type iv for beetles

bigbruvabob · 2004-01-04T07:45:24+00:00

hi guys still searching for that best reliable bang for your buck motor and wonmdering what people out there think of type iv motors for beetles. looking for really strong reliable motor options. all opinions welcome there is a huge amount of decisions to be made when looking for that motor

NuZo Officially Full-On Dubber

286 posts · joined Mar 2008 · 24 Oct 2008, 9:23 am

#676370

the reason i was asking all these questions was for peoples personal advice and experiences. i have been resurching and what not, but i wanted a first person view of what people have done. that was all..just to get a feel for how things differ.

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,474 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 24 Oct 2008, 12:54 pm

#676383

matberry wrote:With dollars being tight, do the type one. I have built many type 1's and type IV's, for kombi's and beetles.
I believe Alex Holzl is now going back to type 1...go figure.
!

alex was always type one but the green monster is t4 all the way. its 2.7L going fuel injected with turbo. just to see if they cant beat that gt3 as well as a new 915 box.
as for dissing builders there are some that should be shot, ie for dodgy practices, the two ive seen mentioned so far are fine but there are others that like the use of red silicon to seal cases. these should be avoided.
ether way the reason i suggested richard is he is the next suburb over from you.

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

LIFE IN THE LOW LANE All people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the pr

2,534 posts · joined Mar 2007 · 24 Oct 2008, 11:07 pm

#676455

Hillbilly wisdom LOL!!

FYI regarding the conversion to a subaru engine of say 2-2.2L. My bus runs a 2.0 type 4 with ported 1800 heads, 40mm dellorto's, cam change balanced bottom end, super light flywheel,1700 rockers,7.4:1 comp and full custom exhaust. to build something like this would cost somewhere in the vicinity of about 8-10K with all new parts. Now my engine has just had a new set of rings fitted and new exhaust valves and a head repaired from dropping an exhaust valve. engine has done 364000 k's and i ran it at Warwick and was quicker than the subaru powered buses with mildish mods by nearly .5 second. I know for a fact that the suby powered buses are making about the 100hp atw and my engine is prolly around 80-90hp ish. But the thing they lack is the torque so don't be so hung up on HP figures as they don't always tell the truth performance wise.

My engine in a beetle I think would be a killer. Super reliable with nice power and plenty of torque. And you don't have to rev the ring out of it to make it go. 6000rpm tops and low comp makes the longevity factor attractive to me.

Type 1 will definately be cheaper to build if you use cheap parts. I heard a bloke talking at Warwick about the price of rebuilding a Type 4. "about 3k" he was saying. To me that is a very cheap rebuild and would love to know how many corners are being cut to achieve that kind of price. And you can do the same with a Type 1. Short cut and don't do it properly and you could do it real cheap but you are essentially building a hand grenade.

If you want to build a quality performance engine then be content with a stock 1600 and start saving and accumulating the parts needed to do it properly. Otherwise all that will happen is you'll end up with bagging VW's for being unreliable pieces of crap to which they aren't if built properly.

ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE

Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!

Newt Wolfsburg Wizard

478 posts · joined Mar 2008 · 25 Oct 2008, 1:20 pm

#676499

Hi Guys,

Im currious about blowers. I read a while back about a SC12 going on a 1776. Would a SC12 be suitable for a 2l?

Also been pondering those little sump extensions to control oil pick up on hard cornering. Are they a bit exposed? ie do they scrape / ever get severly banged?

Cheers

Newt

It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.

NuZo Officially Full-On Dubber

286 posts · joined Mar 2008 · 25 Oct 2008, 2:45 pm

#676511

HEY! STOLE MY PAINT JOB!!! lulz!!!

yeah sc12 is good for 1.6 - 2.0L as i think it displaces 1200cc of air. were as the sc14 is for 2.5L+ as it does 1400cc? i tihnk thats right?

Newt Wolfsburg Wizard

478 posts · joined Mar 2008 · 25 Oct 2008, 2:58 pm

#676512

Ive read that the SC14 was found on 2l (6 cylinder).

Newt

It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 25 Oct 2008, 3:58 pm

#676522

the only reason i didnt use an SC14 is they are just to long physically to fit the type 1 engine
ive also got an SC14 under the house and with the stock cooling no amount of tinkering was gonna make it fit and still have the engine lid not looking like frankenstien

they are perfectly suited to anything over 1.6L

only difference betweeen the 2 is 14 is 50mm longer and displaces 1420cc vs 1200cc for the 12s

alot of the 4AGZE boys swap out their 12s for 14s cos they handle more boost

Newt Wolfsburg Wizard

478 posts · joined Mar 2008 · 26 Oct 2008, 12:17 am

#676620

Sorry for my ignorance, but does that mean the 12 is too small for a 2l?

Newt

It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.

NuZo Officially Full-On Dubber

286 posts · joined Mar 2008 · 26 Oct 2008, 9:35 am

#676638

depends how much boost u want to run..if its only a little bit of boost, then i think it would be ok? if u want high psi like 10+ psi then i think it would be usless casue it wouldnt be preforming the way an sc14 would be. lol but joel is the one with the experiance!! let him answe the question alot better then i can!! 😀