Dual Webbers on Standard 1600 ?

kombiute Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined Oct 2006 · 20 Jun 2007, 10:24 am

#598045

Hello all,

As the title states I'm considering putting a set of dual 40 idf's on a standard 1600, what sort of performance gains "if any" should I expect?

It going into my Dual Cab Ute 71

Also can you provide any suggestions to perhaps get a more preforamance with an extra $1000 to throw at it.

Thanks

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 20 Jun 2007, 10:32 am

#598048

personally i wouldnt go anything bigger than 36s on a stock 1600 but thats me. id be looking at cam, heads and extractors next

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 20 Jun 2007, 11:16 am

#598056

32 vents and it will be fine

I use to run IDF 36's with 32 vents on a beetle (1303) and it was fine.

It was not as good as the webers on my 1776
About the same as my 34Pict's 1916

about 25% over stock - you WILL notice it if you set them up properly

As for "other" things - read here
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/mods.htm

Are you talking about splitting the case??
or bolt on.

Decent fully merged header - 1.4 rockers there are a few things

Futue te ipsum!!!

kombiute Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined Oct 2006 · 21 Jun 2007, 8:48 am

#598198

Thank you, for the info.

Bizarre, thank you for the link, great info, if I crack the case, what sort of Cam and crank would you suggest.

Thanks again

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 21 Jun 2007, 11:38 am

#598215

Ahh.... here it all gets hard.

First
1) How fast
2) how many $$$ do you want to waste

If you change cam you will need betted head to benefit and you need better etc etc

A Counterweighted crank is needed if you are going to spin more than 5k revs.

You need a fairly good motor to do that
Cam choice is difficult as it affects so many other things.

A mild cam V Force AP2, Engle 110, Web Cam 118 will work fine with stock heads.

Ask more questions

Futue te ipsum!!!

kombiute Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined Oct 2006 · 21 Jun 2007, 12:25 pm

#598223

Thanks again Bizarre,

I have owened my 71 DC Ute for nearly 10 Years and plan to hold onto it for much longer. My Case has cracked, and I'm in the planning stages of the new motor, but I'm going to have to act pretty quick.

-I have $3000 to throw at it.
-Surf plently, and the ute takes us up and down the coast on regular trips, so I want reliability with punch

I'm in 2 minds.

1. Purchase a new stock 1600 bottom end for $1900 and do the basic mods you kindly have suggested on the link, with my webber 40's

or

2. Purchase a alloy block and all the bits and pieces from scratch, but I need help with the pieces can you help? I can not do the assembly myself but I have given indicative quotes of $700 to assemble

Any additional advise would be greatly appreciated,

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 21 Jun 2007, 12:30 pm

#598225

if you fill in your location someone may be near you to help

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

kombiute Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined Oct 2006 · 21 Jun 2007, 12:48 pm

#598232

Thanks,

I'm in Kingsford in East Sydney, have you a business?

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 21 Jun 2007, 12:53 pm

#598233

If you cant do assembly yourself i would maybe stay away from Webers.

Webers are easily jetted but it does take time and "some" understanding

An easier option may be what i have
A 1916 (or 1776) with a stock carb and header.

Nice and simple - Would only cost say $500 - $750 ($250 machining and $250 extra for stock pistons and cylinders over stock cost)

New cases are $700ish.
Cam $150ish
Crank $50 for cleaning yours up to $500 for a new counterweighted.
P&C's $750 for 94's (1916)
Heads $250 to clean up yours to $1000
assembly $700

Adds up doesnt it

Futue te ipsum!!!

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 21 Jun 2007, 12:55 pm

#598234

i use to live out that way when i first came to sydney but that was 5 years ago. my old man has a shop up in taree. there are a couple of others here in sydney that may be able to help you richard at vforce might be one

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 21 Jun 2007, 12:57 pm

#598236

kombiute wrote:Thanks,

I'm in Kingsford in East Sydney, have you a business?

No - but i drink a lot with Richard at V Force at Mortlake (Concord way)

Either pop over some time (late arvos are better - even Fridays - more time to "chat" ) or call him, 0408 991 247 or 9743 1247

Richard as some stuff laying round that he may be able to help you with

Barry

Futue te ipsum!!!

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 · 24 Jun 2007, 7:55 pm

#598713

Bizarre wrote:If you change cam you will need betted head to benefit and you need better etc etc

A Counterweighted crank is needed if you are going to spin more than 5k revs.

Standard heads are fine with cam upgrades. Plenty of hypo motors using standard unmodified 040 heads.

And the standard crank is fine to spin to 6200rpm all day every day if the motor is built by the right builder. The forged vw crank is one of the best in the world.:thumb

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 26 Jun 2007, 10:41 am

#598958

what he said^^
its mainly standard valve springs that are rev limiters

-Joel

kombiute Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined Oct 2006 · 29 Jun 2007, 11:22 am

#599448

Hello Craig, Thanks for the info, I'm thinking of getting an Empi Alloy case allready machined for 1776, I will look into getting the forged crank, what sort of Cam would you suggest ? Engle?

As I'm building the motor from scrath ie: purchasing indiviual pieces, can anyone suggest a purchase list? and finally, who would be a suggested builder in the Sydney area?

Thanks again