Just thinking out loud for my next project.
To make a split really go and also reliable as a daily driver I was thinking of fitting a suburu motor, what is everyones opinion.
I will explain myself.
Suburu:
Cheap power.
more powerful than a stock beetle engine.
More reliable than a worked beetle engine
More economical.
Cheaper for parts as you dont have to service as often.
Beetle:
Most blocks are over 30 years old
Too expensive to get a new block and then build a new engine
To get any power out of them you have to modify them and it would cost too much and you risk the reliability
Also if you modify them you increase the fuel costs.
What do you think.
Cheers
Dave
Mate imho i would. Why not. I think if i had space and some spare pennies i would for sure. sooo many pluses. My oval will still be an old motor, well if i ever get round to it.............. Would love one for the mrs's bay.
Da Time For The Aircooled Revolution Is Upon US.
Brothers & Sisters Lets Hit The Streets, Roll As One. And Feel The Power Of The Aircooled Storm.
Dave...if you can have the best of both worlds...then...why not.
go for it:bounce
tssnq.com.au
I've been considering this also, it;s just the sound of the aircooled engine that stops me... and the cash issue 😉
GO FOR IT!
Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool
It is far more benefitable. I've been researching it too.
For what I was investigating, it was going to cost me $7200 for a full type IV engine, or as custom offroad shows, $8800 for a full subaru conversino.
The extra $1000 will get u so much more. Go for the subi.
I've probably made enemies with the purists now, but there is no denying that the subaru engine is better, (well in my opinion and stance). Apparently you can even get aircon installed with the subi engine, well thats what i heard. (Don't hold me to that one though, i haven't researched and clarifyed it yet).
So yeah, thats my opinion.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
If you were planning on putting a new engine in a splitty anyway and weren't concerned with staying stock, then the suby is the way to go. As you said, more power, reliability and economy for the same price or less. Apart from an emotional connection to the aircooled motor, there is no logical reason to stay VW powered. In their day they may have been a very reliable motor in comparison to others, but over the last 30 odd years engine technology has left them far behind.
I'm considering the same thing for one of my fastys for use as a daily.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
I'd guess you'd have to cut a bit of sheetmetal to fit a scooby engine in. What about a rotary? Or screw it, go a subaru flat 6! How about a VW VR6 - one of the best sounding engines I've ever heard.
Jon
mynameischris88 wrote:. Apparently you can even get aircon installed with the subi engine, well thats what i heard. (Don't hold me to that one though, i haven't researched and clarifyed it yet).
So yeah, thats my opinion.
Isn't that what safaris are for.....??..:P
Oh....Snap.....!
Mandie are you going the safari's......SO COOL!!! Just do it girl!! :bounce
Go for it. If its what you want . Then go man go
Marc
If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at anyone else! Because life is to short not to LAUGH
....oh yes....Subaru seems to be the go if you're going to change...if you're wanting to do more than just shows and easy drives then do it Dave!!!
Second hand Suby motors come with the air cond compressor on them ready to plumb up to whatever evaporator you want to fit.
I'd do it Dave, if I was to do another Splitty.
For drivability; definitely. For resale value; not so sure. Could be like the extra window “improvements” people did to panel vans.
I'm thinking about it .
mynameischris88 wrote:It is far more benefitable. I've been researching it too.
For what I was investigating, it was going to cost me $7200 for a full type IV engine, or as custom offroad shows, $8800 for a full subaru conversino.
The extra $1000 will get u so much more. Go for the subi.
I've probably made enemies with the purists now, but there is no denying that the subaru engine is better, (well in my opinion and stance). Apparently you can even get aircon installed with the subi engine, well thats what i heard. (Don't hold me to that one though, i haven't researched and clarifyed it yet).
So yeah, thats my opinion.
$7200 were and who quoted that thats crap my mate who owns a a very secsesful vw shop just built a type 4 that would kick the ass out of a second hand ej 22 the mods include air con, hydraulic tapplets, brand new set of 44idfs fully balanced, big bore kit, ground cam, ported heads with 5mm bigger inlet and exust valves 96 pass oil cooler with thermo fan with oil temp thermo kick in switch in line all brand newberrings rings seals bushs everything that can be was replaced all for $8200 drive in drive out and the owner is still over the moon with his purchase and if you were to put a water cooler in i have no problem but why would you bother with a subi when for less money you could have somthing like a v6 commordore engine even a supercharged one and i would rather put my trust in one of them than a subi i just have herd far to many complates and everyone that i have talked to that owens one say i just want to get ride of it im sick of it let somone else worrie and waste there money on it !!
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
subaru are extremely reliable, and cheap to replace... once the conversions done then engine upgrades are are easy and much cheaper... again in the long run. i.e. If you get a reco'd t4 etc then your up for almost the same price as a subaru conversion.. then when that motor dies then you fork out another $8000 or so... with the conversion you only fork out a couple of Grand for a replacement subaru engine.. say ej22.. and you have plenty of grunt no mods
Yeh...go for the Subaru donk Dave...I've had no troubles with mine..efi/airconditioning and NO oil leaks or water leaks.
tssnq.com.au
A mate of mine just put a Turbo Suby in his Type 3 Ute and it goes like the clappers. As most people who have driven a splitty for any amount of time with stock engine and GB set sup will tell you, you are always pushing that peddle through the floor trying to find extra oomph.
I will build up a type 4 mota eventually in my Bus, but a Suby?. well why not? You will have to cut some inner engine panels though won't you??
I know you won't But PLEASE don't mount a radiator on a bull bar!!! :puke
STEALTH
Bang for buck, the subi is cheaper and more reliable. I've been driving my EJ25 buggy all week this week, and it's as smooth as a big old caddy. Big cubes, lots o torques, beeeeeeeeeeeutiful.
But don't chop up the engine bay and no radiators up front. Retro but neuvo. 😉
why not save driving around in a 30 year old body and just buy a subi. save any hassle at all then! or do you want the VW style without suffering for your art. Get the turbo then you car drive the car that sounds like a sock stuck in a vaccum cleaner.:thumb
Do not go to the Dark Side Luke! :vader
Problem: I got probed by Aliens last night...............and I think I like it!.........E.T call ME.
eirecooled wrote:Get the turbo then you car drive the car that sounds like a sock stuck in a vaccum cleaner.:thumb
lol thats a classic
🙂
I say go the VR6 and be different. From what I've heard it's actually quite compact for a 6 cylinder
Jon
I'm gonna go against the grain here and say dont do it.
If you want to modify something like that, go for something less valuable than a splitty.
What everybody says about the subi motor having more going for it is
probably true, but dont butcher a splitty.
It's a classic vw and it should be air cooled in keeping with the feel of it .
Resale value is another thing but then a good conversion job without too much bodgery could be worth heaps too. A driveable splitty is a nice thing....
Your call but I would do it to a bay and then no guarantee I would use a subi motor anyway.
" You're not a team player "
Theres only one downside to powerful engine in a splitty.. they practically come apart at the seems.. sometimes. They are only hand made, spot welded in most places and since splittys move around a bit they can warp or welds can come apart.. and yes i have seen this. I have seen another bus's roof start splitting from what i think is from overpowered engine. Some go to the extreme of pulling the whole bus apart and re-welding properly. But then again.. if you don't thrash the tits off it all the time and fang around corners you mgiht be OK.
Timmy.dskmember
we are all individuals,the motor of choice is your choice..way up all options...what about 12ohp reliable vw powered wbx engine as an option..water cooled flat 4 efi ..nice ground clearence eg the sump not dragging even when you lower your ride..looks like an aircooled..eg valve covers etc you dont need to cut any body work with plenty of torque to suit a kombi. no adapter plates and speacial clutches..run a stock g/box without the fear of destroying the diff gees sounds like a logical progression ..something like the guys at hannover probably thought when they developed the wbx engine ?????cheers DSK steve
Frenzix might have a point about the warping thing. Kimm from idian won't put anything bigger than a 1640 in a splitter coz he says they just can't take it. And that's from a man not afraid to seriously power things up.
This has been the cause of many a restless night for me too.
I haver 67 bus sitting with the intire back end out.
If I do go the subie conversion, without previous experience to my logic the upgrade in torque would without doubt require at a minimum the latter bay irs/trans hanger rear bracing/type 3 station wagen trailing arms, strenghtened gearbox upgraded brakes ie bay or perhaps an aftermarket torque bar for the existing setup or staight axel conversion? + Engineers certificate. It seems to be a lot of work as opposed to just putting in a type 4 and being done with it. But after all consideration including the echoes of 'you will ruin a classic' by the deranged purists who are never anywhere to be found when you are suck on the size of the road.and always seem to show up in a new water cooled car to talk vw's. I love the look of the bulli and I want to USE it, but I dont want to lose my hair over it. The thought of Having to use sign language to speak to someone one foot away (hydralic tappets included),Cranking up the stero just to make out the bass line of a tune, Its crap.
We aren't tootling around the villages of central Europe. We want to take and often do drive these buses 1000 kms or more in one sitting in the height of summer. I've looked at the math 4:1 thats the cooling efficency of water to air. Sure aircoolers are sturdy little units and as much a political and sensible decision at the time of its use and developement.
Great for the Vehicle they were intended for, 'beetles'.
Everything changes. Fuel prices, parts prices technology standards.And here's a little more contraversy something I use to tip me over the side of water cooled.
If the 3rd Reich and its MI complex had prevailed The Fuhrer would have spent the latter part of his life inspecting his subaru engine plants in Japan. 😀
The WBX is a good compromise. Or a type 4 is pretty logical. easily reversible.
I agree with the body not handling it. Even on my bug, a lot of the spot welds have popped over 40-50 odd years. There was even a small shear through the sheet metal near one particular bit. I just seam welded and/or plugged the joins.
Jon
