Great job ..I am looking at doing some minor strengthening for my car ...especially for the centre pillar .....some engineering and fabrication will be in progress shortly ...can give you an idea of what I propose to do if you are interested!
This looks awesome!
Greg Gordon-Lane
Brisbane
Vw's are part of life's journey .... get on board!
awsome stuff dave.
i was gona go 5.300 11/32 2.0 inlt 1.625 ex 250'from top step groove.
i will start looking up some more stuff.
what about studs.
i am only going to use 4 per barrel for now.
If you don't want to spring for autocraft studs,
you can use VW 10mm studs.
They come in many lengths from 36hp right up to 1600,
so you should be able to find some the right length.
Have some covers for you courtesy of Ross Freestone!
essex wrote:Hi Dave, you mentioned not using lash caps earlier, provided valve length is good, is that OK with all motors or just Westi's engine build?
Hi Barry,
if the valve stem has a hard tip,
and the geometry is such that the 'wipe' is small,
you can leave the lash caps out.
Most titanium valves come with hard tips, so this is best when using a roller tipped rocker.
thank's for the link dave.how cheap is the ti.
that's unreal.at those prices i could afford to have a spare set of head's set up.lol
i had already paid for the cover's buy the time i read the post,but thank's for the offer.
as for the stud's i will dumby up the engine next week sometime .i don't mind buying autocraft's.i jumped in the deep end so i may as well go the whole way and buy what ever it need's.
dangerous ,how did you come up with the math's to get the srping pressures so high.is it the lift,rpm,duration or abit of everything.
i would like to know if you don't mind sharing.
My old set up with the Pauter heads was pretty sweet with the 9935 Isky endurance springs,
and so, with the increase in lift by stepping up to a 1.7 rocker, I knew that I would want another 100 or so lbs.
Roger Crawford told me to use the Manley's that I went for.
I have since tracked down a PSI spring that is a couple hundred LBS less, that may have been a better choice,
but for now I will see how these things go being that they cost me so much!
My gut feeling was that I did not need that much tension,
but he said that more is better,
and I will be able to "set and forget" for a whole years racing.
My old set up was limited to 8400 rpm, and had .687" lift cold.
The new set up has only .710" cold and I would like to be able to use 8600 rpm if I need to,
but not too keen on doing that at this stage.
With these things shimmed right up Roger uses over .800 lift and over 10,000 reliably.
Ok sharing time.please.If you want to I guess.
I have bought alot of new parts and have gone over all the old.
What cranks is everyone using.in there different set ups and what bearings are being used.
And a hp figure for what you have.
The reason for asking is all about oiling.
Grooved bearing v's flat. And how is the crank oiling holes drilled.
Just finally nutting out the junka's short falls and hopefully helping others.
Oh and if I get a chance I will take some pic's.
Cheers guy's
Most the Chinese cranks have an oil hole system that is copied from the German Okrasa....copied badly.
This issue CAN be addressed, since it is to do with the position of the oil holes in the FW main journal.
In most cases the index between these holes still worked with the later non grooved bearing, but
Okrasa did theirs when the KS and VW bearings were fully grooved internally,
so if you can find some grooved bearings, that will help.
The oil holes are also in error in an axial plane on Chinese cranks,
so the oil groove in the bearing may need to be widened with those cranks.
Chinese flanged cranks are excellent value,
but about half the price of the next best, which i think is the Scat.
I think the Scat oil hole system is the best,
but newer cranks from them, have reduced the number of oil holes, and made them larger.
This is not ideal, since cracks can appear, over time, from the oil holes,
but this is long term,
and I still think the Scat crank is a step up from the China ones even though some Scat cranks are Chinese, well, the forgings are anyway..
The next rung up are the cranks from Pauter, Roger Crawford or VW Paradise.(Sonny Bryant).
These are in the price range of $2500 to 3000.
I think all flanged cranks should use split shell bearings and a separate thrust that uses decent oil supply.
This can be done with either VW centre main bearings, or BMW "adapter" bearings, and Toyota or bronze thrust washers...
depending on what journals you have.
Pauter cases use VW, Chrysler(for type 4 journal) or Ford351 main bearings, but the Chry/Ford do not fit the VW style cases.
I should add that the reason the oil hole can be a problem,
particularly on the main journals,
is that if incorrectly positioned, it interupts the supply of oil to the rod bearings. 🙁
Yeh thanks Dave.
Thanks for the info.as alway awesome amounts of knowledge .
That's were the conversation needed to be.
I never, after all these years with the same $250 Chinese combo.
Bothered to look or check, How sad is that. I was wondering if it had caught anyone else out .
Oh well we finally got her back together and running last night.with new temperary fillin engine.
Geez louise. It sounds tuff as nails.!
And snappy . gave me and the boys a shock how it doesn't sound any different to the old 2386.
Can't wait to have a crack at the drags.
Sounds Good Westi!
Some times those "interim" engines go pretty good.
"back in the day" that was my intentions with the 1775cc blower engine.
I used it to learn the ropes, and it ended up being better than the previous bad tune-2180.
It ultimately ran a 10.65 after about 100 runs, before finally upgrading to a stroker again.
finally going to get back into the swing of things,
got the thing almost sorted after way to many sleepless nights,got some good fuel organized.
got her sitting on the dyno ready for some testing.
school holidays have finally finished so if all goes well should have some starting numbers to play with before we change it back to injection ,then a quick re-wire as it's starting to get alittle messy,time to tidy it all up ,
all then hopefully some machining on the bigger engine.
dangerous has my block getting it ready for the new crank and then away we go.
so i will get the fat man to post up some pic's.no sqirells here.
i am keeping busy with someones heads,so don't worry i haven't forgotten you.lol
it was great seeing you all again ,it's been to long between drinks for the junka,and it's time to get motivated again.cya
Good to see the fires back Westi. I always thought Warwick was a long drive just to do a service on your car.
Look forward to seeing the wheels in the air soon.
It never ends,there is always some shitty reason why you can,t work on ya car,
First excuse.last weekend wedding anniversary .10 year.
Second excuse. Lost a worker ( my main man) just had his first child,happy and health.
I am gona have to get struck buy lightening to miss next week,
got a point to prove now,got the team organized for friday's for work on the junka night,can't wait.
lighter, fast, stronger,it's the 6million dollar man(junka)stone cold steve austin.
waiting for a cable,i didn't have the right one for this ecu.
definatley a temp thing though,won't do it under normal idle or light driving.
a bov will heap the rev's to come done quicker under free rev's,but not realy a concern.
one of the fuel pump's is werring,which he said has only just apeared(noise wise).
but i don't think it will be anything mayjor set up wise,it's gona be a sensor setting in the ecu .
i should hopefully get the cable tommorrow.
what a car though all great job with everything,looks much better in person.
i'll keep you posted.
