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Eccentric camber nut, forward compared to rearward

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HappyDaze Superannuated

2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·

#868388
Gracey wrote:All this talk about eccentric camber adjusters has got me wanting to install the set I just bought.

What is the best/easiest way to remove the camber adjuster from the ball joint??
Nice move there, Gracey.......changing the subject before it got too heated.👍

Signed,

Eccentric Camber Nut
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!

Aussie Dubbin Fahrvergnugen

895 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#868409
Mate, i just put my olld ones for a few months before i bought the new one and greased it up, but it still seized on. They are a bugger to seperate. If you are replacing the ball jint you can heat the nut up with a decent oxy, and give it a decent crack, otherwise i pressed mine out and there was a lot of resistance. The two 5mm plates i was resting under either side of the adjusters bent before the adjuster cracked out.
'68 BUG build(Racing)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85509
69Baja
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88798
Manx(MaxFX)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88799&page=1#pid826884

Aussie Dubbin Fahrvergnugen

895 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#868412
So guys its a pretty healthy discussion which i great.
I will not just be setting my camber at the notch forward position, or max camber, or min camber. I hope to have some changes over time.

let me put it another way...
If i use the hole as the point if importance/ reference point and discuss how it would change through the following clock position if 12 oclock is straight ahead to the front of the car, parallel with the center tunnel.


Left hand side;
3 oclock will give me the least amount of camber through this nut adjustment
9 oclock will give me the most camber (read as about 4 or 5* negative on my car)
'68 BUG build(Racing)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85509
69Baja
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88798
Manx(MaxFX)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88799&page=1#pid826884

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#868413
My original ones used to be easy to move but now they look like part of the ball joint.. YIKES..

LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Aussie Dubbin Fahrvergnugen

895 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#868414
If i set my nut to 12 oclock i have reduced my wheel base (the tiniest bit) right?
adversley if i set it to 6 oclock then i have lengthen the wheelbase right?

So which would be preferable? Suggesting yuo set each side to the same amount/rotation...

Is it of little consequence as the major castor change has come through the angle of the car and the number of castor shims.
'68 BUG build(Racing)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85509
69Baja
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88798
Manx(MaxFX)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88799&page=1#pid826884

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#868437
Aussie Dubbin wrote:Mate, i just put my olld ones for a few months before i bought the new one and greased it up, but it still seized on. They are a bugger to seperate. If you are replacing the ball jint you can heat the nut up with a decent oxy, and give it a decent crack, otherwise i pressed mine out and there was a lot of resistance. The two 5mm plates i was resting under either side of the adjusters bent before the adjuster cracked out.
mmm yeah, they can be tight, I normally use a tie rod end removal tool or press if the arms out.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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