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Advice please. 1916 Engine upgrade opportunity or just repair

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drindiana Casual Dubber

23 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#998264
Apologies if this post is similar to others and thanks to those who post in other threads who continue to contribute to my learning. I have very little mechanical experience or tools so rely on paid help. Apologies also for the length.
Now the background to my dilemma or opportunity; my 71 bus with 1916 (with aftermarket EFI / ECU setup, full flow oil system and external cooler) has thrown a valve from the rocker on cylinder 4 and is not happy at all and is sitting in my drive. My local mechanic (keeping names out) with good VW experience has advised that the motor needs to come out to see what damage has been done, and repair and replace accordingly. Seems fair. The estimated price for the activity (obviously not knowing the damage) is ~$1500. I don’t know if that is fair but not knowing the damage it could be.
With labour rates as they are, lack of personal capacity and an urge for more torque I asked him for a quote using as much of the existing motor as possible to make me a lower cost stroker (2054 or 2109). I didn’t want to go bigger as I understand the cost could double to match the capacity needs e.g. breather, machining, new cam, etc. I don’t have the budget now for this. This is the quote:
CRANKSHAFT $299.00
Connecting Rods $ 455.00
Inlet valve seats $36.00 ( set of 4 )
Exhaust valve seats$36.00 ( set of 4 )
Inlet valve 40mm $60.00 ( set of 4)
Exhaust valves 35.5mm $60.00 ( set of 4)
Spring retainers and collets $78.00
Hot wash $100.00
Lash caps $40.00
Engine gasket kit $ 40.00
Flywheel seal and "O" ring $20.00
Engine oil $30.00
Oil filter $15.00
Cylinder head repair fitting new seats and valves and porting $1000.00
Main bearings $140.00
Rod bearings $65.00
Dual thrust camshaft bearings $ 47.00
Valve springs $46.70
Freight for parts $ 250.00.
Labour R/R motors stripping down and fitting of all new parts and pre assembly of motor and tear down and final assembly of motor. $1500.00
Sub total will be $4317.7
GST. $. 431.77
Grand total. $ 4749.47
So now I need to decide if just over $3k is worth having a rebuilt motor with extra torque. My initial thought is yes as I sort of have the money :-/ But I would be interested to hear if the pricing seems about right and whether I will really feel the difference between the 1916 and the stroker.
Cheers S

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#998269
For $299 I would be asking what sort of stroker crank you are getting.
Sounds cheap

A stroker "may" be wider than a stock motor.
Can you reuse your exhaust.

Not sure what changes to the fuel injection would be required. Could involve dyno and reprogramme time and money

I don't see any changes to heads or cam.
I doubt you would see much difference if you are just adding a few

I would just be rebuilding what you have
Futue te ipsum!!!

drindiana Casual Dubber

23 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#998274
Apparently crank shaft and other parts are coming from CB Performance. Had a look at their website and for a 76mm forged chromoly with Chev or VW journals is less than $299.
I had heard that CB stuff was is decent.
The cam to be used is the one in the 1916 which we won't know the spec exactly until it is out.
The exhaust can be reused. Well I think you can. It is a Vintage Speed Sport muffler.
I will be up for a retune of the ECU. So an hour or two there.
Also for the heads he said we could do the CB 1398 044 Super Mag CNC Round Port (40 x 35.5) 94mm Bore heads http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1398 instead of the quoted work on the existing heads. Looks to be the same spec but with a slight cost saving.
So did I understand correctly that going from 69mm crank to 76mm is not that noticeable?
cheers

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#998287
Put the money into improving your 1915, buying cheap parts you will still end up with an underperforming engine. Quality costs money and cheap parts break/wear prematurely.
Capacity helps with torque but quality lasts a lot longer.

1915cc VW can make anything from a standard-ish 50hp to a worlds best of 248hp AT-THE-WHEELS
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

drindiana Casual Dubber

23 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#998290
Cheers thanks for that. Had a conversation with Rod Penrose and he said a very similar thing. Taking this on board I think once we get the heads off and find they are stock I will add some CB 044 Super Mag CNC Round Port (40 x 35.5) 94mm Bore heads, seeing that my current ones needs work at a minimum or could be a bit worse. The motor has only ~25K on it so it has some life left.
If there any other recc's for heads I am all ears.
cheers S

drindiana Casual Dubber

23 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#998805
Just following up the last post. Took the bus back to CBB. Bus was fixed quickly and as it turns out the original diagnosis I received was not entirely correct.
I also want to point out the issue with the motor was due to my driving or the previous owner I am not entirely sure who but it is what it is. Too many rev's from me or before me causing a valve spring issue.
So with that said my first post on this though intended not to cause problem for CBB did for which I apologise. The joys of forum posting and non intended consequences. Lesson learnt for me.
Having to wait was mainly why I went somewhere else, all I can say now is that the bus will be going nowhere else. The work Mike does there and the product he delivers is top notch and there is a reason why there is a wait.
If there are folk out there who changed or were thinking of changing their decision to get work done by CBB, in short don't.
If you want to discuss get in contact with me via PM or email.
cheers.