helbus wrote:The outlet off my fuel tank had a thread I was able to fit a screw on barb with a hose size to suit a VL Commodore type EFI fuel pump. The return was put on one of the engine bay breather pipes.
Yep, mines got the threaded outlet, seems like it's an m18 size or close, just can't find a female 10 mm barb. I'll keep looking.
As for the return line into the breather, does it matter if it's the left or right one in the engine bay?
Sorry for all the questions, it's all the little fiddly things that have me scratching my head
Cheers johno
Hi Johno,
I initially used one of the tank breather lines as a fuel return but was never happy with it and at times had the smell of fuel in the cabin.
I later returned the fuel low down into the filler neck with a larger diameter fitting and much happier - no more fuel smell. Probably worth taking the time at this stage to create a dedicated large bore return into the tank as its much harder later on.
Cheers
1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
Got a bit more done today, welded in the crossmember mounts( before anyone comments, welding isn't my strong point!). Also cut a hole thru the rear floor and fed the harness thru.
Cleaned a heap of the loose paint out of the engine bay and gave it a supa dupa rattle can matt black paint job.
Then set about setting up the electrics under the back seat.
Also ran a five core trailer cable from the rear seat area thru to the front cabin, so I can connect up the tachometer, temp gauge and vss.
My fuel return line was fed directly into the tank on the RHS. If you unscrew the tank cover that is very accessible while the engine is out, you will see the vapour outlet on the RHS. I put a rubber fuel hose the same diameter as the fuel return line on the Subaru engine, into the vapour outlet of the same diameter on the bus fuel tank. I cut a hole in the top of the tank cover, and slid a rubber gommet into the hole for the return line to go through. The breather line on the tank is the same size as the return line on the fuel rail of the Subaru engine. I did not actually attach it to the fuel line that runs through the engine bay tubes that run up the air vents up the top of the air inlet vents at the top of the quarter panels.
I attached the other LH fuel vapour line from the bus fuel tank to the vapour line on the Subaru injection manifold that runs to the emissions cannister. The engineer signing off the certificate paperwork for the state registration was happy with this setup, as it is as the original Subaru engine was setup. It passed all emissions tests, and the paperwork has only ever been asked for once by the Highway Patrol, however it was a good investment, as it means our insurance is also valid, as they also asked for a copy of the engineers report.
chellie
you are going gangbusters
when you say you welded in the crossmember..? do you just mean the brackets?
i did mine all with big 12 mm nuts and bolts as I used the original subie crossmember
I found there was a real art in jacking up engine and gearbox to find the ideal height so as to avoid a low hanging sump
Sunnyjim wrote:chellie
you are going gangbusters
when you say you welded in the crossmember..? do you just mean the brackets?
i did mine all with big 12 mm nuts and bolts as I used the original subie crossmember
I found there was a real art in jacking up engine and gearbox to find the ideal height so as to avoid a low hanging sump
I used an rjes crossmember and the side brackets needed to be welded onto the chassis.
The later kombi like mine has the upper gearbox crossmember, don't think the lowlight does? It's made it much easier to position.
You seem to be getting pretty close now, how long before you're on the road.
helbus wrote:My fuel return line was fed directly into the tank on the RHS. If you unscrew the tank cover that is very accessible while the engine is out, you will see the vapour outlet on the RHS. I put a rubber fuel hose the same diameter as the fuel return line on the Subaru engine, into the vapour outlet of the same diameter on the bus fuel tank. I cut a hole in the top of the tank cover, and slid a rubber gommet into the hole for the return line to go through. The breather line on the tank is the same size as the return line on the fuel rail of the Subaru engine. I did not actually attach it to the fuel line that runs through the engine bay tubes that run up the air vents up the top of the air inlet vents at the top of the quarter panels.
I attached the other LH fuel vapour line from the bus fuel tank to the vapour line on the Subaru injection manifold that runs to the emissions cannister. The engineer signing off the certificate paperwork for the state registration was happy with this setup, as it is as the original Subaru engine was setup. It passed all emissions tests, and the paperwork has only ever been asked for once by the Highway Patrol, however it was a good investment, as it means our insurance is also valid, as they also asked for a copy of the engineers report.
Thanks Helbus, you've confirmed what I had planned and that was to go thru the tank cover, seems the most logical. Did you still us a canister or did you get rid of it completely?
What year is your Kombi?
I'd assume aussie Kombis got charcoal canisters same time as aussie beetles in beginning of 75.
if your car was originally equipped with one you have to keep it but if its before that you dont require one.
I did install the subi one in my bug as it only just predates cansisters but the engineer told me it wasnt required, no harm in having one though.
Hey Joel
Mines a 74, no canister but think I might leave the suby one on, there's plenty of room in there. Can't hurt.
The engineer stated when I presented the bus. "The emissions test is based on the vehicle or engine, whichever is the newest" So a 1993 EJ22 Subaru engine fitted to a 1975 bus must pass 1993 emission tests. Vapour cannister and catalytic converter were checked for me, and found to be fitted correctly.
chellie,
I went to see Pete at CVD and he made a new bigger outlet in my fuel tank for me . I now use the original outlet as the fuel return.
I also have my bosch 044 pump mounted close to where u have yours... god it still is noisy!
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=98668&page=7helbus wrote:The engineer stated when I presented the bus. "The emissions test is based on the vehicle or engine, whichever is the newest" So a 1993 EJ22 Subaru engine fitted to a 1975 bus must pass 1993 emission tests. Vapour cannister and catalytic converter were checked for me, and found to be fitted correctly.
Must be the difference between NSW and Vic, I only had to fit the cat and not the charcoal canister.
Throttle body reverser arrived today from RJES. Looks great, a lot more comprehensive than I thought.
I'll put it on this weekend.
Cheers johno
I would lick that. It looks so nice
helbus wrote:I would lick that. It looks so nice
Already did, that's why it's so shiny!!!
Bolted up the throttle body today using the RJES kit. I can't recommend highly enough this reverser kit, it went together without a hitch. Came with a support bracket, air flow meter manifold with connections for breather pipes and also the large diameter breather pipe was included as a different shape is neede once the body is flipped.
I've been having trouble finding a larger diameter fuel tank outlet barb, so today I went and got a brass one from the rural supply store, stuck it in the drill press and filed it down until I could fit it into the outlet nut. Then I shortened it a bit and drilled a 12mm hole in the nut and sat it in. It's also got a rubber o-ring inside, so fingers crossed it doesn't leak once I fit it.
Should get a bit more fuel through than the old one.
Bit more done today, fitted the temperature gauge and also the matching sender(thanks Sunnyjim for your post re correct temp sender).
Fitted the VSS, took all of 5 minutes, and then started doing a bit of soldering.
Also drilled a hole through the tank cover and plumbed some fuel hose into the tank breather.
Fitted the fuel filter and bracket as well, then refitted the cover.
The radiators are finished and ready for pick up but gotta go to work for the next four days.BUGGER!
chellie
you are a kombi dynamo, so quick, you have left us in your wake.
You are the Usain Bolt of the Kombi conversion world !
You can work out other fuel line sizes and fittings when using a surge tank, which you can gravity feed, as the bus tank is high enough. You don't HAVE to fit one, and I didn't fit one to our bus. However on hard cornering to the right when fuel is low, I have had fuel starvation a few times.
Sunnyjim,
I'm surprised too at how quickly it's coming together, I've been planning it for a couple of years and reading a lot of stuff, taking ideas from everyone's builds. It's amazing, when i get stuck with something I go back through the builds on here and often find the solution. I've got a deadline to meet and that's Old Bar weekend in October, I'm running out of time pretty rapidly! But we'll see.
All the fuel barbs I found are the right diameter thread but too coarse, it's a really fine thread on the tank, anyway, as long as it doesn't leak I won't need to find one.
Helbus,
I'm doing the same as what you did and not running a surge tank. I don't think I'll be doing much hard cornering, then again never had this much power in a kombi either!
Cheers Johno
Got a mate to cut off the radiator filler caps,I reckon he did a great job.should be able to get these fitted this week.
john
my rads sprung a leak , not sure if i can repair, I might buy one or 2 of these honda civic ones
how much does yr mate charge to weld them shut?
paul
Sunnyjim wrote:john
my rads sprung a leak , not sure if i can repair, I might buy one or 2 of these honda civic ones
how much does yr mate charge to weld them shut?
paul
Hey Paul,
Not sure what he would charge, I can find out if you like. Where did they leak from, bloody hope mine don't!.
thats the problem with china made alloy rads, or anything for that matter.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Had a go at making a cover to seal the left side radiator, turned out pretty well I thought, put a couple of brackets on to hold the overflow tank.
Fan arrived today, as did the air cleaner, tomorrow I'll have another crack at getting the wiring sorted.
