fish26 wrote:Your car looks really good mate, if thats the Nissan turbo same as GT28R .64 a/r, you will have it maxed out @ 300hp,
Yep.... That's why I picked up the GT3076.... And thanks for the props.
both with be fine.
but you have to take fuel into consideration.
they will flow 300-350hp worth of air.
not air with fuel.
but it still will be a great combo all the same.
an honest 250 with a light car will be heaps of fun.
i suggest using a t3 rear housing,because there are a 100 different turbo combinations for t3's.
down sharon.
Its funny you mention the air and fuel point.... Its not something I had ever considered... The point about the T3 housing is also a factor... Both of the turbos I have here use that flange so all good there..... And your totally right about the fun factor... Thats what this car is all about... Fun..... Im not trying to build the fastest car, just a fun car for TnT, Fast Fridays and the street meets.
As always.... Cheers for the props and advise.
Anytime .
down sharon.
I got a couple more hours on it late last week.... Then I went for a drive down to my mate Spriggo's place 2 hours down south and picked up some guards.... Bolted a couple on the car on Sunday for a look....
As you can see, the front still needs to come down a ways and the rear rims are just not filling the guards nicely.... But you get the idea. :wink:
Still waiting on the wide rims to arrive from the US.... I called Roger Crawford in LA about the rims, and it turns out that USPS shipped them straight back to him and asked for them to be repackaged.... It took USPS a month figure that out.... Sometimes I feel there is no hope for that country. :?
Will get the front runners put on the spindle mount wheels later this week, then I can assess how narrow the frontend needs to be.... At the moment I'm thinking about 100-120mm narrower will do it.
I have a plan of attack for the rear interior panels and the new inner tubs too... Will tackle that lot next, once I have the roof and A pillar repairs done...
looking good.
keep going,while the momentem is still there.look at what happened to morgs.lol
down sharon.
One of the Star Cut Ercos arrived today.... Looking forward to the other one turning up.
Nearly have the roof solid, but still have the B pillars to do.... So the next thing to work through is the pedal assembly and the seat mounts.
And here is the question....
What hydralic pedal assembly are being run out there?
Found this....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EMPI-3-4-CLUTCH-7-8-BRAKE-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-HI-RES-HYDRAULIC-UNPOLISHED-16-2131-/230959941803?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c64908ab
And this....
http://www.piersideparts.net/JBP3000TX-58-34S.html
And there are others.... Even have been looking at a few generic ones out there that look pretty cool.
Like this....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WILWOOD-FLOOR-MOUNT-CLUTCH-BRAKE-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-6-1-RATIO-SINGLE-M-C-WIL340-1289-/140844770567?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cb00a507
Obviously Ill need two of these and some suitable MC's to mak them work... And the accelerator pedal obviously...
Any tips?
humpty wrote:Any tips?
Use VW and a cable.
😘westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
😁😵🙄😵💫😵💫😵💫
down sharon.
dangerous wrote:humpty wrote:Any tips?
Use VW and a cable.
😘
x 2
Too late... The tubes are gone... They were broken and damaged, so pulled them out... The thought has crossed my mind to rebuild them, but I don't have a pedal assembly (pan didn't have one when I got it), I figure I may as well 'update' the setup, and move the seat back a little too.
Nobody liking the hydraulic option? Not KISS enough? 😁
Daves setup works well. Have a dig through his thread.
I like cable for simplicity. Hydrolic does give you more clutch management options......decisions decisions. 😂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
How high tech do you need it to be.
R u going to put a slipper clutch on a solenoid with a switch for no slip in all the other gears.
Knock yourself out.
Cable is easy .
Hydro is never a bad idea.
Which master ? Which slave ?
You can still have a hard pedal with hydro when things are not matched correctly.
But after all the bullshit.
Do what you want.
I one day will probably go there.
But no yet.
I hope I confused you even more.
This is fun.
down sharon.
A morse boat cable works well.
I had a hydraulic slave on mine for clutch management only. (alongside the cable)
Cable definately easier to stage with.
Yes and no.... But in my case, it's possibly easier...
And as Matt said.... Clutch management options are there.
For the time being I'm only running a KEP Stage III off the old engine with a new disc.... Will see how that goes....
But as for which hydro setup is best?.... I dunno....
A slave along side your cable you say Michael... How is that setup?
And since I have to put something in, hydro is easier to source, and I can take advantage of putting things in the car where I want them.... Like moving the seat back a little, and making the pedal assembly adjustable.... And I figure it might be a smarter option to just get the complete setup from someone like Jamar and be done with it.... It's proven, it's bolt in for the most part, it's strong and it's light.
Slave cylinder mounted between clutch arm & tranny parallel with the cable. Local reservior with fluid and line lock activated by first gear. Dump the clutch with the cable but the slave slows the arm release.
I'll find a pic.
Awesome!.... Thanks for that Michael.
Just got word from the movie producers, that two of the stunt cars I built, I might bet getting back... They are wrecks now, but I might be able to salvage a pedal assembly... Fitting a tube in the right spot might be a challenge, but I'm sure it's possible.... Am I correct in thinking the bowman tube is not required with a solid mounted transaxle?
Couldn't resist.....
Working on these too... Can anyone tell me what the spacers are for?
And then I sat back and enjoyed the view....
:wink:
humpty wrote:Couldn't resist.....
Working on these too... Can anyone tell me what the spacers are for?
And then I sat back and enjoyed the view....
:wink:
That's a sick shot Humpty,love it...
Cheers Chris! 😁
Less artsy photos and more time building dude.... 😉😘😘😘
Reub
reub wrote:Less artsy photos and more time building dude.... 😉😘😘😘
Always make time for the creative exploits Reub.
The spacers fit between the two bearings' inner races, to prevent excessive side load when the nut is torqued.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Yes, no bend in the Bowden tube when solid mounted.
You may not need it at all if
the angle of the cable is straight to the arm on the trans, from the tube's end.
This will depend on many things, including trans mounting height, and what arm length you have.
If you are starting fresh with your 12mm tube, you can make it perfect.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Great advise as always.... I will be starting from scratch with the tube, so making it a straight shot to the arm will be easy to sort out... The arm itself is a stock Bus one from the look of it... I haven't checked, but will a long HD one fit?... As in, is the shaft the same diameter as the late HD versions?.... I have one on my old (Transform built) transaxle and it made for a very nice pedal.... As for the placement of the tube, I might actually run both the accellerator and clutch tubes alongside the tunnel instead of inside.... It will make the changing of cables a heap easier should the need arise... Obvioulsly this is subject to whether I can modify the OEM pedal assembly to suit.... Time will tell when I sort one of those.
Thanks for that info Dave.
Spacers didn't fit the axles.... Suspect they are for use on ATV's that might use smaller (inner race diameter) spindles.
Tyre go on the rims tomorrow hopefully.... Just need to drill the spindle mounts for the tyre valve....
Another question... Anyone running inner tubes?... I didn't on the other ERCO's, but did notice that tyre pressures lost air over time.
humpty wrote:Spacers didn't fit the axles.... Suspect they are for use on ATV's that might use smaller (inner race diameter) spindles.
Tyre go on the rims tomorrow hopefully.... Just need to drill the spindle mounts for the tyre valve....
Another question... Anyone running inner tubes?... I didn't on the other ERCO's, but did notice that tyre pressures lost air over time.
Should talk with Rod.
He sold Andrew the setup with bearings and spacers (for ball joint spindles...) but didn't fit hence they weren't used.
Reub
From what I have read, these rims were never made for BJ spindles... All offroad guys run LP beams anyway, so its pretty logical.... And the bearings between LP and BJ beams are not interchangeable... Rod wasnt really up on these rims and their finer details.....
But these bearings are LP ones.... Perfect fit... The spacer does fit into the inner race of the larger ID bearing (the inner LP one) and the ID of the spacer is the same as the inner ID if the outer bearing... Adding to the is the length of the spacer.... Its only marginally longer than the width of the bearing.... No way that would work as a spacer between the bearings either.... All of this leads me to my belief that the spacer is in fact not a spacer, but an inner race sleave to make the larger ID bearing fit on a single OD spindle, such as the ones that are found on ATV's.
So I managed to get these star cuts and spindle mounts....
Fitted up and on the car....
