Have been off the site for a while and just spent half the day reading your post from start to finish....got to page 27 and had to do some work...just finished the last 8 pages.
SENSATIONAL job mate.
Its great that you took your time with each section and the results speak for themselves....neat!
With respect to the turbo..there are two choices for an ej20t. You can buy a brand new tdo5 with a 16g wheel for $500 on ebay from a guy on sydney...i thinks his name is AUTURBO...or get a VF34 which is pretty much the best of the IHI turbos. There is a second hand one on Rexnet today for $750 of new they range between $1150-$1300.
They will both flow similar cmf and will also spool up quickly. The vf34 is ball bearing and thats why its ultimately better. It will spool up quicker and easier, will last a little longer(one of the only real reasons we have blow off valves..is to stop pressure trying to push back on the turbo from where it came when you close the throttle body)..... Oh and to make the cool high pitch whistle when spooling. I have the vf24 from the version 5sti which has the same exhaust compressor as the 34 although much smaller intake and thus flows alot less at any given psi.
Again awesome work...we will have to get the other boys together and go waste some evo's.
I also had a little bingle in mine 3 weeks ago..rear ender with a bitch who slams on the brakes when she dropped her smoke. Tip...have a little give in the radiator mounts and not nearly so hard to fix. Bonnet screwed, aero cracked and headlight destroyed. Upsetting..but fixed.
hey mick, turns out we will be running the same engine. turbo however will likely be different though, picked mine up early today to match the box from DB sarvo, out of curiosity could you possibly PM me the price you got yours for? (feel i got an awesome price for mine & just wanted to compare thats all)
Oh, you better be out driving it heaps now its rego'd!😀
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 🙂
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
P0102 MAF SENSOR LOW INPUT
P0458 EVAP PURGE VALVE CIRCUIT LOW
P1230 FUEL PUMP CONTROL UNIT MALFUNCTION
P0037 REAR 02 SENSOR LOW INPUT
P0245 WASTEGATE SOLENOID A LOW
Im having issues with the engine as i get towards the higher rev range - maybe about 4000rpm and up, it starts to spit and cut out, kinda splattering. I usually can warm it up a little, get one good run at full revs and then after that it starts to spit and carry on when i get on the throttle.
I would just unplug those things and check connection.
disconnect battery put it back on and just start it then drive again see what it does.
some codes don't make car run bad,
put a fuel pressure gauge on it , check spark plug colour to see if fueling up.
mine has speedo and idle valve code but doesnt cause any trouble.
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
I heard joel saying that some rexy motors start to do what your describing if their speeno sensors arent moving, like are you driving it up the street, on a dyno or just in neutral.
loooking at that list i'd be checking for a dodgy earth
Al and Miles setup the earlier ones to ground the whole system through the manifold, im guessing later ones would be the same
loooking at that list i'd be checking for a dodgy earth
Al and Miles setup the earlier ones to ground the whole system through the manifold, im guessing later ones would be the same
I put all my earths in the one spot easier to check that way🤪🙅🤪
limp mode normally doesnt make it, spit and cut out, kinda splattering
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
i'm just going to drop it back at Westside to work it out - i have no time to muck around with it - happy for any opinions though and ill forward to Westside. Thanks for ideas so far - This is the reason why i paid for someone to do the conversion, because i have no time to play around with this stuff - car is freaken awesome otherwise!!! so fun, so quick and people love it - people have stopped me heaps and waved and even ricers give me the big grin and thumbs up!
Hi Mick, if you need help sorting the engine management give me a call. Subaru management is pretty fussy, you need to have it all working correctly or it will do silly things like cut out at 4000rpm.
Post a pic of the current engine bay layout showing the MAF sensor, boost sensor etc and I can also see if there is anything obvious. In any case it shouldn't be a big deal to fix.
colonel mustard wrote:take it to a subaru service centre... just for a laugh.
It's actually not an entirely bad idea Jason. If the diagnostic port is still within the wiring loom then they can connect it to their diagnostic machine and see all the voltage levels etc for the sensors.
The problem would be convincing them to work on a none std vehicle 😂
