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Whats required to turbo it - UPDATE WITH VIDEO

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Camo Custom Title Time!

1,936 posts · joined Oct 2007 ·

#770540
Hi all,

I have a n/a 2180 (82x92) I bought as a second hand motor and was wondering what I may have to alter within the engine so as I can run a turbo with decent boost. I will list the parts as I was told, but I can not tell you the compression ratio at this point or even how long the rods are. Do I need to split the case or whats needed. I know that more engine details would help, but this is all I have at this time.

If you know the answer, please add valuable information that will not only help me but many other Vee Dubbers as well.

Engine parts list below that I was given with the engine - in no particular order:

Engle Cam W110
SCAT 1.25:1 Ratio Rockers
GENE BERG Oil pump
CB Performance 82 mm Forged Stroker Crank
Chromoly Pushrods
CB Performance Lifters
Chevy Style Valve Springs
Ported, Polished ccd Pro Street Eliminator Heads
Stainless Valves 42 mm Inlet with 44 mm Outlet (think he got size of these wrong)
92 mm Mahle Pistons and Barrels
Total seal rings
CB Performance H Conrods
External oil filter
Chrome Bosch 009 Dizy
48 mm Webbers (like new) with oiled foam filters, also comes with brand new set of unused polished alloy EMPI Air Cleaners that sit over the stacks
High capacity oil Sump
Straight cut cams

I got a dyno chart with this and it only had about 65kw at the wheels and I thought it would have had more. This engine was in a buggy and possibly bigger wheels may reduce this figure ??

Thanks, Kevin

I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!

Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#770541
Where to start...the deal is, it's a 2180 with W110 and 42 x probably 37 'pro street eliminators' and it's only making 65 rwkw, so something is not right. IMO I would pull it down and fix what's wrong with the setup, while your there you could reassemble with turbo in mind and so the only 'extra's' would be the turbo items...exhaust, turbo, suitable carb or efi system........how much you got???? What is it to go into, buggy, bus or bug? Makes a big difference. Cost....quite a bit. IF the engine was perfect, the only thing you need to change from the 'list' would be some ARP 2000 rod bolts and they may already be in those rods 🙂. Not all engines are built equal....😏
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

Camo Custom Title Time!

1,936 posts · joined Oct 2007 ·

#770544
Thanks for a quick reply. As to the low dyno chart, it may not have even been for this engine it was only what the seller showed me. I wondered if it was in fact a 2180, but it runs on 2 x 48 webers so I figure it must be (maybe I'm wrong). I know about needing a turbo, exhaust etc, I only wanted to know of internal mods I may need to make. You say that I could pull down, check it out and reassemble, but I would have to do something to lower the compression. Would it just be thicker head copper seals, maybe change the pistons, change head chember shape - what ?????? I thought the compression it now has (which I dont know) would be to high.

Also you said a 2180 with a W110, is this a cam for low down torque (being from a buggy) and I gather not suitable for turbo'ing. Also this is to go in a street beetle, full bodied. If and when I do this, I am planning on EFI.

Thanks again for the input, Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!

Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#770554
For an efficient/powerful engine, the compression ratio is only adjustable a small amount when using shims and spacers. The combustion chamber is the area for work to improve or set up for your desired compression, but this may or may not be achievable depending on the exact components used in your engine. If you've not had a powerful VW engine before, I would advise getting the best from what you have, get on the road, and then go with the forced induction when you've had some fun. I have built several engines similar to yours and over 120 hp is easy even with a smaller cam and low compression for cool and reliable running.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

SuperOwen Fahrvergnugen

868 posts · joined Jan 2009 ·

#770657
Just pull the sucker apart and see what you've got to work with!! Hopefully theres some useable parts in there.

Camo Custom Title Time!

1,936 posts · joined Oct 2007 ·

#771746
matberry wrote:If you've not had a powerful VW engine before, I would advise getting the best from what you have, get on the road, and then go with the forced induction when you've had some fun. I have built several engines similar to yours and over 120 hp is easy even with a smaller cam and low compression for cool and reliable running.
Mat,

Firstly, yes I know the muffler isn't on correctly. Was just put on this way for running purpose as I need to get a flange spacer made up to stop muffler hitting rocker cover.

But I'm as happy as a big in mud at the moment. Just connected up fuel pump etc and gave the engine a run and am very impressed with how strong it sounds. In this video you seem to here the straight cut gears more than the exhaust, but I tell you this is doesn't do it justice. Now I need to pull my finger out and get the car built.

Mat, I am just going to put this engine in as you suggested and cross the next bridge when and if I get the need :-)

Thanks, Kevin

I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!

Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.

Craig S Wolfsburg Wizard

635 posts · joined May 2008 ·

#771751
👍 sounds OK to me, now put it in a car and see how it feels 😁
1969 Beetle - June
1974 L Bug - Gwendolyn
2002 Bora V6 4Motion - Anita