You can see how they have used threaded plugs and dowels which is a nice addition.
Also they have machined every surface with a curve where possible.
Where material is not needed, it has been removed,
and where strength is required, it is quite substantial.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Absolute beauty and top quality machining by the looks.
Yep...now all I have left to worry about is where my next meal will come from!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Dave I take it this is the new CNC'ed intermediate housing from land for an 091? I have sent them some emails as I want to run a bug nose cone on my 091 with lots of trick bits. Thank you for sharing the photos, its looks like it is well worth the money and considerably better than the Berg item which I believe is case (not 100%). When I get the $$ together for my gear set I'm sure I will need to ask you many questions 🙂
Stephen
This one is to suit the 002 bus trans.(fits with 091 case, but not 091 internals without using a spacer)
Apparently the late 002 and 091 are in the works.
It is a nicer unit than the Berg cast one,
but the Bergs (when available) is a complete kit,
and works fine, for less money,(if you don't abuse it with internal injuries like I did!)
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
nice...
Hey Dave,
Did you say that it was made of steel or alum ? Looks to really be a nice piece.
Mike
dangerous wrote:That may be my only choice soon. I would like to make them from steel.
Of interest is that yesterday, the 30th of November was 5 years since I crashed my car.
And nearly 8 years since I ran in the 9's for the first time.
All the old timers are right...time does fly, the older you get.
Shit mate.... Thats my birthday!.... Its prolly a good thing I didn't buy the tube car then.... Its prolly got bad mojo for me!!!.... If your a superstitious kinda guy...
dragvw2180 wrote:Hey Dave,
Did you say that it was made of steel or alum ? Looks to really be a nice piece.
Mike
Hi Mike,
It is aluminium.
Seems like pretty good quality material and machining.
Hope to have it back in the car with in the week!
DB.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
How can a piece of alloy get us soooo excited?
Is it normal for a piece of alloy to be so sexy?
It meant to do a job but looks so good!!!
Lane does good work!
How is the other one you ordered Dave?
VOLLKOMMEN ART
nick@vollkommenart.com
Speed and Style
Hi Nick,
the other housing, that is a cast version, is due to leave the USA tomorrow.
I ordered it in case the Canadian ones never eventuated, but I will still use it as a back-up" in case".
So far there have been a couple of minor issues with the billet housing,
but nothing major.
I will show the details in a couple of days when I finish assembly.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The first step was to round up all the replacement parts I needed for the rebuild.
Other than the spiffy intermediate housing, I needed a few stock parts to replace what had suffered in the carnage.
I needed:
fresh 2 lt case, This one has the thicker tapered ribs:
Unlike this one that has much thinner ribs.
They are a similar age, must just be a different mould.
fresh 1800 crownwheel and peanut,
fresh input shaft and joiner stud,
early nose cone(one without the seal)
various studs and bearings,
1/2 shift fork and rod,
3/4 shift fork.
I also had a new ERCO spool to replace the heavy superdiff.
First step was to get the pinion to the correct depth by shim under the pinion bearing.
This time I have moved the pinion closer to the crownwheel than stock
to account for the pattern being too close to the nose when the back lash is reduced.
Here is the resulting pattern:
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The next step was to carry out a modification as recommended by Paul Guard in the USA
Once the pinion shim was set, I had to recheck the gear stack on the pinion,
so that all the gears and hubs were at their correct position to make 4th gear at its final height.
The spring spacer inder 4th gear was replaced with a solid sleeve
that has its height such that I can only just turn it with multi-grips when the end circlip is fitted.
This is important because the face of 4th gear
will be used as a secondary thrust limiting surface against the new intermediate housing.
I flipped 4th gear over, and machined the shoulder and face to locate a 40hp first gear thrust washer.
this one has the nubs ground off the outside edge so they wont interfer with the 1.09 fourth gear teeth.
This washer will "bear" against a swinaxle side gear thrust washer(again, with its nub ground off,
and a couple of 36hp flywheel shims will controll the clearance.
The red arrows point yto the 36er shims and these are ground down on the outside diameter
and deburred to be the same as the thick one (green arrow).
A recess has been machined in the inside of the housing to locate the shims and diff washer:
Here the shim stack is all sitting in place and lubed with oil.
The diameter of the recess is such that they can turn freely.
The depth of this groove took a lot of measurement and guesswork to acheive.
Paul suggests, once assembled,
there should be between .002" and .004" clearance between the shims.
I determined that with a .002" thicker shim,
that the pinion was quite stiff to turn, (so went to a thinner one)
and I was able to bend the end of a 3 thou feeler and just wedge it between the shims.
One reason for the shims, is so that you have some adjustability to get the end clearance just right.
I would imagine that the shims would also progressively slow down the surface speed as they turned
so as not to wear away at the aluminium under thrust.
Paul says it should only thrust against the housing off the start, and perhaps at the beginning of 2nd gear.
I had to spoon the drain back hole since the shims nearly covered it.
I also added a chrome Moly pinion bearing nut for added strength,
although Paul suggests the new thrust set up will not require it.
For an extra $66 plus freight, I thought it worth while addition.
Once I had all this sorted I could continue.
The gear case needs a lot of clearance to use this type of housing.
This is due to the beetle shift rods and forks being on the opposite side
of the car compared to what the bus was designed for.
It helps to clearance the forks a bit as well, and the 1/2 shift rod needs to be cut short,
since it normallt goes through the housing for support.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Here is an old photo of the clearancing in my old case.
Around two hours of trial and error work with the die grinder.
The 'LanD' Housing is a very nice piece,
but I had to deal with a few issues.
The bearing hole was a little tight for the pinion.
This caused the bearing to be too tight when I went to slide the housing over the pinion.
So I had to shim about .001 from its bore.
The inside of the housing is a tight fit as far as forks clearance goes.
My guess is that this is intentional to aid strength.
But I has to put a small chamfer here:
And clearance the 3/4 fork in these areas.
No big deal.
The other slight issue was the holes where the bolts(studs) go through into the two litre case
were ever-so slighty-out.
I am guessing these are drilled when the whole thing begins from a 3" thick chunk of 7075.
Only 3 holes needed a slight rub with a rat-tail file.
Again, no big deal, one minute of work.
Lastly, the grub screw for the pinion bearing dowel hole
that is supplied really needs a shoulder.
When tightening this, it distorts the bearing, so i made a shouldered one with a washer to solve this issue.
Fitted:
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The rest of the assembly was trouble free.
The nose cone was machined flat to account for the thickness of the thrust plate that limits mainshaft bearing movement.
Here it is in the jig to adjust the forks, inluding reverse.
The 2lt case I had lying around for about 15 years had some corrosion,
so I buzzed it with the die grinder before final washing and insertion of the gear assembly.
Then the crownwheel assembly and input shaft are installed .
I set the backlash to .002", which is what I used when determining my pinion shim.
Then I quickly double checked that the pattern was still correct
in case the bearing was not fully seated, or if perhaps the shim had been lost or mixed up.
All AOK:
This time I have retained the bell housing using 15mm hex nuts for the 8mm threads,
these are nuts and washers from VW head studs.
I am hoping this will assist the case strength for maintaining crownwheel mesh.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
I made these spacers to go under the drive flanges.
I ended having to make a second set, so they are the same diameter as the seal surface on the flange.
These ones pushe the flange out too fat and the oil seal would have leaked.
The spacers were so that the end of the spline was flush with the flange,
And then I can use bolts to retain the flange rather than a circlip.
I have since replaced these bolts with higher grade Allen Bolts.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
I had better go down stairs and get that sucker installed in the car!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The master at work yet again. I might not follow exactly every little thing you do dangerous but just love reading about all the little things you do to try and make a relaible box!! Attention to detail is something I can relate to.
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
good stuff! better get my arse into gear got stuff to do this week free next will ring soon. by the way what stops you or any one using a standard kombi intermediate housing other than shift rod height? man that looks great, talk to you soon.
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
Hi Mac,
the housing its self is not a problem, it is the shift linkage design under the nose cone that is the problem.
Where a bug has the hockey stick conecting directly to the shift rods,
a bus tranny has the hockey stick connecting to a 'shift rail', that in turn hooks the shift rods.
The bus set up can be improved, by renewing some parts that wear, and updating some things,
but it will never like fast shifts....especially up to third gear.
Although...
Pete has been driving the chop top beetle for some time with the stock bus housing.
It will be upgraded though before it runs again.
For you, and the 1/8 mile,
an 1800 box with close ratio 3rd and 4th might be a good starting point.
You can always upgrade the housing at a later time, with better mainshaft, and intermediate housing, diff etc, etc.
So many options and so little time!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Hey Dave,
I can see one of those boxes in my future,will be buggin the hell out of you with questions,hahahah
As always ,you save us all time by teaching us how to do it right and save us the aggravation of having to find out the hard way how to make the parts live.
Mike
Any secrets I have are available to you Mike,(and anyone who asks)
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
sweet work Dave and love the attention to detail.... I'm assuming this box is going in YOUR drag car? are you anticipating a heap more power or are you just chasing reliabiliy and less stress worrying about transmission detonation?
Hi Alan,
just making things better.
When ever I break something(pretty rare) I always look at what to do to make it better.
Some times things wear out, but in this case I NEEDED to make it better.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
That way it willl now handle 7500rpm launches all day long eh Dangerous!!!
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
That's the plan!
Actually 7800.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
round it up to an even 8000....😎
I noticed on one of Das' videos that Shawn Geers uses a startline chip the same as his shift point.
9000?
The shift lite is on when it is on the start rpm.
Pro Stock V8's use 8600 out of the hole, but my wallet is pretty bare right now,
so I don't want it to become a vacuum in there.
Black Hole material.
Wouldnt be the first hole that sucked up money.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Black holes???? Isn't that having a car to compete in motorsport?????
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Black holes???? Isn't that having a car to compete in motorsport?????
Women dude. Women.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
