Hi Rob its lookin good mate i would have to agree with you on the barzilian repo stuff i dont think i have ever fit anything without haveing to strugle with it.
:beer Kurt
man, if i ever do a bus like that i wanna hire a guy like you (mind you i would never be able to pay for the number of hours that u put in, but your work is staggering!)
Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool
You make it sound so easy?!?!
I'll do Leo as an old school themed bus since he'll be IRS'ed etc.
Thinking he will be solid Pearl Grey (ute original interior panel colour is pearl gray) with mouse grey (lighter) bumpers and highlight panels on the gates. Two black rally stripes (offset on passengers side one wider one thinner), black tonneau cover and black BRMs. Pearl grey interior.
I will do a tilt and canvas for him if I can find some bows to use (or at least some to copy)..
????????????????
RobK
Rob, just incredible, and I think you know now that you are Australia's BUS GOD!!
My query was, that you made a reference to the time that it should have taken, being one day, but how long did it actually take?
It seems in my little bus world, everything takes aaagggeeessssss... 🙂 Mainly because you discover other things along the way, eg your cut and shut B pillar..
Again, fantastic stuff. :thumb
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
Mate your work is excellent.
Nuff said.
Da Time For The Aircooled Revolution Is Upon US.
Brothers & Sisters Lets Hit The Streets, Roll As One. And Feel The Power Of The Aircooled Storm.
sounds good mate. cant wait to see it for real.:thumb
Simply Cruzin'...
Leo's looking heaps better, but the Milk Crate (under Leo, last pic) looks a little secondhand!
Rock On
:thumb
Ain't been there, ain't done that.......yet :P
hey, where would one get the brazilian repro panels?
Rob.
You make it look soooooo easy
I have just discoverd that I have had my bus 3 years next month and still havent got to the paintin stage.
So when are you coming to Adelaide for a working holiday?????
Good work...
Cheers
Dave
I buy the brazilian repro doglegs from Hardings......
They take a LOT of fitting, but easier once you've done a couple and know the tricks and certainly better than trying to make from scratch!
They are often advertised as 'correct' for 64-67 because they have the 'narrow' lip from those years. However, they are made in 3 pieces like original barndoor doglegs (but without the early 'wide' lip) so they are not technically correct for 64-67 either.
Not that I personally care, just comments for the purists. Fairly easy to modify the lip to make wider and 'correct' for the earlier years, can't do much about the 3 piece construction for post barndoor busses though...
Clear as mud eh ??????????????????????
RobK
thanks for that Rob.
ash
:jesus
Mainly a fitting day today.....but did repair the front passengers floor.
Question for Dave Birchall - what is not technically correct about this repair (and how many points is it worth?).
Finished welding in passenger's dogleg too.
Got the doors fitted. Gaps are good (and if I had to move to B pillar around again I was gonna scream!). Top hinge on passenger's compartment door needs another small tweak (about 1mm) to pull the top of the door in flush. You can see the dint in the front cab door, and its sprung as well. Anton vw59 is kindly giving me a cab door to replace this one...
View from side....you can see the top of the passengers compatment door needs to come in just a tad (gotta bend hinge - if you just push it in on the bolts it closes the top gap at the front of the door...).
Remember you should always test fit doors before paint!
I'll tidy this side up and strip it and etch prime, fill and hi-fill prime. Dogleg and the passenger's cab side panel on the driver's side next!
RobK
[ Edited on 23-2-2007 by splitbusaustralia ]
Rob, maybe you could msg me or mail me your exact process with body work.. For example, do you use chemicals?(paint stripper for eg.)
Maybe for those rookies out there, you might want to explain it here even..
For example, not everyone knows what "I'll tidy this side up and strip it and etch prime, fill and hi-fill prime" means.. so, for those project workers out there like yourself, please let us know!
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
what them dog legs lik to fit rob??? you said u pretty much had to re-make them to fit probably and also what area do they cover???
again dude top work!you coming up for the nationals?
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
You have shamed me ito it again Rob.
Will take tomorrow off to get mine in primer at last.
Just found my original reciept, bought it 3 years ago next month.
How time flies when your working on a splitty.
Cheers
Dave
splitbusaustralia wrote:- what is not technically correct about this repair ?
You used steel instead of bog?? :jesus
"You can see the dint in the front cab door, and its sprung as well" - yeah right Rob!
Not worth keeping!
Why dont you throw it out!
(ummm.... what night is garbage night down your way???)
Man - you do TOP work!
What colour you doing this one in???
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
Rob is that Brass i can see ???
what about the MIG welds instead of spots...
Hey its looking great so how many times did you have to moove the pillar......
Barry I am first in line for this one... Shit it looks great Keep it up
Gees c'mon dave! have a another look! It's to do with the pressings! And yes there is brass there - lotsa brass used in the construction of these things I think cos they were ALMOST a special build. Brass is not good and partly explain why most of em are so crusty - the brass remains and the steel is sacrificial! (to rust..)...cut'n'shut or cut'n'opened the pillat twice dave...
Dunno about this year Rhys. Really have nothing to drive. Will be there with Leo next year though....the doglegs are difficult to fit....as they come they leave too much gap under the door. I unpick the top folded edge, straighten them up and refold it to remove about 3mm (and move them up 3 mm). Can't do much more cos refolding narrows the seal channel and then the seal won't fit in. The repro doglegs are complete and comprise the complete structure under the front wheel arch from A pillar to B pillar.
Jim when I have time I'll offer a little explanation and put it in 'paint'n'body' section of tech talk...
RobK
yeah the pressing arnt they yours... and mighty fine as well !!!!
So the ends are not correct but who cars... just as long as the glass is sitting right !!!
i will remember that night for ever!!! i got to ride in your 23 window and hear birchall put down ur bloody windows!!!
ahahahahaahahah u crack me up dave!
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
thats some great work...
keep it up..
cheers
man I'm upset, I have the same mig and I'm getting a better one as I always put down my crap welding to the mig. Your pictures obviously make me question this 🙁 please tell me that you have another mig or a tig :cry
or just a good grinder!!!! :P:P:P i wish i had the hand for welding spose practice makes perfect!
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
Yeah! AND THEN HE DRANK ALL THE BEER TOO!
Nope - only MIG I have. It's had a lot of use and served me well. Fine for all guages of steel found on a bus. I have a stick welder for anything over 3 mm. I weld 1.2mm and above with the A3 setting, most everything else thinner with the A2 setting and might very occassionally go to 1/2 for delicate stuff - wire speed around 5.5 (although mine mightn't run as fast now though as I said its had a lot of use).
You need gas. You need clean metal. You need a good earth. If its sorta 'popping on top' and not penetrating with that 'crackle' your wire speed is too high.
Blowing holes wire speed too low. I always have lotsa gas running (have reg set twice as high as usually recommended - uses more gas $$$ but you get better results with high flow I find...)
????????????????
RobK
So am i right
Rhys thats not nice
mmmm - close but no banana! Think you owe me a crownie on this one!
Third and fourth pressings in from the LHS (door side) should be longer and in fact go back to the edge of the floor. ....
The floor curves up here and my little die thing is flat - if I press em to the right length and then try to bend I get distortion and crinkles - so they're a bit short and where the floor curves has no pressing! I'll probably match the other side to it although the other side is solid at that spot.
mmmmmmm crownie
RobK
rob what kind and how mutch would i be looking at to buy a secent mig welder
🙂
OK OK so you got me on the pressing ,,,, but who cares about Chequer plate any way.
I know with yr Hammer n dolly you can make it look just right..
Just finish MY new car will yar.
Beer is on me in Sydney No problems. mmmm
dave im not nice ................ valla is in mind aswell!!!
anyway u gonna get this off rob are u dave???
shot gun the barney!
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
