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Ford rear disc conversion

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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231314
Another

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231315
Mistake-another

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231317
try again

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231320
Forgot to check its size-just over 50

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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231322
and my jig for drilling

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seagull Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,979 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·

#231349
well done , as for the jig you can use the bearing cap and machine a spigot to fit in the bearing dia for location .

did you get the ford bits new ? or s / hand and recond .
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231368
No-bought everything new.Could probably take a chance with 2nd hand stuff from a wreck but decided since I had to use new rotors,may as well buy the lot new. Will strip it all out now and get the arms blasted and powder coated then renew all the bearings and seals.

seagull Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,979 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·

#231379
what was the cost of the bits please , less disks & hoses
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#231408
Only bought rotors and calipers.Calipers $135ea, pads $40, rotors $70 each.Havn't got hoses yet-they shouldn't be to exxy.

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#239223
Totaled up all the costs for this job-Calipers $270-Rotors$140-full set bearings,seals and O rings$144-Pads $40-New brake hoses $60-and machining I couldn't do $100. All up came to $754 and the calipers brackets,wheel studs and 4 stud drums cost nothing.I now have everything brand new -but if you kept the Ford pattern it would cost only the secondhand bits(probably around $150-$200) and some machining.Machined an end from an axle so can do the all of the next one myself.Now have to get my Country Buggy front stub axles out to do a disc conversion on them so will have everything ready to bolt up once I finish the pan.

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Jenny Officially Full-On Dubber

352 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#240193
nbturbo,
that $144 was that just for the rear bearings/seals/gaskets/O-rings?
Cip1 in the US http://www2.cip1.com/ sell this as a complete kit (eg 2 x inner bearings & seals, 2 x outer bearings & seals, gaskets & O-rings) for $49.95 USD with the current exchange rate that's about $70 AUD plus p/h

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#240233
Yes-2 inner-2 outer bearings-4 seals and 4 O rings.I got the double lip original type seals,but the outer bearings are the dear item-they list at $90 each but got them for $42 each.All bearings were Timken(supposedly Aussie made) The inners were $12 each.That US price is very cheap if all parts are good quality.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#240593
nbturbo wrote:Some more progress for anyone interested.Drilled the aluminium caliper brackets and machined the VW bearing carrier to finish off my rear brake conversion using Ford bits.Have clearance issues with the Porsche mags though.Caliper just clears the rim but the bleed nipple rubs.Will need a 5mm spacer for all to clear(have bolted wheel up with 5mm's of flat washers) In hindsight it would have worked out much cheaper to stay with the Ford stud pattern and sell the Porsche wheels and buy new Ford type mags.I cut the end from a swingaxle tube and drilled the holes 10.5 mm to use as a jig to drill the caliper brackets-just fit it to the bracket,clamp it down where you want it and use it as a jig to drill the bracket.Will do the hand brake cable after I have the suspension arm back in the pan.
Ford have a different offset/bacspace to Porsche etc - with less 'backspace' the wheels will stick out further and may foul the guards. Have you dummied up a bare Ford wheel, nbturbo or seagull (or anyone)? AU or BA Falcon might be a better fit under a Bug's guards as they have more backspace on the wheels, on the same PCD

[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#240612
This conversion only adds about 6mm per side to the original track.On my other car I am using a Sherman set up which also adds about the same to the track.With this car I bought a nearly new set of 17x8's from an ED Ford and had big trouble getting guards to cover the fronts(wanted to keep the early headlights) and needed much wider ones for the rear as well which weren't a problem.I ended up buying Aero guards all round which are less than 20mm wider than standard so had to buy a new set of AU offset 17x7's for the front and 17x8's for the rear.The fronts are perfect for clearance issues with the suspension arms but may just catch the body on full lock in some situations.Will use slightly longer bolts at the front caliper bracket mount.The rears were good too,but clearance between rim and front bolt to attach the swing arm to the pivot was only about 2mm and the rim was not right out on the guard so made up some 12mm spacers-all is good.I could have used early Ford offset on the rear with 17x8's and all would have been OK.Hind sight-a great tool.There is quite a good selection of rims in Ford patterns that you can mix early and late offsets.I have decided that I am going to get another set all round with 17x7 fronts in AU offset and 18x8 at the back in early offset(won't need the spacers with these).Lucky my Mitsubishi van needs a set of new 17x7 up front and 17x8 out back.The first set of ED wheels are going onto my car trailer.I have a mate who went with Commodore stud pattern for his Sherman brakes and he had big trouble getting wheels to fit.He ended up buying some blank 17's from something else and getting them drilled Commodore(may have even been Ford offset rims)I believe using Ford combos you could get quite large wheels under stock guards with no clearance issues.I only used the Porsche wheels because I had them spare and thought a set of Fuchs would look the goods with big offroad tyres mounted on them.Hind sight again-for all the extra costs to make brakes with 5x130 PCD I should have flogged off the Fuchs and stuck with Ford Mags.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#240628
sweet. I want to retain the same wheel offset and size all round and am using 15x6 Commodore as they are almost identical offset etc to the 15x6-inch widened 4-stud Beetle rims I already have (under standard early guards). The availability of a skinny space-saver spare (from a Monaro - will fit in a Beetle spare wheel well) also gives the Commodore PCD approach appeal for me, too. I will have the wheels on the car (over some big-ass vented brakes!) within a month - I will let u know how I go!

[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]

[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]

[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#240654
thats good news-hope it all works OK for you.I thought the Commodore was a different PCD to the early Holdens(Monaro etc) I picked up a rim from an ED Falcon and had the centre welded into a VW rim so I could also get a spare into the original spot-its a 15inch with a 165 original tyre which is very close diameter to my 235.45x17's.Don't know how it will go with the 18's when I get them.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#240656
nbturbo wrote:thats good news-hope it all works OK for you.I thought the Commodore was a different PCD to the early Holdens(Monaro etc) I picked up a rim from an ED Falcon and had the centre welded into a VW rim so I could also get a spare into the original spot-its a 15inch with a 165 original tyre which is very close diameter to my 235.45x17's.Don't know how it will go with the 18's when I get them.
yeah, the Commo is a different offset (more backspace, to mix the terms!) and PCD (metric 120/5) to the old imperial HQ-WBs, Toranas etc. The Monaro I'm referring to is the current Commodore-based model V2-VZ. It has a 15x4-inch spare and a 135 or something tyre (to fit in the short-overhang boot) that I can buy from Holden Spares or the wreckers. No need to change rims/centres then!

[Edited on 2-10-2004 by VWCOOL]

[Edited on 3-10-2004 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#240702
On your wavelength now-thats a good idea using the Monaro wheel.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#240727
😀
Pay your debts, CxxT

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#252991
Finished the job at last.Some info for anybody doing the same as me-I used Ford wheel studs because they are plentiful and cheap but was having trouble with nuts.The porsche wheel needs a nut with a larger seating area than a Ford and a different angle for the taper.I had investigated getting nuts made.Yesterday I found these at the Bridgestone dealer by the bucketload and the diameter of the seating rim is 24mm-1mm less than a Porsche nut but has the 60degree taper.It took me about 10 minutes to remachine the taper to the Porsche angle and now the nut problem is solved.

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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#253009
About 10 minutes to do the 10 0f them and best part they were 80cents each-wouldn't want to guess what a genuine nut would cost.And these have the 1/2 inch by 20 tpi thread in them.

Jenny Officially Full-On Dubber

352 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#256545
nbturbo,
how did you go with your clearance issues? I noticed in the last picture you posted that the bleed niple, handbrake lever and flex hose all seem to be very close/touching the rim.

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#256599
I machined up some spacers from some 6mm aluminium scrap and drilled the holes for a tight fit over the studs.The only worry now is the bleeder nipple-it may get caught up in sticks that could get picked up off road.Will try and find a shorter one or machine a bit off this one.That pic doesn't show the true story.Everything other than the bleeder now has plenty of clearance.check these out

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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#256602
and the new brake hoses cost $30 each.

Jenny Officially Full-On Dubber

352 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#264974
NBturbo
do you have a pic of how you connected up the VW handbrake cable?

nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#265367
Will wait until I get the suspension all bolted in.I have done the cables on the Sherman rear discs though.Machined a bolt where they connect to the lever and had to make spacers where the cables go into the pan.Will be the same for the Ford brakes.will take a shot tomorrow.Brakes on hold for now-back into the fuel injection again.