Alright, I'll try it out in the morning Lee.
If all else fails, I know a mate has a multimeter and we'll go through it as thorough as possible.
I just want these damn lights on there already working.
A days worth of work wasted as the only outcome was that she has new fenders on and lights that are /semi/ working.
if I was on holidays in adelaide I would have come over and fixed them
I'm sure there isn't anything wrong with your brake switch
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Lee, you're right, there were two extra wires on the LHS that were used as grounds.
If I connect the brown wire from the light bulb housing to one of these wires, will that ground both light assemblies or do I need to do to both sides?
Before, was only LHS...
I'm thinking that those go to both lights
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I'll have to investigate tomorrow morning.
One went to the engine tinware and the other went to bumper bracket mount if I remember correctly.
I'm pretty sure that there was only a ground on the LHS though, if they were the ground anyway.
that sounds a bit odd...
you only need one earth wire
so, maybe you have a spare wire on the rhs???
anyway..
if only the lhs works
connect one to the rhs
it looks like you have the power ok..
just no earth
Lee
cheers
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Alright, so I have grounded everything and looks okay.
Although, I am pretty sure my battery is drained.
My starter motor isn't even cranking over.
But my taillights still work, and indicators, and everything else in the car. So there is still some juice...
Could it be because I grounded both assemblies to the same piece of tinware and that is causing an issue with the starter motor?
Sorry for all my noob questions, I'm trying to learn as much as possible as quickly as possible so I can fix it tonight along with replacing my brake master cylinder with a new one.
Thanks again to all that have lended me a hand!
Hi Sebastien
no, it doesn't matter where You earth out the tail lamps...
and it seems Your battery needs charging...
due to You testing out the lights..
the starter motor needs a full battery charge to work..
You can start Your car by having someone push it...
You put it in 2nd gear clutch in... key on..
when You get the car moving as fast as you can
You let out the clutch suddenly and push the accelerator pedal down.. and it should start...
Important part..
then push the clutch in.. and hit the brakes,,, unless You want to keep driving...
You will need to drive it for at least 10 minutes to recharge the battery.. so You can restart it next time..
Your generator won't charge with the engine idling... it needs to be revved to recharge Your battery..
next thing on Your list...
buy a battery charger...
I use mine a lot as I don't drive My car all the time...
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Sebastian give me a call 0415 539 554 im sure it can be fixed without an electrician bill. Where do you live in adelaide? i might be able to come over tonight.
In the next posts i run through what i would check.
So do you have a cheap currency trester? If not you can make one with a simple bulb, run current via a spare wire ( i suggest about 1-3 foot long) then simply hold the wire onto the base of the globe, earth the side of the globe out on some exposed body metal, then use the other end to see if there is current at any connector by pressing the exposed end onto the connector. If there is power it will light up. CRUDE tooling but if you dont have one it helps.
OK Brake wiring is simple when you understand what is happening.
Power comes from the battery to the dash via a high power wire and sreads throughout the fuse box from there. One wire from the fuse box will go directly to the master cylinder. You need to chase this wire (not remove it just find it) from here you can test the master cylinder end to see if there is current running. This line is constantly powered just waiting to be earthed. Pull the ruber boot off and one side should be powered.
If your lucky there is power her. If there is
Get a mate to put his foot on the pedal and this should "Bridge" the two pins and when the brake is applied there should be power at both sides.
If so then go to the rear of the car and see if there is power at the rear line anywhere.
You need to chase the power and see where it stops. Use the lamp tool i suggested above. If you lose power anywehere you will know where you need to sort. I've got a class to teach but i can easily help you out i'm sure.
Just remember the power is already at the master cylinder and trying to be earthed. All you have to do is connect an uninterrupted line formt he m/c to the lights grounded point and you will have power.
Hope that helps give me a call
Hey Aussie Dubbin,
Just gave you a call and left you a voicemail.
I'm at work at the moment but will be home around 5pm.
If you can, give me a call back when you get the chance, left my number in the voicemail.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Seb
PS, I don't have anything. I'd really like it if you could come around and lend a hand.
I'm situated in Glynde (Near Kmart Firle). Like I said, give me a buzz back when you can.
Alrighty, after a chat to Aussie Dubbin this afternoon,
I thought I'd investigate more into the brake master cylinder.
This is it's current state.
I also, well, this isn't plugged in anywhere?
Oh, also found that I had a fuel filter under here as well, woot!
And I figured that I had the three bolt pattern on the front springs. Means I can get some lowered ones.
Don't stress bout the unused plug, Zelda's just had a new mastercylinder at some stage and new one is non genuine.
Originals had a brake light switch on front and rear circuits, alot of aftermarket m/c only have one on the fronts so theres nothing for that plug.
Leak is coming from the feed from the reservoir it's just whether its the rubber hose splitting or the rubber grommet.
follow aussie dubbin's advice, I always find if you work through these things systematically, you will find the problem. Normally i start at the battery with a multi meter or globe tester and work from there, following the problem. if you jump about, you will just chase your tail. Simple thinngs like said above, check at the brake pressure switch, then out from the brake pressure, then at the lights, then out from the lights etc etc.....
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
check out the blue hose which may have split...
its only the brake fluid feed pipe...
you could replace the blue hose with something else till you get some... there isn't any pressure there...
unlikely you need a new brake master cylinder
Lee
PS. did you get all your lights to work??
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Lee, already bought a new brake master cylinder, that is somewhat awkward...
I'll invest in a new hose when I get some time over the weekend.
Nah, still haven't gotten all the lights to work, need to test as Aussie Dubbin has mentioned, but he might be coming over on the weekend to lend a hand if he gets the chance.
Thanks again!
