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gearbox gurus... advice required!

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VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#645834
I had a 'spare' single-side IRS gearbox that had about 3-5mm side-to-side play in the output flanges (ie: the diff) so tonight I stripped off the drive flanges, side cover and pulled out the diff. The bearings beside the diff (carrier bearings) are pitted/scored and flogged out - one side in particular - but when turned by hand, the remainder of the box feels nice and smooth and teh drive pinion and ring gear look okay. So I'd like to get it back together and use it in a car

Is replacing these bearings a simple matter of 'off with the old and on with the new' (with help from a mechmaniac/gearbox shop)?

How is the side-play/mesh of the R&P set-up? When I pulled out the diff, there was what appeared to be two 'crush' washers on the *outside* of the bearings, where logic tells me they should be on the inside...? Maybe someone has incorrectly assembled...?

Advice/hints appreciated! The only books I have deal with swingers

I'll try get some pics to help explain...
Pay your debts, CxxT

dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome

5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·

#645851
The backlash is set by shims that are under the bearing cups.

The total amount of shims controls the bearing preload as well.
So the whole stack remains the same once preload is done,
while setting backlash.

There is a shim under the pinion bearing also,
but you will not go that far.

Try to get the same part number AND brand of bearing and you have a good chance to make it a "bolt in swap".

There should be no play in the CV flange once the circlip is on,
and the spacer goes on first, then the CV flange.

Try just the new bearings, and feel for backash if you do not have a dial indicator.
The corect number is 0.15 to 0.25mm.

Do this as a trial assembly before the seals go in.

The bearing cups will need replacing,
and a piece of 60mm tube turned down about 59.9mm will remove the cup without damaging the shims.
Dont mix up or lose the shims.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.

LIFE IN THE LOW LANE All people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the pr

2,534 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·

#645894
who needs a manual with Dangerous around......
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE

Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#645900
well said Dave

should he " blue " the ring n pinion to see if theres the correct contact on the gears
or not worry too much about it
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#645910
Hey thanks for the clarification lads, Dave I did not know there were shims behind the bearing outers/cups. There was about 5mm side-play (in the whole diff - through the gearbox case) and a big 'clunk' between the pinion and crownwheel so I will replace the pitted/damaged bearings (I wonder how that happened) and see how things line up...
Pay your debts, CxxT

dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome

5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·

#645915
You can double check the pattern with 'blue' if you want,
ust in case the pinion has moved.

Some times the LHS bearing pounds into the 'hat' that forms part of the carrier.
You will see what I mean if you find the bearing cone loose on that side.

Other than that,
just loose berings can create a lot of movement when they lose that hard layer and have alkl that pittig.

Pay close attention to the teeth on the crownwheel and pinion,
and remove any burrs if it has been run like that.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#645962
yeah Dave it is the 'sideplate' side bearing that is (most) stuffed; the pinion and crownwheel look okay (no obvious damage or burrs etc) so I'll do the bearings, use the same shims in the same place, and cross my fingers 🙂
Pay your debts, CxxT