheels.
I'm looking for disc brake rear end & new rotors for front.
Stud Pattern 6 x 139.7 Landcruiser
Please let me know where I could get these from.
Cheers
DD
Google is your friend.
Yeah thanks I've done a bit of googling but thought on here would be the place to
get some info on decent bolt on kits and the NOT so decent kits available.
Cheers
Dan
I know CBB do a bolt on kit for beetles and if I remember it was based on commodore calipers. Not sure about the 6 stud though. Easy enough to get blank rotors for a bolt on kit that can be drilled out. Also I remember chatting with someone on AVD who used to do that stud pattern. Sorry but can't remember their name ATM.
Good luck with the search.
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Try talking to VWCOOL, he has a great kit. He may be able to make it suit a 6 stud disk for you.
Blank rotors for the front isn't an issue as any of the Oz, UK or USA vendors should be able to help with them.
Rears ain't so easy. Only company I can think of that can make custom spilned rear hubs for different bolt patterns is these guys
Airkewld rear brakes
Maybe CSP can to a special order too if you ask them.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Thank heaps guys, yeah the 6 stud pattern isn't as easy, but Paul at Steel Art up in Brisbane
Runs these so I'll have a chat with him up at Valla.
I'll look online at Airkewld and also pm VWCOOL.
Cheers
DD
psimitar wrote:Rears ain't so easy. Only company I can think of that can make custom spilned rear hubs for different bolt patterns is these guys
Volksconversions on the Gold Coast had blank ones last time I was there.
Dan , I have the blank front rotors as well as the blank rear disc brake kits in stock . I don't see a problem with the stud pattern you want , ROD , 02-42729920 .
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Joel, thanks for that mate, ill give them a call to see what they have in stock.
Rodney, ill give you a yell tonight if your around.
Im trying to get them sorted before Valla.
Cheers
Dan
I have some 18 x 6 ... Polished 6 stud alloy rims off an import from memory if you are interested ,
Nath
Step up to get out !!!
Joel wrote:psimitar wrote:Rears ain't so easy. Only company I can think of that can make custom spilned rear hubs for different bolt patterns is these guys
Volksconversions on the Gold Coast had blank ones last time I was there.
Hmm, but how strong do you think the splines in them are? Where/who made them for him?
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Hi NG, thanks but i have a set of wheels ready to go on if i can get some brakes sorted.
psimitar, that was a concern i had when i began looking into brakes as i don't know whats good and
whats not so good…….. Ill give Rod a call tomorrow and see what he's got.
I've seen some rear hubs break when converted to LC 6 stud as the casting was weakened when machined for the wheel centre diameter. I know Bob Mobray of Rivmaster does it but they are high dollar racing units with alloy hubs etc and I'm unsure of road going legality.
I have a feeling the pcd gets close to the wall of the disc hat and the stud head may have clearance issues, so be sure to check.
Hopefully Rod can help
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Thanks heaps for that Matt, yeah after speaking with GT up this way the 6 stud
is a very tight squeeze!
What about using the screw in studs, no need to spot face the back and leave more meat.
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Screw in studs are unsafe and should never be used....... My opinion again, sorry 🙂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
I swear most people must fit the screw in studs with Clag school glue, they always seem to unscrew out with the nuts.
I used red loctite on mine and the loctite primer before fitting with no problems and everyone knows how often my wheels get changed.
It's the unknown factor Joel. The stud can get tight in the nut and come out of the drum, this can happen and if not addressed the stud can work into the nut further and have less thread into the drum, the other aspect to this is that as we know, the VW drum has more meat in the webs where the studs go. This is because the threads into the cast iron drum need to be longer for enough strength. When you restud into a 5 stud pattern you miss some webs so the threads are not strong enough any more and will fail when subjected to enough force.
You may not have had the problem, yet. One day you may be loading the suspension by avoiding a concrete truck and similtaineously hit a pot hole and have our wheel studs break due to pathetic cheap studs failing and end up under that truck......the point is, it is not sound engineering.
For me, proper studs pressed in from behind is the only option other than stock.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Just ordered some press in studs from Rivmaster yesterday, bit of a coincidence Matt
Matt, dont get me wrong, I'd always recommend press in over screw in I was more making the point most people dont fit the screw in ones properly, you often see them unscrew out with the wheel nuts.
I should have been a bit clearer, mine isnt those crappy glue in empi straight studs they are high tensile bolts screwed in from the back side of the hub so they cant undo and pull out and loctited to make doubley sure they wont move.
I'm still 4 stud, they go through the strengthening ribs.
Very interesting guys, I don't know a lot about VW brakes, that's why I like these forums, heaps
of useful info to be taken onboard!!
Cheers
DD
All good Joel, just you stated using them, I wouldnt so I gave some reasons.examples why.
Governor....that's funny 🙂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:It's the unknown factor Joel. The stud can get tight in the nut and come out of the drum, this can happen and if not addressed the stud can work into the nut further and have less thread into the drum, the other aspect to this is that as we know, the VW drum has more meat in the webs where the studs go. This is because the threads into the cast iron drum need to be longer for enough strength. When you restud into a 5 stud pattern you miss some webs so the threads are not strong enough any more and will fail when subjected to enough force. I agree matt, but i would rather have a bit more meat left and check the studs as they are torqued up than have a disc failure at speed cause of a thinly machined press in stud on a shit casting.
I bought some rear hubs off a reputable vw mob that were about 6mm thick where the studs were to be fitted. Needless to say they are on the shelf as a reminder not to trust anyone!
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
Nothing wrong with screw in studs, if they have a full thread engagement, are off the same material and are fitted a as Joel suggested, therefore will have the same strength as the standard lug bolt,, I run them and never had one come out or change position, just fitted with 609 super retaining compound along with the correct primer, you would have to heat them up to get them out.
Hi guys
Unfortunately Rod was unable to do the 6 stud rotors so I am getting Paul from Steel Art up in Brisbane
to do me up a set. He has done a fair few sets of brakes with 6 stud Cruiser pattern so I just need to
be patient as he machines them up.
DoubleD
DDWR450F wrote:Hi guys
Unfortunately Rod was unable to do the 6 stud rotors so I am getting Paul from Steel Art up in Brisbane
to do me up a set. He has done a fair few sets of brakes with 6 stud Cruiser pattern so I just need to
be patient as he machines them up.
DoubleD
And what are they costing?
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Hi psimitar
Was about 800 with 2 new front rotors, I'm not 100% sure yet! I'll be speaking with Paul at Valla and get an
exact price.
