dangerous wrote:The best I can hope for in the current trim is a pass in the 11.4s,
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
1 attachment · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
2715cc Pauter Build-up(New stuff most days!)
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
LOL!
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Hey bro....Its tough to paint the verandah at night!choppa wrote:Old scool , new scool!
Night scool is the best
yeah
And why arnt you painting the verandah humpty
instead of wasting bandwidth on here
u finished the roof yet? ;-)
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Got my pushrods back from Rene in Adelaide and just need to assemble them (& the engine!)
I have chamfered some new bearings to clear the radii of the crank.
These are normal 351 main bearings that are narrowed and chamfered in the lathe, and drilled to match the oil passages in the case.
I have chamfered some new bearings to clear the radii of the crank.
These are normal 351 main bearings that are narrowed and chamfered in the lathe, and drilled to match the oil passages in the case.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Are those tapered Ali PRods Dave?
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
I made up a split jig to hold the bearings in the lathe without damaging them (photo later). I then narrowed
them as required and turned a 30 degree chamfer to clear the 4mm radii.
In these photos you can also see the roll pin that I fitted to stop the bearings from shifting laterally.
In theory the crush fit in the tunnel should stop this, but in my blown combo this was a problem
that lead to radius riding of the bearing as it shifted along the tunnel.
them as required and turned a 30 degree chamfer to clear the 4mm radii.
In these photos you can also see the roll pin that I fitted to stop the bearings from shifting laterally.
In theory the crush fit in the tunnel should stop this, but in my blown combo this was a problem
that lead to radius riding of the bearing as it shifted along the tunnel.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
The pushrods are MEGA wall (4mm thick wall!) chrome-moly that I taper turned and then had heat treated to 40rc, by rene in Adelaide...he's a Volksy dude so I got special service.
I posted some info on these in the tech section I think.
Oh. My mistake...it's right here in the dragracing section.
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
I posted some info on these in the tech section I think.
Oh. My mistake...it's right here in the dragracing section.
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Here is the jig I made to chamfer the main bearings.
The bearings are bolted into this jig, and then set up in the lathe
and each shell is chamfered as required ...30 degree angle seems to be best comprimise for clearance and support on the back for heat transfer.
The bearings are bolted into this jig, and then set up in the lathe
and each shell is chamfered as required ...30 degree angle seems to be best comprimise for clearance and support on the back for heat transfer.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Here are the rod bearings all chamfered.
I did this with a plunge cut in our rod boring machine.
I did this with a plunge cut in our rod boring machine.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Here you can see how wide these 454 chev bearings were.
All that needs to be done now is the de-burring, and final check of the oil clearance.
All that needs to be done now is the de-burring, and final check of the oil clearance.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Very clever stuff!... How the hell do you come up with this sorta stuff?
Silly question I know.... Its what you do.... It still blows me away though Dave!
Silly question I know.... Its what you do.... It still blows me away though Dave!
tassupervee That really hurts doesnt it!
1,171 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
Ahhhh....... its the old adage Humpty........"necessity is the mother of invention"
L8tr
E
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
After mounting the bearings into the rods, and tensioning the rod bolts to the correct spec,
(in this case, 75 ftlbs, with moly lube to achieve .006" stretch)
I measure each conrod journal on the crankshaft.
And then for each one, I lock the micrometer, and then set the dial bore guage, to zero on that mic' setting.
This will be done for every journal and its corresponding rod.
I will then insert this guage into the mounted bearings to see what clearance I have.
(in this case, 75 ftlbs, with moly lube to achieve .006" stretch)
I measure each conrod journal on the crankshaft.
And then for each one, I lock the micrometer, and then set the dial bore guage, to zero on that mic' setting.
This will be done for every journal and its corresponding rod.
I will then insert this guage into the mounted bearings to see what clearance I have.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
This first photo shows the head if the bore guage being inserted into the mounted bearings.
On the other end of this is the dial guage that will tell me the clearance that I have on the journal.
In this case I have .003".
This crankshaft and conrod was originally set up to run in my blown combo, so this oil clearance is larger than I need but acceptable.
For this type of application I would prefer 2.25 to 2.5 thou of clearance.
This can be corrected by using one bearing shell from a .001" set
(chev stuff has all sorts of sizes available for custom tayloring oil clearances),
thus reducing the oil clearance by half a thou.
Or I can mount up some .010" bearings and regrind the crank
to give the desired oil clearance at the new undersize....but that would be unneccesary
in this case and a lot of work for less than a thou.
UPDATE!... I found another brand of bearing in the standard size that gave me a little less clearance
so now the oil clearance on all of the big-end journals is 2.4 and 2.7 thou....just where I would like it.
[ Edited on 18-4-2006 by dangerous ]
On the other end of this is the dial guage that will tell me the clearance that I have on the journal.
In this case I have .003".
This crankshaft and conrod was originally set up to run in my blown combo, so this oil clearance is larger than I need but acceptable.
For this type of application I would prefer 2.25 to 2.5 thou of clearance.
This can be corrected by using one bearing shell from a .001" set
(chev stuff has all sorts of sizes available for custom tayloring oil clearances),
thus reducing the oil clearance by half a thou.
Or I can mount up some .010" bearings and regrind the crank
to give the desired oil clearance at the new undersize....but that would be unneccesary
in this case and a lot of work for less than a thou.
UPDATE!... I found another brand of bearing in the standard size that gave me a little less clearance
so now the oil clearance on all of the big-end journals is 2.4 and 2.7 thou....just where I would like it.
[ Edited on 18-4-2006 by dangerous ]
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
My god, the details! What tools you have at you disposal! Must make engine buid-ups a 'snap'... You know Im kidding.... This is all very helpful stuff for the rest of us mere mortals... Keep it coming Dave...
71EJVan Officially Full-On Dubber
352 posts · joined Aug 2005 ·
And I thought that when I used plastiguage on my rods and crank I had it going on.
We are not worthy!
We are not worthy!
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Craig Paton Wolfsburg Wizard
620 posts · joined Apr 2004 ·
Dave
I've been reading this post and I see that you will be building a 930 trans at some later date.
Are the 930 trans a relitively slow box in the gear change?
IF so then how are you going to get around that?
My friend up here races his 930 T and he finds the change slower than he would like!
Any suggestions would be most welcome..!
I've been reading this post and I see that you will be building a 930 trans at some later date.
Are the 930 trans a relitively slow box in the gear change?
IF so then how are you going to get around that?
My friend up here races his 930 T and he finds the change slower than he would like!
Any suggestions would be most welcome..!
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Albins makes a dog ring kit for his aftermarket gears.
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
ouch!
Craig Paton Wolfsburg Wizard
620 posts · joined Apr 2004 ·
Thanks Dave! Can it be used on the street?dangerous wrote:Albins makes a dog ring kit for his aftermarket gears.
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Hmm , couldnt tell you to be honest Craig.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Craig Paton Wolfsburg Wizard
620 posts · joined Apr 2004 ·
dangerous wrote:Hmm , couldnt tell you to be honest Craig.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
I passed the info onto Jim, he'll be calling Ivan.
[ Edited on 13-4-06 by Craig Paton ]
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
tassupervee That really hurts doesnt it!
1,171 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
Yer dogboxes are a bit of a ,,,wellll,,,,, dog actually at much less than full noise.
Clonking and clunking into gear, gotta match the revs on downshift just right.......bah!
But, you can live with them if you have a good constitution!
L8tr
E
Clonking and clunking into gear, gotta match the revs on downshift just right.......bah!
But, you can live with them if you have a good constitution!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Today I mounted up the new main bearings into the case to measure the oil clearance.
Just because they are new, and the clearance was checked with the old bearings,
doesn't mean that it will be OK....it must be checked.
The bolts holding the cap down are torqued down to 40ftlbs, followed by the cross bolts, also to 40ftlbs.
The sides of these caps,( but not the parting faces), are coated in a thin layer of never- seize
to prevent the cap from gaulling as it is tapped home with a plastic mallet.
Also the threads, and faces of the nuts and washers also have a film of never- seize to get consistent and accurate clamping of the fasteners.
Just because they are new, and the clearance was checked with the old bearings,
doesn't mean that it will be OK....it must be checked.
The bolts holding the cap down are torqued down to 40ftlbs, followed by the cross bolts, also to 40ftlbs.
The sides of these caps,( but not the parting faces), are coated in a thin layer of never- seize
to prevent the cap from gaulling as it is tapped home with a plastic mallet.
Also the threads, and faces of the nuts and washers also have a film of never- seize to get consistent and accurate clamping of the fasteners.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Here, I am measuring each main bearing on the crankshaft,
and then setting the bore guage to this micrometer size.
and then setting the bore guage to this micrometer size.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
I then insert the bore guage into the mounted bearing
and see what the clearance is.
In this case 2.8 thou.
and see what the clearance is.
In this case 2.8 thou.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
This process is repeated for each of the other main bearings.
The oil clearances varied between 2.5 and 2.8 thou.
The oil clearances varied between 2.5 and 2.8 thou.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
With everything washed up and layed out, the assembly can begin.
Assembling all the parts to long-block stage takes about 10 hours.
With the bearings in place, the crankshaft can be sat in place.
Assembling all the parts to long-block stage takes about 10 hours.
With the bearings in place, the crankshaft can be sat in place.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Next, the caps have some never-seize applied to their sides to prevent gualling as they are fitted.
Once the are tapped into place, they are tensioned down to 40 ft-lbs.
Once the are tapped into place, they are tensioned down to 40 ft-lbs.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
The caps also have a cross bolt that clamps the cap in from the sides.
It has an O-ring installed under it's head, and is fitted and tensioned to 40 ft-lbs also, after tightening the studs.
It has an O-ring installed under it's head, and is fitted and tensioned to 40 ft-lbs also, after tightening the studs.
2 attachments · Log in to view
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.