hey guys im looking at getting a '74 cheap and i wanna put my 2276 that ive got in bits into it . is there any advantage over my '68 that ive got . the '74 has drum fronts and rear which will be changed to discs and t3 rear drums. is the '74 better in any way ? i know its heavier
cheers brenton
Its got a Strut front end :puke stick with the torsion bars Front ends LOL
Mate there all good to race if you have the chance Go for it
If it is a 1974 Aussie spec car with drums, it will more than likely be a 1300 twin-port. No advantage over a 1968 model for racing, that I can think of... Same (swing axle)suspension, although it could be argued the gearbox is a) stronger and b) has slightly lower gearing
If it is a Super, it will have a curved windscreen...?
Therefore different suspension - trailing arm rear and strut front - and more overall mass
hey guys sorry i forgot to mention it was a std , so the gear box is stronger ? , how much power can they handle is your care full , im building a 2276 i herd around 150 is the max if you drive really carefull ?
cheers brenton
i want the car to handle well and then once i get some more dollars new gbox to handle the power. thats what i meant . so i would have to drive carefully on the old gearbox till i can really get on it with a stronger gearbox and axles .
cheers brenton
really i want to know if i should fix up a '74 im getting into a race and keep my '68 low or should i just fix and sell the '74 ? i was thinking it wouldnt matter if i cut the rear to tie the horns in etc . wheres i dont really want to do that to my 68
cheers brenton
hey man any beetle is good for racing, but which model is personal preference.
Me ive owned and driven the torsion bugs and raced one at a street sprint and just recently bought a 75 l bug and for me id preferr throwing around the l-bug.
Torsion bars front end cars are OK for the sort of racing where you don't need suspension, like hill climbs or drags where you just need the front end to rare up to transfer weight, but anything that requires high speed finesse, go struts.
If your talking about supers being heavier, I've done jobbies that weigh more than the difference in weight
Steve
[ Edited on 14-2-2007 by 1303Steve ]
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
surely seeings as supers have struts/irs they would handle that little bit better??
"what kinda creator would make a race of people
and make em act a certain way or else He deems 'em evil?
HOW can You give a living being the freedom to breathe
and then lead em into a sea of decievers who greet em, see!"
Brenton, did you get any further in thoughts on '74 L-bug vs Ball Joint fronted beetle?
Brutus has ball-joint front & 4-joint rear, but that was a choice made many years ago, and it was specifically bought to get that set-up. At that time, prevailing opinions were against Struts for track work (they couldn't readily be lowererd/ stiffened etc. then) but times have changed obviously!
...
Sorry just re-read & see it is a standard '74, suppose it is a 1300 with swing axle rear. If so both your cars have the same suspension & brake set-up - so n ot much to choose, just pick the 'less nice' car for racing! But, better to sell one & get a better type for racing? eg S or L bug if you like struts, or semi-auto or '76 if you prefer front beam. EITHER way I'd go for a 4-joint rear unless you're only doing drags. I'm not sure if it's worth changing bakes for drags or hillclimbs. (Do discs really weigh much less anyway?) If you're doing longer/sprints could be a good idea.
[ Edited on 21-2-2007 by BRUTUS ]
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