What would be a good engine and gearbox combo for highway driving in a 6v beetle?
I'll convert it to 12 v soon.
What are you running?
Chris
oldturtle22 Officially Full-On Dubber
267 posts · joined Nov 2011 ·
Gearbox/ engine combo for highway ?
hellbugged 48's and straight cuts
5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
Stock is good
modnrod Fahrvergnugen
978 posts · joined Mar 2011 ·
+ lots.hellbugged wrote:Stock is good
Mildly tweaked is probably gooderer, but probably not worth the expense unless you're already going in anyway.
BiX Veteran Volks Folk
2,499 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Stock and play with your tire size if needed to tweak the gearing.
Engine, stock or go with a larger engine (such a large option out there) but go for torque not power....
Engine, stock or go with a larger engine (such a large option out there) but go for torque not power....
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Go hard or go home!!!!
HappyDaze Superannuated
2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·
👍hellbugged wrote:Stock is good
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
oldturtle22 Officially Full-On Dubber
267 posts · joined Nov 2011 ·
Thanks, I was going to run something like a 1835 engine down the track. Just something to keep up with traffic.
Allbones Officially Full-On Dubber
395 posts · joined Jul 2012 ·
I'm running a 1500sp, later model swinger box and 165/80 15's
No problems at all pulling away first at lights or sitting on 100kph. Anything past 120kph feels too skatey anyway. haha.
So with the above said, another +1 for stock(ish).
No problems at all pulling away first at lights or sitting on 100kph. Anything past 120kph feels too skatey anyway. haha.
So with the above said, another +1 for stock(ish).
bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6
6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·
More low down engine torque to prevent the need for highway hill down shifting isn't a bad idea 👍 Throw in a stroker crank conservative cam, valve sizes and carb 😁
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
68BUS Wolfsburg Wizard
485 posts · joined Jul 2011 ·
I drove my early bug with a 1600TP and it happily did 100. Reved a bit high at 110. Not sure of gear box.
My bus has a 1776 with the stock single solex carb and it happily does 110 (maxed out not long after) but it is lacking the get up and go for decent acceleration at that speed and on hills.
When I can afford it I think I will fit a decent set of dual carbs and upgrade the rocker gear.
But that is pushing a little bit more wind and weight then the beetle would.
Once again not certain on gearbox but I am pretty sure it is a late bay 1600 as I have IRS conversion done.
My bus has a 1776 with the stock single solex carb and it happily does 110 (maxed out not long after) but it is lacking the get up and go for decent acceleration at that speed and on hills.
When I can afford it I think I will fit a decent set of dual carbs and upgrade the rocker gear.
But that is pushing a little bit more wind and weight then the beetle would.
Once again not certain on gearbox but I am pretty sure it is a late bay 1600 as I have IRS conversion done.
1966 Aussie 11 Window
Governor Wolfsburg Wizard
414 posts · joined Nov 2008 ·
Have a word with Mr Berry hes in Qld he should be able to give you some advice
grumble Son of Jim - Creator of Good
2,672 posts · joined Jun 2008 ·
Having been along the track of modified motors,twin carburettors of various breeds over the years,i settled back to a 1600 single port in my 1961 Ghia about 25 or 30 years ago when it was my daily driver (80kms plus each day)and it sings along reliably at 110 or better on the freeway with no great loss on the hills or the constant working on tickly tuning.hellbugged wrote:Stock is good
For power and reliability the 1800 or 2litre T4 converted to upright is awesome but then you need brake upgrades etc..
modnrod Fahrvergnugen
978 posts · joined Mar 2011 ·
Yep, me too. I'm over the twin Webers and FK87s, I'd rather have something that pulls off idle to make it easier to get off the mark with the dragbike in the trailer behind it! 😂
This is just me personally though, each to their own. I still like 7000rpm and big ugly spitting carbs, just not every day.
I'm just building a new motor for what I want now, based around highway revs of 3000-3300, towing torque for that little light trailer, and generally being smooth and (*sigh* Jeez I'm getting old!) ........ pleasant.
This recipe never fails, you might like it too..........
Stock cam with 1.4s, or a cam with intake duration less than 230*@.050" or so if you're already going in (more WILL reduce bottom end). Norris 352 or 329, CB "cheater", this Schneider ....... http://schneidercams.com/131Fvolkstype1.aspx
Stock Solex 34 or small Stromberg 1BBL on centrebranch.
Any exhaust that you like the sound of best, and has intake heat if it gets cold at your place.
Stock heads with good valve seats and decent high-flow valves (like from CB or SI), maybe mild pocket port perhaps.
If you keep the stock .89/.93 4th gear and mix it with a stock 1.26 3rd gear (rather than the 1.36/1.41 3rd some like for dragracing), then IF you get some stooopid hills, or IF you are towing/carrying a bit of weight, you can kick it back to 3rd and still hold 90kph without revving it's tits off. Hhhmmm, funny how they might have thought of that when building a small underpowered car.
Capacity is whatever you already have, or are willing to go to, bigger is not always better. My latest new motor is going to be a 83mm bore with a 76mm crank, partly coz I have them in the shed, and partly coz if I don't use a big-bore kit then I can consider myself a rebel!
😂
15km/L easily, probably 150kph (maybe, who cares?), 0-100 in under 10 secs, it's all good.
Enjoy.
This is just me personally though, each to their own. I still like 7000rpm and big ugly spitting carbs, just not every day.
I'm just building a new motor for what I want now, based around highway revs of 3000-3300, towing torque for that little light trailer, and generally being smooth and (*sigh* Jeez I'm getting old!) ........ pleasant.
This recipe never fails, you might like it too..........
Stock cam with 1.4s, or a cam with intake duration less than 230*@.050" or so if you're already going in (more WILL reduce bottom end). Norris 352 or 329, CB "cheater", this Schneider ....... http://schneidercams.com/131Fvolkstype1.aspx
Stock Solex 34 or small Stromberg 1BBL on centrebranch.
Any exhaust that you like the sound of best, and has intake heat if it gets cold at your place.
Stock heads with good valve seats and decent high-flow valves (like from CB or SI), maybe mild pocket port perhaps.
If you keep the stock .89/.93 4th gear and mix it with a stock 1.26 3rd gear (rather than the 1.36/1.41 3rd some like for dragracing), then IF you get some stooopid hills, or IF you are towing/carrying a bit of weight, you can kick it back to 3rd and still hold 90kph without revving it's tits off. Hhhmmm, funny how they might have thought of that when building a small underpowered car.
Capacity is whatever you already have, or are willing to go to, bigger is not always better. My latest new motor is going to be a 83mm bore with a 76mm crank, partly coz I have them in the shed, and partly coz if I don't use a big-bore kit then I can consider myself a rebel!
😂
15km/L easily, probably 150kph (maybe, who cares?), 0-100 in under 10 secs, it's all good.
Enjoy.