I got my camera a little late so the crank is already in place.
(have since removed it and added a photo)
It is an 82.5mm (3.25") stroke with 351 Ford main bearings,
and Big Block Chevy conrod bearings.
The crank started out as a piece of 4340 bar that was 150mm diameter,
and 400mm long. It took 90 hours to make.
The bore is 102.36mm (4.03") Ross pistons, and cylinders that I made
from cast iron.
[ Edited on 29-12-2005 by dangerous ]
[ Edited on 8-1-2006 by dangerous ]
[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
The rods are Pauter "Blower" rods and are 5.85" long
with 350Chev/308Holden gudgeon pin size, (.927").
That's about 23.5mm, which is in between type 1 (22mm) and type 4 (24mm).
The rods are type 1 width on the big end.
[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
All the headstuds are VW 10mm except the top two
corners, which are 12mm ARPM.
They all have to be cut to the right length.
VW used 10mm studs from the beginning so they come
in lengths with about 10 or 12mm steps, and are more
than strong enough if you can fit them next to the cylinder.
dangerous ·
Here are the finished pistons.
The inlet notch is .300" deep and the exhaust is .200" deep.
These pistons don't allow any more depth, so this governs how much I could flycut the head for compression, based on the piston to valve clearance with this camshaft.
The notches are about 12.5cc.
Pistons are setup flush with the top of the barrel and there
is a .055" step in the head to provide the deck clearance.
[ Edited on 29-12-2005 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
These are the Titanium valves I will be using.
Inlet is 2.125" (54mm), and exhaust is 1.6" (40.6mm).
They are sitting on the flywheel I made to suit the 930 tranny.
I made another flywheel to suit the VW tranny, so I can test the engine in the "Mule"...pan car.
dangerous ·
Some people use clay to check the piston to valve clearance, which works well if you are just checking.
I use this method so I can tell exactly how much I have.
In this case, .066".
dangerous ·
The ratio will be 12.9:1.
Head CCs average 44cc including the .055 step.
Notch CCs average13cc.
One cylinder is 679cc.
So, (679+44+13) divided by (44+13) = 12.9
pete wood ·
you d'man. what an awesome build up. I can't believe you made half of the components. :thumb
dangerous ·
I am using 1.6 rockers on the inlet, for .710" lift,
and 1.4 on the exhaust for .625" lift.
This check was done using light checking springs, so
with heavy springs and lash, actual lift will be less.
The comparison with VW 1.1 rockers shows how strong they are.
Of interest is that the VW rockers on heavy shafts were the
ones on my 2827cc blown motor that ran the 9.76!
dangerous ·
Look closer....not clean enough!
Stanley ·
Nice work Dave...blown away by the fact you make your own parts.
dangerous ·
Here is some photos of the cam and lifters of the roller type.
This cam has 286 degrees of duration at .050" and a 110 degree lobe centre.
[ Edited on 8-1-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
Cam bolts into case from the underside with three caps.
Lifters go in from the outside like a type 4 but have a roll pin to stop them turning.
The pushrods are made from 4130 cromoly tubing that
is .375" outside diameter and .058" wall thickness.
These are 292mm long.
[ Edited on 7-1-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
Here is the plate that bolts onto the back of the case with the oil seal in it.
These come extra thick so you can make any type of flywheel.
Mine is extra thin, now because of the crank and flywheel that I had in a previous WBX case.
It is held to the back of the case with countersunk allen screws.
dangerous ·
Because I machined the engine plate down so thin, I have to attatch the lid so that there is strength enough for fitment to the engine stand.
Dasdubber ·
Holy moly Dave - that is certainly some serious hardware there! Thanks for shaing all the pics and info in this and the other threads - I am certainly learning a lot!
dangerous ·
After washing and drying everything , I got out some tools that I made to assemble the springs on the heads.
Normal spring compressors have a little trouble compressing these monsters, so I do it on the milling machine.
Here is the tool I made that goes between the retainer and the chuck on the mill.
dangerous ·
I set the head up at a 9 degree angle and put a resin plug under the valves so that they dont drop down.
Then the spring is compressed with the tool over the retainer, and the collets are fitted.
dangerous ·
Prior to final assembly, I have back cut the valves at a 30 degree angle for better flow at low lifts.
I also radiused the spring's base to stop it riding on the radius in the spring pocket.
[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
These are the big collets that I am using
dangerous ·
Once the springs are installed, the travel is checked on the mill using the digital readout, to get .750" travel.
This ensures that I have .060" extra room over the valve lift of .690".
With this installed height, these springs have 220 lbs of seat tension, and 590 lbs at full lift.
dangerous ·
Another view of the spring Installing tool
shiftyvw ·
Those keepers look like they sit very high in the retainers, is that normal on those heads? A modified G clamp works nice for a valve spring compressor too. Its a bit lighter than a mill when you need to service heads at the track.
2443TT ·
Note to self... Don't read this thread again as i'll be tempted to build an autocraft turbo engine for my street car.... And I know i'll never be able to afford a gearbox that will hold together for that...
Seriously Awesome stuff! I especially liked the resin plug idea and the too you use to allow you to fit in the retainer locks. Much better than a rag packed inside the combustion chamber when compressing the springs with a tool that bolts onto the head studs.
dangerous ·
Collets are minus .100" Exceldyne units.
The extra material is there because the ring that locates in the valve stem is high, and it needs more support.
Doug Sweetman ·
holy moly....... this is serious VW engine porn 🙂
What a fantastic buildup..... I assume this is the new all motor engine Dave ?
I've never seen one of those Pauter cases in closeup before, its a pretty serious bit of kit....
Roller rockers, roller lifters..... all good stuff
What are the hopes for this is terms of torque and hp ?
Craig Paton ·
Dave
With your talent and skills, should get into manufacturing Volksie bits!
Just need a financial backer, factory with all the latest machinery and an export market to the States!
"DANGEROUS" forged chromoly cranks etc.!!!!
Be nice to get decent Quality Forged 4130 Stroker cranks out there again!
dangerous ·
I am hoping that this engine is about 40hp better than the one currently in the car.
Head flow is less but the cam is 20 degrees longer, and it has .055" deck instead of the .125 that the current
engine has (because of past damage and needed piston to valve clearance).
Hopefully this will push the car closer to the Tens and 120mph that I was hoping for
with the dunger that is in the car now.
The engine in these posts is the old blown engine transformed for N/A use.
dangerous ·
Whilst inspecting the rings, I found some damage to the expander, so will have to fit some others.
This may have happened from poor assembly techniques or fatigue, either way they are NFG and have to be replaced.
dangerous ·
As you can see by comparison to the good one, the end has broken away.
This will result in reduced wall tension, and may allow oil to contaminate the air/fuel charge.
This can cause detonation.
dangerous ·
On a more positive note the heads have been lubed up, and assembled, and are ready to fit.
shiftyvw ·
just out of curiosity, do you have flow figures on those heads?
dangerous ·
Yes, at what lift and pressure drop would you like?
shiftyvw ·
how about 25in at a couple of points to 650? whatever figures you have, doesnt really matter, as long as they arent top secret!
dangerous ·
Still looking, but heads on the car currently,
@.250" =172
@.500" =259
@.650" =285
@.750" =294 cfm @ 25"
dangerous ·
I actually flowed them at 10" so these are converted figures.
My heads as pictured above flow less, but I havn't flowed them since I fly cut the crap
out of them for N/A use...but they were 10cfm@10" behind at .750".
This difference is not as great at lower lifts.
dangerous ·
Found old figures...@.650 =272cfm@25"
@.750=279cfm@25" 0
shiftyvw ·
cool, thanks. Higher than what i was expecting!
dangerous ·
I am doing this assembly in my lunch time so not much progress...especially with all these head studs.
Barrels go on with the fitted piston, then circlips in and I use a grey silicone sealant under their base.
I like to fit the piston to the cylinder on the bench, before it goes on the engine.
I put never seize on the threads before the head goes on, because it is so messy.
Always use some type of lube on the threads.
I also quickly checked the conrod bolt tension (75ft-lbs in this case), before the bore kit was fitted.
[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
A few of the head nuts on these and other brands of head are inaccessable with normal sockets,
so these tools are made to get to the upper and lower nuts.
Studs that have 10mm threads are torqued to 25 lbs and the 12mm top corners are at 30lbs.
dangerous ·
These photos show the extra headstud that is under the rockers, which uses a VW 15mm sized spanner.
And the other 12point nut is in the rocker area and is a 1/2 inch socket size. It is a tight squeeze and requiresthe washer and socket to be clearanced.
dangerous ·
With the heads tensioned down, I can double check that the pushrods and rockers on No1 are all as intended.
I set the tappets at zero by checking that the pushrod turns freely, and that I can feel no clearance.
This MUST be done when the engine is cold, and all the other rocker assemblies are on the engine
to even out load on the cam. This method can catch you out if the weather's temp changes, but usually
as soon as the engine warms up (steel based pushrods), the clearance re-appears.
At operating temp the clearance opens up to .016 to .020" !
dangerous ·
With the tappets set I rotated the engine over full lift and then watched through the inlet port
as the engine passed TDC on the overlap to see that indeed the inlet valve actually
passes below the top surface of the piston in the notch.
Stanley ·
nice work Dave...keep the pics coming
dangerous ·
Today at lunch I finished fitting the heads, and double checked the rocker and pushrod geometry.
The adjuster screw needs to be inline with the pushrod, when the valve is at half lift.
What I also noticed was that the heavy springs have (due to flex) taken alot of lift away.
The inlet had .710" with the soft springs, and now has .675" with the heavy ones.
Likewise, the exhaust is down to .605" from .625".
This is common with these springs, and the flex is in the pushrod, and (believe it!) those rocker arms.
dangerous ·
Here is the pushrod angle at full lift.
At zero lift this angle should be about the same, only the othe way.
dangerous ·
Also worth noting is that when I calculated the pushrod length, I had the adjuster screw only one turn from
under the rocker arm so that there was a minimum hanging out, but still had some adjustment.
dangerous ·
Here is the engine head to head...it's no show-piece but I am a go-boy not a show-boy....yeah, should have
re-painted the cylinders!
Pushrod tubes are Pauter and use a water boxer seal at the case end and type one on the head end.
[ Edited on 13-1-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
The ugly patch welded into the lid was from the old blower days and is a war injury from
a pair Carrillo rods that came out...well, the top half of them anyhow.
DIY-DUB ·
it hurts just thinkin how much this would be costing you, looks great, thanks for the fast reply also, figured the time had something to do with it👍
dangerous ·
Today I fitted the pushrod tubes and reassembled the rockers and push rods.
dangerous ·
The front cover contains the dizzy drive ( the only Volksy part other than the headstuds),
and has to have that, and the pulley seal fitted before instalation.
There is also an 'O' ring at the main gallery where the full flow return would be.
dangerous ·
Well actually, the pulley was cool, but the damn degree ring was a night mare.
After marking out TDC and BDC I went to fit the degree ring and found that it was not flat enough
for the sticky back to hold. I suppose I cant complain, it was pretty cheap from Bergs (oxymoron?!)
I ended up Arylditeing it on and used clamps that I had to keep moving around, lest they stick to the pulley too.
Anyhow, the thinners that was supposed to activate the sticky back was used to wipe all the excess glue off me, my tools, and the pulley.
Once the pulley was on, I tensioned it up to 150 ftlbs.
Looks pretty good, but not worth the 10hours and materials needed to do the job!
dangerous ·
So here is where I am at today.
Next week will have the rocker covers on, and then the
rest of the parts will be robbed off the engine that is in the car at the moment.
2443TT ·
As Reub would say... HORN! That looks wild... I predict a new all motor record that will have the honda's crying no fair for years to come!
[ Edited on 14-1-2006 by iswinkels ]
dangerous ·
Today I sealed up the rocker area with these massive rocker covers.
I also fitted a dunger dizzy to stop the drive winding out.
The flywheel is actually a modified 36 hp unit with the ring gear moved out a little
and some welding to form a location recess on the back.
The bolt pattern is a 3" pcd the same as most ford 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
I tensioned it down to 75 ftlbs.
[ Edited on 16-1-2006 by dangerous ]
56astro ·
Ya better be wearing a harness, and carrying a torch when ya walk past those inlet ports
Very interesting thread, thanks
Doug Sweetman ·
lol... I love the fact that all these thousands of $$ and hundreds of hp are all transmitted through a (modified) 36hp flywheel 🙂 love the irony...
13BVW ·
:P im drooling good to see some people aren't afraid to show what they have
and how to do it !!!!
dangerous ·
Welcome to the forum Andrew.
speedster356 ·
Wow, fantastic work and great post Dave....:thumb
dangerous ·
All finshed at home awaiting fitment.
Dasdubber ·
Excellent work Dave - is the engine residing safely in your walk-in-wardrobe lke a lot of your other parts!?
dangerous ·
Over the next couple of weeks I will show the install of this engine
in the car in prep for the mini-jam on the 25th of March.
humpty ·
I absolutely hate you Dave!!!
Its just not fair that one guy can have all the skills, tools and knowledge (and the guts to spend the moola!) to do what you are doing!
I am NOT worthy!
[ Edited on 9-3-2006 by humpty ]
dangerous ·
Thanks for the compliments (I think?!) Simon.
The dollars have always been a little at a time, although the case was the most expensive about 10 years ago.
The engine in the car for the most recent runs was a worn out speedway deal that I bought as a spare and freshened up.
I bought a whole bunch of stuff second hand, for a good price and was able to sell most of it off to fix up the engine. Over 15 years I have probably averaged spending of 7000 dollars per year on parts ...gee that adds up!
humpty ·
Over 15 years I have probably averaged spending of 7000 dollars per year on parts ...gee that adds up!
105,000! Yikes!
Yeah it does add up Dave... But it is pretty cheap motorsport really... Especially considering the level at which you participate!
No doubt your skills keep the cost down...
And yes, that previous comment from me was most definately a compliment...
tassupervee ·
Hehehehehe well heres some more ideas for you straight line guys to unload you hard earned readies on!
Enjoy
L8tr
E
humpty ·
Oh stop it TSV!
Now your just teasing!
U should stick that in your FV!!!
LOL
tassupervee ·
Oh dear!
Ahh kay, im just funnin but its a bit of work dun U think.
Im sure "Dangerous Dave" will admire it.
Imagine rolling up to the local F-V races with that iron poking out of the bodywork!!!!!!!
Dunno how long it would last on a circuit car but it would sure get the attention!!!
L8tr
E
andrewmurphy ·
Dave. Am very much looking forward to seeing you in Sydney racing one day. It has been a while. Thank you for going to the effort for all of us by taking these photos and telling your story.
Andrew
modulus ·
Hi Dave,
Remarkable stuff.
Just one clarification; with the flex in the pushrods and rocker arms, is the valve-piston clearance 66 thou or is it now 66 thou plus 20-something due to reduced lift?
tia
dangerous ·
Hi Andrew and Peter,
Thanks Andrew, will be down there soon...hopefully in the next year...I know you!
Yes Peter, the flex would let the clearance open up, but the flex is probably not consistant.
The closest point was at about half lift, so at that point the spring pressure would not cause as much flex as at full lift
and therefore could not be gambled as more saftey margin.
Currently, I have had a major holdup with this engine due to the input shaft bottoming out in the back
of the crank...every one likes carnage stories, so will post some info as I find it. Sad news for time and dollars!
dangerous ·
Well, I spent hours last Saturday trying to get this new engine to Idle and run nice,
and despite it sounding quite responsive, it would just die at anything below 2000 rpm.
Any how, next day, after checking all the basics, I dropped the filter
and found a huge amount of metalic particals in the oil. DOH!
Well, here is the problem.
Being that everything in this engine is custom made, the input shaft from the tranny
was bottoming out in the back of the crank.
Because the engine was thrusting forward, aluminium has been scraped of all sorts of things inside,
and flushed through the engine.
dangerous ·
Despite the dissappointment, there is not alot to replace other than bearings and seals.
There is probably about 20 hours of work to get it back in the car.
The crankshaft, thank God, is just in need of a polish, but the main and rod bearings
are Ford 351 and 454 Chev respectively, and just need to be narrowed and chamfered.
Kind of lucky in a way that I found this after only a few minutes of running time
...could have been alot more traumatic.
But I have still got a good twitch in my eye.
dangerous ·
For now I will leave this engine alone and concentrate on getting the mule back in the car for the Mini-Jam on the 25th of this month.
I hate rushing things, but gotta get as many Volksies out there.
[ Edited on 14-3-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
Here is a taste for those that might like to come out and support the Volksies on the 25th.
humpty ·
Bugger!....
Lucky you still have the 'mule' then!
Go get'em Dave!
Doug Sweetman ·
That crank is a work of art...... gotta admire a bloke that knows his engines as intimately as you do Dave.
tassupervee ·
What a pain in the arse Dave. Damn! I bet that twitch in the eye is annoying.......
ur right tho. better the thing shit itself in the workshop than out at the strip.
Damn again.
L8tr
E
dangerous ·
Got that other engine bolted back in and went for a test pass at willowbank in preparation for next week end.
11.53@115.4mph...car is consistent but not the driver.
The 60 foot time was a bit ordinary at 1.65. My best is 1.56 with this combo.
tassupervee ·
Well, practise make perfect......................😀😀
Good luck.
L8tr
E
humpty ·
I can't imagine what it would be like to run the quarter in low 11's! Especially in a car that is not too far removed from a streetcar.... Well a car that is closer to a streetcar than your tube car is anyway! 😁
What are you aiming for with the new donk once the details are sorted?
Best of luck Dave.... We are all watching!
No pressure!!!
tassupervee ·
humpty wrote:........in a car that is not too far removed from a streetcar.... Well a car that is closer to a streetcar than your tube car is anyway! 😁
Oi, just a minute.....my car is a tubeframe car....
mwaaaaaaaaaah...... (sniff sniff)!:kiss
LOL
L8tr
E
dangerous ·
The car that I am currently running is a pan car with a total weigt of 820KG to it is a bit heavyer that a standard '60 model.
It has fiberglass guards and F&R lids, but with the cage and bus tranny, and steel wheels, it is a heavy weight by VW drag racing standards.
The best I can hope for in the current trim is a pass in the 11.4s, but with some weight removed, and the new engine, I hope to be in the 10's with legal All Motor weight of about 800kg (1750lbs is minimum).
Problem is, Andra wants another $220 for the next licence, and then some more to tech the car, so I am in no hurry, except to feed my brain with info and experience of all this N/A tinkering.
humpty ·
So what happened to the rims you use to run?
Spindle mounts and Bathursts wasn't it?
I've heard that some FGlass panel aint so light... Have you ever weighed that gear?
Your doing it the right way Dave.... Slow'n'steady. More 'power' to you!
dangerous ·
Future plans are aluminium wheels and back to steel guards, which are about the same weight.
All Motor class requires four wheel brakes so the old wheels, were sold off to buy food.
I really liked those Bathhurst style wheels (who cares what people think) and have ordered a new set of four, with charcole accents...mmmm nostalgia!
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:I really liked those Bathhurst style wheels (who cares what people think) and have ordered a new set of four, with charcole accents...mmmm nostalgia!
LOL... Your totally an old school guy huh Dave?
choppa ·
Old scool , new scool!
Night scool is the best
yeah
And why arnt you painting the verandah humpty
instead of wasting bandwidth on here
dangerous ·
I never used to be old school...but then time flys by.... and then you are (with out knowing).
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
dangerous wrote:The best I can hope for in the current trim is a pass in the 11.4s,
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
humpty ·
LOL!
humpty ·
choppa wrote:Old scool , new scool!
Night scool is the best
yeah
And why arnt you painting the verandah humpty
instead of wasting bandwidth on here
Hey bro....Its tough to paint the verandah at night!
u finished the roof yet? ;-)
dangerous ·
Got my pushrods back from Rene in Adelaide and just need to assemble them (& the engine!)
I have chamfered some new bearings to clear the radii of the crank.
These are normal 351 main bearings that are narrowed and chamfered in the lathe, and drilled to match the oil passages in the case.
humpty ·
Are those tapered Ali PRods Dave?
dangerous ·
I made up a split jig to hold the bearings in the lathe without damaging them (photo later). I then narrowed
them as required and turned a 30 degree chamfer to clear the 4mm radii.
In these photos you can also see the roll pin that I fitted to stop the bearings from shifting laterally.
In theory the crush fit in the tunnel should stop this, but in my blown combo this was a problem
that lead to radius riding of the bearing as it shifted along the tunnel.
dangerous ·
The pushrods are MEGA wall (4mm thick wall!) chrome-moly that I taper turned and then had heat treated to 40rc, by rene in Adelaide...he's a Volksy dude so I got special service.
I posted some info on these in the tech section I think.
Oh. My mistake...it's right here in the dragracing section.
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
Here is the jig I made to chamfer the main bearings.
The bearings are bolted into this jig, and then set up in the lathe
and each shell is chamfered as required ...30 degree angle seems to be best comprimise for clearance and support on the back for heat transfer.
dangerous ·
Here are the rod bearings all chamfered.
I did this with a plunge cut in our rod boring machine.
dangerous ·
Here you can see how wide these 454 chev bearings were.
All that needs to be done now is the de-burring, and final check of the oil clearance.
humpty ·
Very clever stuff!... How the hell do you come up with this sorta stuff?
Silly question I know.... Its what you do.... It still blows me away though Dave!
tassupervee ·
Ahhhh....... its the old adage Humpty........"necessity is the mother of invention"
L8tr
E
dangerous ·
After mounting the bearings into the rods, and tensioning the rod bolts to the correct spec,
(in this case, 75 ftlbs, with moly lube to achieve .006" stretch)
I measure each conrod journal on the crankshaft.
And then for each one, I lock the micrometer, and then set the dial bore guage, to zero on that mic' setting.
This will be done for every journal and its corresponding rod.
I will then insert this guage into the mounted bearings to see what clearance I have.
dangerous ·
This first photo shows the head if the bore guage being inserted into the mounted bearings.
On the other end of this is the dial guage that will tell me the clearance that I have on the journal.
In this case I have .003".
This crankshaft and conrod was originally set up to run in my blown combo, so this oil clearance is larger than I need but acceptable.
For this type of application I would prefer 2.25 to 2.5 thou of clearance.
This can be corrected by using one bearing shell from a .001" set
(chev stuff has all sorts of sizes available for custom tayloring oil clearances),
thus reducing the oil clearance by half a thou.
Or I can mount up some .010" bearings and regrind the crank
to give the desired oil clearance at the new undersize....but that would be unneccesary
in this case and a lot of work for less than a thou.
UPDATE!... I found another brand of bearing in the standard size that gave me a little less clearance
so now the oil clearance on all of the big-end journals is 2.4 and 2.7 thou....just where I would like it.
[ Edited on 18-4-2006 by dangerous ]
humpty ·
My god, the details! What tools you have at you disposal! Must make engine buid-ups a 'snap'... You know Im kidding.... This is all very helpful stuff for the rest of us mere mortals... Keep it coming Dave...
71EJVan ·
And I thought that when I used plastiguage on my rods and crank I had it going on.
We are not worthy!
Craig Paton ·
Dave
I've been reading this post and I see that you will be building a 930 trans at some later date.
Are the 930 trans a relitively slow box in the gear change?
IF so then how are you going to get around that?
My friend up here races his 930 T and he finds the change slower than he would like!
Any suggestions would be most welcome..!
dangerous ·
Albins makes a dog ring kit for his aftermarket gears.
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
humpty ·
ouch!
Craig Paton ·
dangerous wrote:Albins makes a dog ring kit for his aftermarket gears.
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
Thanks Dave! Can it be used on the street?
dangerous ·
Hmm , couldnt tell you to be honest Craig.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
Craig Paton ·
dangerous wrote:Hmm , couldnt tell you to be honest Craig.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
I passed the info onto Jim, he'll be calling Ivan.
[ Edited on 13-4-06 by Craig Paton ]
tassupervee ·
Yer dogboxes are a bit of a ,,,wellll,,,,, dog actually at much less than full noise.
Clonking and clunking into gear, gotta match the revs on downshift just right.......bah!
But, you can live with them if you have a good constitution!
L8tr
E
dangerous ·
Today I mounted up the new main bearings into the case to measure the oil clearance.
Just because they are new, and the clearance was checked with the old bearings,
doesn't mean that it will be OK....it must be checked.
The bolts holding the cap down are torqued down to 40ftlbs, followed by the cross bolts, also to 40ftlbs.
The sides of these caps,( but not the parting faces), are coated in a thin layer of never- seize
to prevent the cap from gaulling as it is tapped home with a plastic mallet.
Also the threads, and faces of the nuts and washers also have a film of never- seize to get consistent and accurate clamping of the fasteners.
dangerous ·
Here, I am measuring each main bearing on the crankshaft,
and then setting the bore guage to this micrometer size.
dangerous ·
I then insert the bore guage into the mounted bearing
and see what the clearance is.
In this case 2.8 thou.
dangerous ·
This process is repeated for each of the other main bearings.
The oil clearances varied between 2.5 and 2.8 thou.
dangerous ·
With everything washed up and layed out, the assembly can begin.
Assembling all the parts to long-block stage takes about 10 hours.
With the bearings in place, the crankshaft can be sat in place.
dangerous ·
Next, the caps have some never-seize applied to their sides to prevent gualling as they are fitted.
Once the are tapped into place, they are tensioned down to 40 ft-lbs.
dangerous ·
The caps also have a cross bolt that clamps the cap in from the sides.
It has an O-ring installed under it's head, and is fitted and tensioned to 40 ft-lbs also, after tightening the studs.
dangerous ·
There are about 15 oil gallery plugs in this block.
I SMEAR LOCTITE THREAD SEALER INTO EACH ONE AND THEN NIP THEM IN.
Damn caps lock !
dangerous ·
All the bearings are pre lubricated with an assembly lube bfore hand .
Lately I have been using a Morey's product because it is so tacky, but any thick oil or paste designed for assembly
is fine...nulon makes some good ones, and there are some good moly based ones too.
On most threads I have been using Never-seize, but on critical fasteners, namely the rod bolts I use this ARP
product on the threads, and under the head of the bolt.
75 ft-lbs gives .006" stretch on thse fasteners with this lube.
dangerous ·
And then finally the rod bolts are tensioned in place.
This is done through the top of the block before the lid is installed.
This just about covers all the assembly process, from when I first got my camera last year.
If I have left anything out or if you have any questions please feel free to ask.
humpty ·
Damn thats an amazing looking bit of kit Dave..... It just looks so tough.... You can see why its the serious racers choice..... What Rod bolts are you using? The 8740's or the 2000's?..... The reason I am asking is because Im looking at the bolts on my H Beams and thinking for my app I might upgrade.... Its gonna be a boosted 2276 (250-300hp est, min street use, mostly weekend rocket), but Im not sure if the extra expense is warranted.... Its prolly good security, but I'd like to hear what you think.....
dangerous ·
Hi Simon,
depends on the bolt diameter. If they are 3/8" diameter thread, the 8740's will be fine. For the 5/16" size I would use ARP 2000 or better.
Mine are a different brand that comes with the Pauter rods, but based on the tension required to achieve .006" stretch the are similar to the 2000 material.
These bolts are also a larger diameter again at 7/16".
In my Mule engine I have chosen the L-19 material for one step better than 2000.
Carrilo rods come with an SPS brand fastener known as CARR that is a little better again than the L-19...very nice, but 600 dollars for a set!
Gracey ·
Thanks for sharing, it's amazing how much work goes into a built like this.
kevo ·
amazing, i dream of being able to do things like that!
best porting job on the heads i have ever seen in any car
gull ·
some quality machining there
dangerous ·
While the engine is out, I ordered a new clutch disc.
This one has thicker pads on the FW side to clear the rivets in relation to the FW bolts.
The old disc had done 24 passes plus 10 dyno runs and some time with its little mate
in a two disc deal that was behind my supercharged engine.
I am expecting some extra torque with this engine so I thought it would be better being fresh.
The diafragm has 2700lbs clamp.
[ Edited on 4-5-2006 by dangerous ]
humpty ·
Aaaaaaahhhhh... Isn't it cute!... Cheers Dave for all you help mate.... Your a champ!
pete wood ·
I like the colour, does painting it red make you go faster?😁
But seriously, that is really cool.
does the twin plate setup take up a lot of room?
dangerous ·
Yes red has always been fast!
The dual disc set-up was a real tight squeeze in the bellhousing.
In the end I had a floater that was about 6mm thick and pucks on the discs
that were only just above the rivets from new.
Also had to spotface the bolt seats down to clear in the bellhousing and near
the clutch fork.
Stanley ·
I've got one of those on the end of my whipper snipper for cutting through tough grass....:duh
dangerous ·
Well, last Sunday I got it all bolted in and wired up.
As per last time, I couldn't for the life of me, get the damn thing to idle.
All the accessories of the fuel system were the same, except for a cautious
richening of the mixtures, and my spare electronic WBX dizzy.
If I wasn't such a poindexter I would have used a bit of logic and just
swapped the dizzy to the one I had been using.
But instead, I stressed and tinkered, trying to theorize on some obscure tuning
requirement that all this new found power was demanding. (Yeah, right!?)
So after finally getting home from work before dark, I bunged in my usual dizzy, and, WALLA!!
All sweet!
So what was the problem?
The engine wanted more advance at idle speed.
The dizzy that was causing all the trouble was not faulty, only the advance curve
was far to slow to suit, and if the revs dropped down so would the ignition advance.
To achieve a total timing of 28 degrees, the stock curve had late timing at idle (ATDC).
And I guess that these big cams, and methanol fuel need all the help they can get.
So the propper curve has 20 degrees at 2000 and is all in by 3000.
Just out of interest, that good dizzy is a stock early WBX dizzy, with the vacuum locked and removed, and only one advance spring.
While I am sure that there are much better systems out there, that might unleash more power, this thing was trouble free, and fired my supercharged engine's 42psi boost, and 10:1 comp no worries.
This is nothing scientific, just what performs best with this combo.(talking about the advance curve in the N/A combo)
[ Edited on 12-5-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
Here is that dizzy,
and the completed engine.
[ Edited on 12-5-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
Here is the timing pointer I made.
Can you say, "heavy duty"?
Stanley ·
Looks great Dave....lucky you have it bolted in otherwise it may have got mixed up with my bits when I come to pick them up.
When are you going to run it? i'll come out for a look and bring my trusty vid.
Love the timing pointer...if you ever need to run a chute, nice HD attachment point.....:P
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:Love the timing pointer...if you ever need to run a chute, nice HD attachment point.....:P
LOL!
choppa ·
dangerous wrote:Here is the timing pointer I made.
Can you say, "heavy duty"?
Hate to get my neck tie stuck in that at 7 and a half
dangerous ·
Happy Birthday to me...
I heard the Honda was not able to back up the record in "All Motor",
so the record is still mine until the Jamboree up here in September.
Craig Paton ·
Well Dave
Looks like you'll have to get your chassis car on track and step up the tune to better that Honda..!!!!
dangerous ·
Can't run a tube chassis in All Motor, unless it is a Honda.
Don't worry, I've got him covered though.
humpty ·
He, he, heeeee!!!!😁
Craig Paton ·
dangerous wrote:Can't run a tube chassis in All Motor, unless it is a Honda.
Don't worry, I've got him covered though.
That's what we like to hear..!!!!! :thumb
dragvw2180 ·
Dave, you and Mike are awsome,took me alot of years to learn a small part of what you have given all of us in these posts,thanks alot
hey dave you got a spare set of square cut gears for that pauter motor ,did you say the centres are 6 mm apart than std vw . if so how much. thanks john
dangerous ·
Hi john,
no spares that I can part with.
The 6mm spacing is the same as a type 4 engine, but with a type 1, bolt pitch circle.
Pauter stocks the gears for these and type 4s, and are a phone call away.
midget jt ·
hi dave thanks for your help i will phone pauter later .i might need to call on your help soon as i am building a new motor from scratch but with a 5 main crank.
dangerous ·
Oohh! Would like to see that!
Not Subaru though!?
midget jt ·
no way dave its vw based . i had a reply back from mario of pauter he said that type 4 gears with type 1 hole centres dont exist ,the gear set on the pauter is that 6 mm apart and the holes same as type 1 and crank dia same as type 1 .thanks john
dragvw2180 ·
Hey Dave,
I just sat down and reread all these posts.Alot of the things you have in this motor are things I have only seen in advertisements,again,thanks for the peek inside.With the journal overlap at the crank webbing,it won't flex or brake in the center main,very impressive! Bearings should hold up for a long time.When I was flow benching my heads years ago,my flow started to flatten out about 25% of the size of the valve head,so I ran a long duration cam to keep it in that sweet spot as long as we could and still have some bottom end,is that the idea behind your new cam and valve train? thanks, Mike
dangerous ·
The cam profile in this engine is an extreme change from the one I have been running.
I want to experiment with more duration, to see what point the car loses performance at the track
with a different power and torque peak.
In theory the engine should see the higher flow points (of the heads) for longer,
and so produce more of everything.
Problem will be keeping the RPM up in the power with the gearing that I currently use.
The new cam has 20 more degrees@.050" than the one I have been using.
It will most likely produce less torque, but the peak will occur at a higher RPM,
thus producine a higher power output.
I have also refitted the higher ratio inlet rocker, than the other cam used.
The engine sounds totally different, so it should be fun and interesting to drive
...just waiting for the opportunity, it is all ready, just waiting for a run!
dragvw2180 ·
When you get a chance,e mail me your spec's,open and close times,I will run it through my simulator and send to you results.I know it works great on n/a because I have used it on my ghia and the dragster we had(hot vw's b/d mph holder car),we did not reset record but were trying, till we ran out of money,lol
dangerous ·
Today the 15th of July was my last opportunity for a run before I become and unemployed bum...but it is raining out side...DOH!
Perhaps I will just walk the earth, and get into adventures, just like Cane off Kung Fu.
tassupervee ·
dragvw2180 wrote:................................ but were trying, till we ran out of money,lol
I very common theme.....................
L8tr
E
humpty ·
So whats up Dave?.... Y u now a gold coast bum?
dangerous ·
Been working on permanent casual, at Crankshaft Engineering for 10 years on the 29th of July.
So it is time to move on.
Have nothing planned but will have two months of being a Bum and getting into adventures.
Been thinking of a variety of options like self employment, study, or just unemployment.
Or may be a combination of all three.
I am sick of working for penuts, so would rather do nothing.
Whats that?... a tradesman shortage?... Plenty out there, they just dont have the incentive any more.
humpty ·
Come to WA Dave.... Plenty of work here and you could work for yourself too.... Besides... the surf and the beaches are better over here!!!!
andrewmurphy ·
it would be an absolute shame for your talents to go to waste. Freelance.
dangerous ·
Had three runs last night but with mixed/dissappointing results.
Best was 11.44@114.8...close to my record, but engine is not too good...will report later.
Did run my best ever 60 foot time however...1.54...nice wheely too.
Better go down and see what carnage I have done....
Actually, 4 runs...
[ Edited on 20-7-2006 by dangerous ]
Stanley ·
Ahhhh....would've come out if I had known you were out there.
dangerous ·
Dropped the filter and not too bad, there is some fine particals in there but until I get inside the engine, wont know if it is metal, or just the never-seize, that I used on all the nuts and bolts.
The clutch was definitely slipping on the last run(11.59@114.7) off the line and into 4th gear.
Dropped the rocker covers off and all is sweet in there with my mega pushrods and .690 lift. That was one of my paranoia areas and it is fine in that department.
The oil pressure was a little low after each run so will look inside the engine on Saturday.
So, had four runs :
11.87@113.09
11.44@114.1
11.50@114.83
11.59@114.71...that bounced around like a mad man when the cluch finally bit in low gear.
Best 60 foot was 1.54 and best half track was 7.187@94.02(best is 7.185@94.22).
Overall it looks like it has more power, being that the fuel system was leaned off on
each run and that the cam was coming on at 4000, and really took off at above 6000...it only went 6600 in 4th and computor says 7600 is sweet.
More later.
Better go to work!!!!!!!
[ Edited on 28-7-2006 by dangerous ]
[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by dangerous ]
humpty ·
Excellent new Dave.... Its all coming together..... Now for some more tracktime....
dangerous ·
Well, dived in and pulled off the lid.
Checking the bearings on these Pauter blocks is so easy.
Had everything done and checked within an hour.
Lets see if the photos come out!
dangerous ·
Removed the lid and cross bolts, and then the cap nuts.
This slide hammer is the one that Pauter supplys with the case.
It uses a VW 8mm head stud and nut.
Mains were in perfect shape.
dangerous ·
Then the rod nuts were removed from the #3 and #2 rods.
From experience I know that if the engine suffers from oil starvation
at any brief moment, the rod bearing closest to the pump is the one that suffers the most.
I had a low pressure situation on a couple of runs as I backed off at the end of two runs,
and this has shown up on the #2 rod bearing shell but not #3.
These are not too bad but will check the others and replace as neccesary.
Will have to rehash the oil grade and system pressur to ensure a constant supply.
[ Edited on 20-7-2006 by dangerous ]
dangerous ·
When I back off the throttle after a run, the oil surges forward and uncovers the pick-up that is in the sump.
The oil capacity is 5 litres plus the filter volume, and with the latrge main bearing diameter and the oil clearance that I have set up,
there is very little oil left in the sump at the end of the track.
I was concerned about this and so ran less system pressure using an external bypass that recurculates to the pump suction,
and also a small 26mm pump.
Will most likely inspect everything and then change to a heavyer grade of hot oil viscosity.
dragvw2180 ·
Dave,
I know you have a minimum weight you HAVE to run on your car,Why haven't you added a dry sump system to your car,would eliminate the oiling problems.Did not know if you could remove some weight to allow for it.
dangerous ·
Hi Mike,
I am still 50 lbs over min weight .
But I have plans for some lightening (wheels), and can slot a dry sump system in.
That will solve many problems and allow me to run a little more system pressure
without the starvation.
May put some rocker cover drains on too.
dragvw2180 ·
the only thing good about all that oil in the heads is that it is transfering heat to that oil so it can disapate and keep the temps down. Too bad you can't expand your sump for another another couple liters oil capacity w/out doing dry sump.
tassupervee ·
Dave going dry sump is the smart move.
That way, the bulk of the engine sans deep sumps and the like can be kept down and there is NEVER an issue with oil sloshing about on launch. Crankwheels paddling in oil surged back in the sump, further aerating it ceases to be an issue as well
The remote oil tank can be made in ANY capacity he desires and the real issue there is actually getting enough heat INTO the oil in the first place.
The oil temp is not influenced by the heat of the cases and since there is no big slug of oil sitting in the sump heat is lost much fasterby the sprayed oil runniong down the cases than with the oil sitting in there.
My tank holds just over 5 litres but he can make it whatever capacity that gives him a stiffy!
Oil likes to be at its specified operating temp to perform as advertised. Thats usually specified at 100 Deg. C
I addressed this issue with a 100w 240V heater element mounted inside my remote tank.
The oil is heated up to about 75Deg.C after about 1 hour plugged in and stays pretty much there after that.
Mine is scientific as i got the heater element very cheaply but nothing more scientific than a 4" sealed beam 100W driving light aimed close to the tank will work almost as well.
Moroso make immersion heaters that look a bit like a fish tank heater as well that run on 12V and there are lots of flat, pad style heaters that can be wrapped around the tank, or that tank sat directly on.
The engine will rarely, if ever pump any aerated oil as by the time the oil runs down the pan, goes thru coolers, filters and spun around the remote tank, it has pretty much been totally de-aerated. Not to mention the time it will spend in the remote tank before it gets used again.
Another cool thing for him is that the primary work has been done in preparation for dry sump conversion in that the existing oil pumps supply and delivery lines are already external and the job of ganging up the scavenge pump, say at least 30% larger than the pressure pump will be a doddle for him.
L8tr
E
dangerous ·
I have nearly everything I need for the dry sump system, just need a spot to mount the tank, that wont requre a ton of hose and fittings.
The car is IRS so it may have to be mounted ahead of the tortion tube.
dragvw2180 ·
Hey DAVE,
Would you save any weight by using hard line rather than braided for the main line from and to the tank with short hoses attached to pump?Seems like you could run them lower that way also.I know that all the braded line we had when we ran HILBORN injection was pretty heavy when put in a box compared to a roll off aluminum hard line.
tassupervee ·
dangerous wrote:I have nearly everything I need for the dry sump system, just need a spot to mount the tank, that wont requre a ton of hose and fittings.
The car is IRS so it may have to be mounted ahead of the tortion tube.
What oil capacity are you looking at Dave?
l8tr
E
dangerous ·
Currently running 5 litres plus the filter, which should be more than enough.
But any where between that and 7 litres I guess.
tassupervee ·
Yup.
Im running the same really.
Tank holds 5.3 litres full but i just upend a 5 litr oil container. Makes it pretty straightforward!
L8tr
E
dangerous ·
I added a photo of the car at the track.
It is above the most recent engine photos.
dangerous ·
Finished the bearing inspection and all was fine except No 2 cylinder, which I replaced the bearing shells.
Before running again I will double check the pump holes for alignment,
and investigate the use of restrictors for the valve train. Also drain backs for the valve covers.
[ Edited on 30-7-2006 by dangerous ]
[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by dangerous ]
Dasdubber ·
Can't wait to see it back in action again Dave! :bounce
humpty ·
With the new rims!!!!
kevo ·
humpty wrote:Come to WA Dave.... Plenty of work here and you could work for yourself too.... Besides... the surf and the beaches are better over here!!!!
hell yer humpty, cant beat the easy going west coast lifestyle!
dangerous ·
I heard that there is good light in Broome.
dangerous ·
Ran the car again on Sat night with the lighter wheels and smaller diameter tyres.
The suspension was raised 20mm to account for the tyre change, and this has eliminated any hopping even when I bogged the engine.
The weight saving gave me a MPH improvement up to 116.19 on an 11.51 pass,
but that may have been a combo of weight and RPM being higher thru the finish.
I left the fuel tune as it was previously, and the air density was worse by 1500 feet R/A.
All the bearings are sweet, and the pushrods and valve train are fine after seeing as much as 7750 RPM (.690 lift!)
So just some minor maintenence before the Jamboree.
[ Edited on 4-9-2006 by dangerous ]
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:I heard that there is good light in Broome.
Damn straight.... but its a bit of a hike to the drag strip!
Excellent work Dave.... Hows the competition stacking up?
Dasdubber ·
Hey Dave, is your next visit to willowbank for the jamboree? Brad and I are thinking of heading out this saturday (9th) for the test and tune in his ghia - I guess another trip would be pushing it! Did Rod and Pete run last weekend as well?
Good to see the new wheels made some difference!
dangerous ·
Hi Alan,
Yes next run is Jamboree , but I might come up for a look if you guys are running.
Pete, Rod and Andrew(Stanley) all came up on Sat night, and will most likely come up to watch you guys.
I would love to run again, but it is just false economy whilst an unemployed bum!
See you saturday!
DB
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:...whilst an unemployed bum!
DB
ahhh... Its a good life! 8)
Dasdubber ·
Cheers Dave, will most likely talk to you before the weekend.
dangerous ·
Well the jamboree was a wake up call for me.
I had forgotten how hard it can be to go racing when you are not in the right frame of mind.
I prepared the car well, but had not slept all that well leading up to the event.
After the last T&T, I had noticed that the car was slower to ET, despite the MPH being quite good by comparison.
But, first run I had was at 5pm after waiting around in the hot sun for most of the day, so I was a little annoyed by that point.
First pass was a 12.96@112.89. I missed 2nd gear three times and then it felt pretty strong.
I had leaned the fuel system off above 6000rpm.(or so I thought!)
Second launched well but had to stop on the track with wobbly wheels.
Sunday was a better day with a 11.81@112.87 that felt smooth but slow.
I fixed the alignment of the front beam,
Backed off the clutch,and
I had bumped the ignition timing up to 30 degrees from 28.
And also the day was extremely hot and humid.
Second round, with the timing back to 26degrees("twist of the wrist") and shift point up to 7800rpm(from 7600).
It was a 11.76@114.7.
Still smooth, but still slow.
But as I found out later(during this week) all the "high speed" fuel changes were just imaginary.
I took a trip yesterday to my old mate Alan Farrer's place and he spun up my fuel system on his flow bench.
About a year and a half ago I had done this myself using the milling machine to drive the fuel pump.
But I had used water as medium(for safety) and as it turns out water is too dense,
compared to methanol.(Alan uses a liquid with the same specific gravity as Methanol)
To cut a long story short, the "high speed" poppet was never opening.
Even when I dynoed the car about a year ago.
Also there was a 10% variation in the flow of each nozzle,
and my volumes were enough to supply fuel for a 350hp engine...way too much!
Anyhow, now the nozzle flows are even and flow closer to the correct amount for my estimated power.
I started the car up today and it already sounds better!
All the other maintenence jobs are done and it is right to go for Warwick.
Oil changed,
Filter was clean,
Tappets did not need adjustment(.690" lift and 7800 shift,:thumb)
Larger tyres fitted for 3rd gear finish at Warwick,
and battery is on charge.
Can't wait to see what this sucker will run!
[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by dangerous ]
Doug Sweetman ·
swoit..... cant wait now.
Funny how engine tuning can be like that sometimes. I cant imagine how much black art goes into tuning those mechanical methanol injection systems......
tassupervee ·
Dave
If you find yourself a distributer out of a Nissan Pulsar turbo, It will take you approximately 10 minutes to alter to fit into the case and you have instant 360 degree optical crank angle sensors.
Id suggest around 6oo to 700cc injectors.
Trackside adjustments in seconds via a handpiece.
The rest will be self explainatory to you.
L8tr
E
E
dangerous ·
Boy I have not updated this in a while!
I am still racing the same engine combo but have fine tuned it a little more,
but more importantly learnt a lot more about WHAT the engine wanted.
Since my last post within this topic, most gains came from fuel system fine tuning,
and increasing the operating rpm with lower gearing.(and bumping up the rev limiter)
The limit is now set at 8400.
The bread crumbs I followed were layed at the 'VW Dyno Day' last year,
where the power peak was still climbing when it hit the 8000 rev limiter.
This information, and the good result I had at Warwick '07 with 8000 thru the finish,
with 1/8 mile gearing,
gave me a new plan of attack.
I re-geared he tranny to pull 8000rpm at my previous best mph,
and immediately the car was faster,
and mph gained from about 118 to 119.9.
With some fine tuning of the fuel system,
and using the 2-step rev limit at an ungodly 7500 launch,
It bested with a 11.00 at 121.46mph.
So with this final tune,
maths calculates the FW HP to be 247.
Car weighed 804kg, about 1770 lbs.
Just for information's sake,
a chassis dyno reveals this to have a figure of 220.8hp at the wheels,
on a DynoDynamics unit in Shootout mode.
The power peak was close to 8000 rpm.
Minor fuel changes, and new home made 5" ram tubes to replace the air cleaners,
raised this figure to a best of 225.5.
I will run this as it is for the up coming dyno day on the 19th of July,
and also for the Jamboree(23/24th Aug)
And of course, VW Warwick on the Sept/Oct week end.
After that I have some new things to try:
2443TT ·
Hi Dave,
Is that one of those chinese copies of the autocraft head? There was some discussion about those on shoptalkforums, and marty staggs mentioned that although the casting is good, the porting has to be completely re-worked as the small end of the port is at the manifold end which is of course backwards. There was something about the valves, valve guides and seats that needed re-working or finishing as well.. I cant remember, it was a while ago.
Though if your looking for a cheap set of heads and have access to your workshop i doubt that would be a difficult to fix issue.
dangerous ·
Hi Ian,
these are from Roger Crawford and are the CD castings.
Not the land of China ones.
Still need a lot of work, but been here before!
humpty ·
😁 Holy shit Batman.... Will you look at that!
Martin Taylor ·
Just been reading though your post, Ive had to do the same work to the bearings ect in mine.
I too had to make a fixture for machining the bearing to allow the oil escape the bearings.
I even re-did the oil passages.
Oh my motor is
pauter block
sony bryant crank
paradise billet heads, turbo ect ect ect.
Keep up the good work, always interested in people who do there own machining and arnt scared to try somthing new.
Martin
dangerous ·
Thanks Martin.
I have seen plenty of V8 Sonny Briant cranks but never one for a VW style engine.
They are probably one of the nicest cranks I have ever seen!
Any pictures of yours?
Martin Taylor ·
yeah i have a few pictures of the motor, dont think i have any of the crank on its own. its a lot lighter that the Pauters.
there you go.
its changed a bit, but you know what development is like!