I like the comment on the video about the engine being "VW aftermarket 2700cc"... the new King of Understatement I reckon.
😂
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'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
hypo-vwAustralias 1st 10sec street beetle (Jan 2007) 10.49secs@132m
Dyno sheet for Chris Boltons 1967 turbo type-1 engine . Chris' engine made 305hp@ the wheels on just 10psi boost , with the new turbo header & intake manifold that I fabricated for him
This is my 1972 Superbug with my own Megasquirt fuel injection setup. Scat 1915cc engine with counterweighted 69mm crankshaft, 94mm pistons, pro-street heads with 40mm x 35.5mm stainless valves, C35 camshaft with 476” lift, 1.25:1 ratio rockers, 8.5:1 compression and 12 ½ lb lightened flywheel. Twin 50mm Ford Laser throttle boddies, 270cc Nissan CA18ET Turbo injectors, twin Holden Commodore wasted spark coils, 36/1 toothed wheel and Ford Falcon crank angle sensor, cold air induction, custom 4" muffler with twin baffled 2 1/2" tips. 78HP at the wheels at 4900rpm on 94 octane fuel. Gets 8.0L/100km on the highway and 11-13L/100km around town. Oil temps don't go over 97C and CHT under 350F. At the 2012 Warwick drags I managed an 11.537 at 59.44mph in a 970kg car (without my 92kg lard arse body) and won my four heats. Currenty fitting an AMR500 supercharger and hoping for 5-8psi of boost and 30-40hp increase in power (hopefully!!).
Thanks Gracey. I tried to attach extra pictures but I must have stuffed it up so I will do them one at a time.
Here is the graph from the Dyno Day at Leons Motors June 1st 2013.
Here is the engine without the cold-air filter box. Note that the AMR500 supercharger still needs the intake plumbing and blow-off valve to be fitted. I have had it running and boy is it LOUD. It makes a screaming noise that can be heard in the next street.
About time I had something to post in this thread.
My 2.0 litre Subaru WRX STI powered Beetle, stock motor, stock VF30 IHI turbo, 3 inch exhaust, stock ported exhaust manifolds, Grimmspeed cross pipe, PWR air to water inter cooler & Autronic SM4 ECU.
About time I had something to post in this thread.
My 2.0 litre Subaru WRX STI powered Beetle, stock motor, stock VF30 IHI turbo, 3 inch exhaust, stock ported exhaust manifolds, Grimmspeed cross pipe, PWR air to water inter cooler & Autronic SM4 ECU.
Finally put my blower conversion on the Dyno. I was very happy with the results. The engine is extremely responsive and has grunt right through the rev range. It is soooo much fun to drive on the street.
Scat 1915cc, Megasquirt ECU & custom fuel injection, E85 fuel and AMR500 supercharger. Made 116hp at 4900rpm but had a minimum of 110hp between 4000rpm and the rev limiter at 5700rpm. Maximum torque ran between 2500rpm and 4000rpm and peaked with around 525lbs of tractive effort. As a comparison, a standard 1600DP makes 38-40hp and 250lbs of tractive effort on the same Dyno. After the Dyno session I found a loose L/H inlet manifold, plus on the data logs the air-fuel ratio was in the 10's (quite rich) above 5000rpm so there may be more in the old girl yet.
davidt wrote:Finally put my blower conversion on the Dyno. I was very happy with the results. The engine is extremely responsive and has grunt right through the rev range. It is soooo much fun to drive on the street.
Scat 1915cc, Megasquirt ECU & custom fuel injection, E85 fuel and AMR500 supercharger. Made 116hp at 4900rpm but had a minimum of 110hp between 4000rpm and the rev limiter at 5700rpm. Maximum torque ran between 2500rpm and 4000rpm and peaked with around 525lbs of tractive effort. As a comparison, a standard 1600DP makes 38-40hp and 250lbs of tractive effort on the same Dyno. After the Dyno session I found a loose L/H inlet manifold, plus on the data logs the air-fuel ratio was in the 10's (quite rich) above 5000rpm so there may be more in the old girl yet.
That's awesome man good work....heaps of low end grunt and holds it up top too...luvin it..
davidt wrote:Finally put my blower conversion on the Dyno. I was very happy with the results. The engine is extremely responsive and has grunt right through the rev range. It is soooo much fun to drive on the street.
Scat 1915cc, Megasquirt ECU & custom fuel injection, E85 fuel and AMR500 supercharger. Made 116hp at 4900rpm but had a minimum of 110hp between 4000rpm and the rev limiter at 5700rpm. Maximum torque ran between 2500rpm and 4000rpm and peaked with around 525lbs of tractive effort. As a comparison, a standard 1600DP makes 38-40hp and 250lbs of tractive effort on the same Dyno. After the Dyno session I found a loose L/H inlet manifold, plus on the data logs the air-fuel ratio was in the 10's (quite rich) above 5000rpm so there may be more in the old girl yet.
That's awesome man good work....heaps of low end grunt and holds it up top too...luvin it..
Fabo
Sweet conversion M8.
What boost pressure to get those fugures?
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Thanks. The boost varies depending on revs. On the dyno run, the boost starts at 7psi at 2100rpm and then dips down to 5.3psi at 4100rpm and then climbs to 10.9psi at the 5700rpm limiter. Since I am using a positive displacement blower, the actual air getting pumped into engine cannot vary, give or take pumping loses, etc.
The boost pressure that is registered on a gauge is just the restriction of flow of the actual air getting pumped through the intake system, cylinders and exhaust system. So I believe that the boost pressure is not actually dipping in the mid range. That is where the engine is at it's most efficient. On my Scat 1915cc engine the intake plumbing size, intake port size, valve size, cam profile are set-up for max torque in the 2000-3000rpm and max power at 5000rpm. So in summery I think that if I ported the heads, fitted even larger valves and fitted a more aggressive cam suited to supercharging, then I would expect the boost to be more linear and the power would increase. An intercooler would really help as well but there is not enough space.
If you want to see the datalog from the dyno pulls then please contact me via email at thieledj@optusnet.com.au and I will send it to you (was too big to post here).
Intercooling is always an issue for Krauts.
Your smallest and most flexible option would be a water cooler (which I use on another application) A 600Hp cooler is about 350mm square by 120 thick. Can type cooers are quite small and could be placed under the back seat or something like that. The piping length is irrelevant.
Cooler radiator placement and piping mightr be a challenge tho.
the gains just arent there tho to justify the setup cosats and time on such a low pressure combo tho.
Best alternative would be water injection. It would work ok on this setup. Use a PWM aux op on ur ECU to drive the pressure pump for a fully progressive setup.
again, nowhere near necessary on this combo tho. easy enough to tune around via inlet density anyway.
Nice looking rig m8
Cheers
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
I had investigated using a water-to-air intercooler but as you said, the cost and space were an issue. I still wanted to be able to close the deck lid and have the car look standard. I have experienced manifold air temps of up to 150C with the highest readings being under deceleration. So to combat the high temps, I converted to E85. That required larger or additional injectors. There were four 270cc injectors in the inlet manifolds and I installed a 170cc injector between the throttle body and the blower and then another 170cc unit after the blower. The MAT sensor was installed close to the air outlet of the blower. Unfortunately the reading from the MAT sensor were incorrect unless decelerating as the fuel was cooling the sensor and giving an incorrect reading. The high air temp melted the MAT sensor on the drive to the dyno session so I have now moved the sensor to just above the L/H inlet manifold. I will see what the results are after the new fan arrives. I had installed water injection early on when I was using petrol to combat the inlet temps and also the detonation that I was experiencing. It is probably not needed now but it doesn't hurt to use it. Yes I am controlling the water spray with the Megasquirt ECU. The injector prior to the blower has now been moved to after the blower into the position vacated by the MAT sensor. I guess we will see how it all goes.
Those sky high IAT's are a mystery tho. Something is wrong in my view.
With tha TB as a pull-thru closed, and close to absolute vacuum behind it, there isnt anytbing to compress and generate the heat and b ugger all airflow to remove the heat.
Your pipework is pretty large, but just isnt subject to that much radiated heat with the zorst pipes exiting below........
Its under 4Deg.C temp rise per psi compressing air, ignoring any additional mechanical heat sources so how the temps are being elevated that high in the inlet and the fact that youve had to get so funky with additional injectors is very worthy of further investigation.
Good luck with it tho. its a very cool installation!!!
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
That was my thinking when I converted from blow-through to draw-through. But the blower still generates excessive heat. It turns freely and I have checked the oil level. The water injection is between the butterfly and the blower inlet. The blower is running a pulley ratio of 3:1 and is spinning at 2800rpm at engine idle, 9000rpm at 100kph and 16500rpm at 5500rpm. I guess this is what is causing the high temps.
Thanks.
Jeez. Blow thru with a superblower!!! Gawwd.
Thats a complete arse to get working at all with bloody blow off/relief valves hissing everywhere or belts flicking off. Throttle response ends up pretty firey as well!!!! Instant boost once the throttle is cracked!!!
A M8 set up a blow thru turbo over supercharger on a crazy Pinto 2.3. it was idling at 12psi!!!!!! Had several 2" poppett valves set up to relieveair pressure down from the blower and the thing wheezed like a big air compressor at idle and any time the throttle was shut!
If it didnt flick the blower belts off it went from idling to about 300 Hp the instant the throttle was cracked!
This was an (estimated) 700Hp turbo over supercharged thing and was undriveable.. I mean.. UNdriveable. it just went from zero to hero as soon as the throttle was cracked.
Was funny to see it getting out of the driveway alternately idling or frying tyres. its all it did!!!!!!!
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
I've only posted the HP vrs Boost graph but the air ratio graph looks good with a:f ratio at just under -12:1 alomost all the way thru the rev range and the other graph is the tractive effort which pretty much followed the HP graph and peaked at around 1030 lbs force.
Not a bad result for what is basically a stock EJ20 twin turbo out of a 1995 liberty. All I have done is eliminate the PCV valve, pod filter on the intake, straight thru exhaust from each turbo, exhaust vacuum crackcase extraction into oil catch cans, a reprogrammed Mines No2 ECU and an external oil cooler/filter plus a front mount air to air intercooler. Details are under the non-vw engine forum.
This is running on 98 octane fuel and we are now going to change over to my 105 octane fuel which should improve the numbers even further.
69mm x 85.5mm = 1584cc
8.5:1 CR
counter weighted crank
stock rods
stock pistons with modified rings
lightened flywheel
Balanced
Stock twin port heads, no porting or polishing anywhere.
Stock valves and seats with a 3 angle cut.
Single springs
Stock rockers modified to 1.25:1 (max lift 9.6mm inlet and 9.2mm exhaust)
Solex 34 carb with a 29mm restrictor plate immediately below.
approx 205 main.
Stock inlet mainfold and end castings.
Still running a stock fan
009 distributor with electronic ignition
66hp and 83ft/lb engine will not see over 6000rpm. As you can see our inlet restriction kills us.
Rosco86 wrote:69mm x 85.5mm = 1584cc
8.5:1 CR
counter weighted crank
stock rods
stock pistons with modified rings
lightened flywheel
Balanced
Stock twin port heads, no porting or polishing anywhere.
Stock valves and seats with a 3 angle cut.
Single springs
Stock rockers modified to 1.25:1 (max lift 9.6mm inlet and 9.2mm exhaust)
Old thread but I thought it might be worth reviving
I had the Oval tuned the other day on a dyno at Tunesmith
Engine specifications
1916. Stock heads 110 Engle cam (not ideal for a supercharged motor) and 1.25 rockers, Vintage speed exhaust. 4 LS coils, Dubshop crankangle sensor and CB cam position sensor. Haltech Nexus 2 ecu. 485cc injectors with a 5th injector before the supercharger and drive by wire.
SC12 supercharger with custom pulleys.
Best 98 RON run was 98.5 kW or 132 hp at 5550 rpm and 80% throttle.
We then swapped to E85 and did a few power runs but a gasket leak at the inlet manifold prevented anymore power runs, but it still made 108kW or 145.6 hp at the wheels on 90% throttle.
The best thing about the drive by wire is that the throttle can be used to limit boost. The drive by wire is also used as a rev limiter, it rolls the throttle off near redline before a fuel cut
I'm using Mexican efi manifolds that were modified by Ben Wallker from Third Strike Fabrications