humpty wrote:No matter what, I wouldn't stick a rotor in there, but maybe thats just me being an old fart!!!
I'll always go new tech over old tech if you are serious about performance and "bang for buck".
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by humpty]
hehe. then why did u spend the money making a vw motor quick? :p. but neway. i dont see what people have so bad against the rotor. only thing it lacks is low end torque. but it seems less work to get a rotor in the car than say an ej20t. and power figures from rotors are very impressive. but ya know. everyone has their own view on things.
Rotaries are the 2 strokes of cars,yeah they go fast but u have to rev the guts out of them first,and on the street in your ususal roll on skirmishes torque is the winner :blah
a 13b should have more torque than a standard 1600 yeah?. and a lot more power. at the moment its a choice between a stock 1600 and a NA carby 13b. which is why im thinking 13b. eventually. come mid next year. i will do a turbo conversion. wether it be a 13b turbo (EFI) or a ej20t. but for now the choice is 13b or vw 🙂. wat would u guys choose?
Are they the same price....dont you already have the 1600 in bits???
Can anyone over there help him......
Bore kit..and machining.....1916cc
engle 110 or whatever for a bit more...
Home port on heads...
Kadrons/dellortos(bit cheaper)
009 and a set of headers....
Could be done quite cheap...
Whats the rotary going to cost once you buy everything else for it.... $2500.
You could do the 1916 for less and to 100kph would spank the rotary...
hi i have a 71 superbug.bought it a few months ago, had a few problems like starter motor, battery and then wiper motor,i love my dub,,it hauls arse. .it was all done up when i bought it but the guy did his own electrics.but now it is perfect,cheap on fuel.
what sort of power can u expect from such a 1916?
the 13b should be about 110-130hp.
the reason the choice was 13b or 1600 is because i have been researching into hot vw engines and i always seem to hit the same wall. REDICULOUS amounts of money for any sort of performance and then reliability is low and maintenance high. at least thats what i keep being told. at least the rotary is somewhat newer technology. (these are the opinions of people i have been talking to).
neway.
p+c kit looking at about 500 bucks yeah?,
engle 110 $220 (with cam gear).
machining i would have no idea. (someone please insert price).
already got dual kadrons. so thats not an issue.
home port job. dad should be able to do that.
009 dizzy $???(asked around but no-one said they could get it).
that is what i figure. anyone can help with more accurate prices .etc.
it would be GREAT.
Hey gentlemen,interesting coments ,stick to the subie for less then $7000 you can have it running at 225kw or 300hp thats not STI trick up bits either. That knocks of any type 4 mild 13B.Subies a alot cheaper to set up then you all have suggested.Proof in the pudding Orange racecar JVLRacing
simon had a heap of gear cheap at the swapmet crank , cam , clutch , there was a pition kit there ( marks may be ) 009 dizzy , heaps of bits low in cost :jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus:jesus
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Engine only dude,adds up eh.U probly dont wanna here this but start out on something a little less otherwise what u gunna build up to later and while your taming this beast we could see u on the 6oclock news,but on a lighter note hopefully by the time yuv got the bucks and a few prangs behind u yule be ok :P ps.if this makes no sense at all disregard all of the above :blah
With a 1916 your standard superbig brakes will do fine and so will your standard box.
RIGHT NOW HOW MUCH DO YOU HAVE TO SPEND?????
we can then stop dwelling on the impossible and start looking at what you can actually afford.
Forget the hp figures...a 1916 will go way hard enough for your first step up from a stocker...and you cannot afford anything else anyway....This will give you a good indication of what your car will need if you want to take the next step with a conversion.
Rotary: lots of work...too expensive...maybe not allowed.
Subaru: Too expensive..lots of work..maybe too much power for first project.
What is left?????? bore kit on a 1600...
Matt
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
leave your beetle standard and just buy a 2nd hand ford or holden.......................or buy a 1990 Mx5 for about $8k or a series 5 turbo rx7 for $8k.
The hardest cost to work out on all the conversions on this forum is the labour component. We all seem to do the "hard" work and development ourselves and we do not factor in the countless hours spent on the weekends etc creating the actual conversion. If it takes 4 full weekends of work.........we are happy as this means the conversion has only taken 1 month...............but if we had to pay someone $75 per hour for this work then the conversion would have cost $6000 approx in labour.
If you are doing the work yourself then your labour is only costing you the time away from your social life ! or the $$ you could be making working in your business !!
Craig Torrens wrote:leave your beetle standard and just buy a 2nd hand ford or holden.......................or buy a 1990 Mx5 for about $8k or a series 5 turbo rx7 for $8k.
The hardest cost to work out on all the conversions on this forum is the labour component. We all seem to do the "hard" work and development ourselves and we do not factor in the countless hours spent on the weekends etc creating the actual conversion. If it takes 4 full weekends of work.........we are happy as this means the conversion has only taken 1 month...............but if we had to pay someone $75 per hour for this work then the conversion would have cost $6000 approx in labour.
If you are doing the work yourself then your labour is only costing you the time away from your social life ! or the $$ you could be making working in your business !!
why the F@#k would i buy one of those????
yes labour costs. i would try do everything myself. (with help of friends and family). subaru engine just seem so damn big. to fit in the back of a vw compared to rotary's.
boof2332 wrote:Problem is for 71 superbug....he does not have $7000.
I am doing my ej20t for less than $7000 and thats with the vf24 ball bearing turbo and sti cooler.
For the 1916....Barrels $450, machining $250 and $115 for a 009 dizzy, merged headers $300...not thunderbirds..no good.
The short term answer can be a cheaper one (1916)or start buying bits and pieces for the subi....the rotary will cost you as much once finished.
Matt [ Hey yes you can do a subie alot cheaper than what i have spent,but spending money on vf24 turbo is a waste of money better to stick with standard turbo and standard subie which has enough hp to scare you.It will still be cheaper then a hypo vw motor.
hey. i just took the product code off of my distributor (the 10 digit one) and stuck it in google. turns out i already have a bosch 009 dizzy. and the guy who sold it to us claimed it to have "extractors". by this would he mean a merged header?. it sure doesnt sound like your normal beetle does put it that way. fairly loud and different sounding. so for the 1916
that would leave, piston and barell set and machining?
then home port job yeah?
please don't take this the wrong way, but if you need google to figure out you have a 009, and you can't really figure out what your exhaust is, then you definitely won't be doing the labor part of an engine conversion yourself.
knowing what i already have and labour is a completely different thing 🙂.
i google'd the product code even though it had '009' in the code because bosch normally stamp their name somewhere on the things and it didnt have a stamp 🙂.
I got the vf24 cheap thats the only reason I got it...And I know the motor will scare the hell out me....I have been in a 12 second bug before....so I am sort of prepared..maybe not!
71 Super....with the headers...if all the 4 pipes meet in the one spot and just go into a large diameter pipe where the exhaust bolts on then they are not merged. Merged headers all arrive in the one spot also but converge in a triangular type collector with a small diameter hole where the exhaust bolts on.... much better power.
a series 4 rx7 front cut (includes everything) goes for about $2600. then allow for the money back from selling gearbox, steering, dash, and all the other stuff u dont need (brakes could be sold or used). and it seems much more reasonable than buying a stock 1600 longblock for $2500.
then add about 3 grand for a transmission. will give u a total of about 6500 (including piping .etc) all up minus wateva i sell my vw motor for. this doesnt seem so unreasonable when u think about it. the only other real thing would be brakes. rear discs perhaps. of which one of seagulls ford conversions looks good
so add about $600 was it?. gives u a total of 7100 - my vw motor.
compare this to a ej20t conversion and in my opinion u are much better off. still got 189-200 hp on tap in stock form.
