but there is that additive right?
here's some reading material on unleaded;
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=49875
Basically unleaded will be fine, but is a lower octane rating then leaded so it may knock. If it does then you need to use premium unleaded.
A more informative read than the above thread can be found here;
http://www.vw-resource.com/leaded.html
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
thanks for that wes i forgot i can do a search in forum
i got my beetle a 1969 1500!
[ Edited on 25-8-2006 by Learner ]
congrats man, looks like a nice car.
Let the games begin 🙂
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
Chop it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😂😂
tssnq.com.au
hehe it is nice i just got to get the money together. but since it's my only car right now i recon i'll start with the inside (it hasn't got a radio). It's got the original fuse box should i upgrade it?
ok here is another one. Is it possible to install a mordern dash board? with speedo odometer etc? if so how??? do i need to do anything witht he fuse box?
pretty shore wes has got some pretty modern stuff in his baja just ask him think he just put climate control in so i dont think a dash would be a biggy.
69 baja soft top 1600 tp.(painting)
71 superbug(striped going german look eventualy after baja)
read this thread and you will see pics of me and Ricola grafting other dashes into VW dashes;
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=45239
The thing is it worked for us because we also run the engines and wiring looms that go with those dashes.
To use it with a VW you'd have to also use a speed sensor and something to calibrate the speedo to the different VW wheel size. The tacho would be a little tricky too.
[ Edited on 25-9-2006 by Baja Wes ]
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
which thread?
got a question! my fuel hose disconnected itse;f while driving 3 days after i got the car fixed for RWC Got really anoyed at that... but anyway. since it has been replaced and even clamped, but i noticed there isn't much fuel in the fuel filter and it's harder to start the car. on a slope, the car tend to shut itse;f ( the enine i mean) seems like there is a fuel pressure problem?
how do i fix it? is there suppose to be quite a bit of fuel in the fiulter?
most fuel filters only have about a third of fuel in them at a time ...sounds funny that your fuel line come off ...id'e check and mack sure no bastardhas put anything in the line or pump
That one looks too nice to cut up.
Steve
the picture looks better than the actual thing. as for now i decided not to cut it but to do up the interior and maybe widen the fenders. actualy should i got to a panel beater or a custom shop to widen the fenders?
nah stick with your origional plans. it will be rewarding in the end.
better to start with a car in good condition than a shit heap and there will always be people who will judge you for doing it but who cares.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
what are the first modification would people suggest i should do to a baja? after the body being done.
Anthiron wrote:nah stick with your origional plans. it will be rewarding in the end.
better to start with a car in good condition than a shit heap and there will always be people who will judge you for doing it but who cares.
I agree... otherwise u end up with a poo heap like mine and ur busy scratching ur ass while staring at some nasty rust... wondering wtf was i thinking... lol
😀:thumb
CHOP DA BUGGER!! LOL!
slice and dice... mumma its mincin' time!
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Learner wrote:what are the first modification would people suggest i should do to a baja? after the body being done.
for any recreational dub, anyone can tend u just get away with the body kit and not very much work on the running gear...
BUT! what i would think of is strengthening the tie rods once i get my kit all on and body ready, cause they get bent very easily on the rough terrain.
I did hear somewhere about like some certain yr model bug tie rods being alright and a little stronger than others. was it the 1500 model ones? If so then score
😀😀
Otherwise mate, i got Jeff Hibbards guide to baja bugs and buggies, and it tells ya how u can strengthen em... might be able to scan some info... wil lc what ican do, scanner is all packed up at the moment cause of the house move... cheaper DIY though. if u want the info, give me ur email and will c what i can do... even if i retype it out.
otherwise... u should be fine for a recreational... can get away with stock air filter, even stock exhaust or even stock wheels if u wanted to be really low budget and have crappy traction, lol. (although u will stare and not like the bicycle wheels being on a baja with such fat guards, it neva looks right)
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
hehe i agree with your last statement. i'll look into the tie rod see what i can get from it.
thanx for that
SHITER TIME!!!
i want to replaces the stock shifter i've got any suggestions? i've her lots about the SCAL drag fast. is it really worth it and does the 40-60% throw reduction a benefit? unless street racing ofcourse
i have decided on an american made custom shifter with 60% throw reduction and special assambled for offroad use meaning all is sealled properly so no sand or dust can get into the mechanism
before you go buying expensive shifters etc.
id
a) get the body chopped and the kit fitted (use new fender beading)
b) get some wider wheels and tyres for the rear
c) get an offroad exhuast
d) make sure all the stock components are in good condition and working order before u start modfying things!!! unless you are replacing the item.
lots of people run stock tie rods including me and sure they bend. but u can get them easily, if u make your tie rods indestructable then you no longer have that weak spot and the shock is transfered down the line to the much more expensive steering box, my opinion anyway.
as for a shifter you can get a short throw kit for a stock shifter and an empi knob which will cost you about $40 instead of hundreds for a hi po shifter.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Yep, I'd put a shifter way, way, way down on your list. My baja on the left here still has the standard shifter with a short-shift kit that cost me $5! It's up to you of course, but if you're going to build a baja there's a lot of money to be spent in other areas first.
the only reson y i'm getting it it's because i know a friend in the states that can get it for real cheap. it's a one off thing.. so y not. as for the body i'm still cahsing a kit and doing more research in exhausts:
as far as exhausts i think i'll settle in with a 4 into 1 as i've heard many good things about them how ever i'm getting overwelmed by the amount of brands and types and kits etc... plus just recently i heard about a 4 into 2 into1 does anyone knows anything about them?
Anthiron wrote:lots of people run stock tie rods including me and sure they bend. but u can get them easily, if u make your tie rods indestructable then you no longer have that weak spot and the shock is transfered down the line to the much more expensive steering box, my opinion anyway
The best thing to do is get an old front sway bar, but it up and put the long straight part down the middle of the long tie rod.
This strengthens the long tie rod, and stops it from bending. But it has a little give and doesn't really shock everything else much different to what the stock tie-rod does anyway.
Wheels that are offset outwards give the tie-rods a harder life. This is because when you hit something with the front of the wheel, the force in an offset wheel goes to the outside of the spindle turning pivot point. So it essentially tries to turn the wheel outwards, which compresses the tie-rod. The bigger the offset, the bigger the turning force, and the bigger the compression force in the tie-rod.
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.