thanks Johnno
Looks good
I will take these photos to Midas and show them
would you change anything at all ?
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
ej22 throttle body and a 71 lowlight bus
chellejohno Slammed & Awesome Dubber
78 posts · joined Feb 2011 ·
Regarding the exhaust, no I don't think so, it's tucked up pretty well and it's nice and quiet. The only thing I don't know is whether it's legal to have it exiting there, think it's ok because it's behind the door opening.Sunnyjim wrote:thanks Johnno
Looks good
I will take these photos to Midas and show them
would you change anything at all ?
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
johhno
thx mate
midas here we come
thx mate
midas here we come
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Hi all
this thread had been about my sons ej22 lowlight but I got a bit of work done on ej22 76 bus.
I got a low km Japan import motor put in. nice quiet no smoke and no head gasket issues.
However temps are spiking up to 120. I have heard so many times subies are notorious for air locks. This i really believe now .
I am pretty sure the issue is the rubber hoses in the heater circuit. Sometimes I feel them and they are cold but the upper rad hose is quite warm. I tried to bleed the heater circuit then find it takes a while to get flow.
I found a few things. The stat looked old cruddy and rubber tangled so i replaced that. Then i realized the heater circuit had an on off tap .this is a big no no.so i took that out.
then i found out there is no fill point to the heater circuit. So i put one in.
As I have lpg the Po has put a another pair of rubber hoses to the lpg manifold in parallel with the heater circuit.
I am wondering if it is better to make one big series loop. I have an idea with parallel circuits the air lock can hide.
The PO also had an expansion tank from a Daewoo but when it reached pressure it didn't spit to a recovery tank it just spills to the ground via the plastic radiator cap.
I have now put in a aluminum expansion tank with a 1.3 bar cap. This will now spit to a plastic washer bottle
As I have to rework all this ,How many fill points should I have. ? Or just one to the heater circuit?
Good advice welcome
this thread had been about my sons ej22 lowlight but I got a bit of work done on ej22 76 bus.
I got a low km Japan import motor put in. nice quiet no smoke and no head gasket issues.
However temps are spiking up to 120. I have heard so many times subies are notorious for air locks. This i really believe now .
I am pretty sure the issue is the rubber hoses in the heater circuit. Sometimes I feel them and they are cold but the upper rad hose is quite warm. I tried to bleed the heater circuit then find it takes a while to get flow.
I found a few things. The stat looked old cruddy and rubber tangled so i replaced that. Then i realized the heater circuit had an on off tap .this is a big no no.so i took that out.
then i found out there is no fill point to the heater circuit. So i put one in.
As I have lpg the Po has put a another pair of rubber hoses to the lpg manifold in parallel with the heater circuit.
I am wondering if it is better to make one big series loop. I have an idea with parallel circuits the air lock can hide.
The PO also had an expansion tank from a Daewoo but when it reached pressure it didn't spit to a recovery tank it just spills to the ground via the plastic radiator cap.
I have now put in a aluminum expansion tank with a 1.3 bar cap. This will now spit to a plastic washer bottle
As I have to rework all this ,How many fill points should I have. ? Or just one to the heater circuit?
Good advice welcome
chellejohno Slammed & Awesome Dubber
78 posts · joined Feb 2011 ·
Hey Paul,
Good to see your still alive! It's been a while.
As you know I'm no expert, but am wondering if your expansion tank filler is at the highest point in the system?
As for the LPG circuit, my thoughts would be, the less complicated the better, so thru the LPG and heater in the one circuit.
Cheers Johno
Good to see your still alive! It's been a while.
As you know I'm no expert, but am wondering if your expansion tank filler is at the highest point in the system?
As for the LPG circuit, my thoughts would be, the less complicated the better, so thru the LPG and heater in the one circuit.
Cheers Johno
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Johnno
slowly plodding along. I really need a week or 2 so I can get stuck in.
If I remember your conversion you didn't suffer from air locks.
Can you describe to me your cooling set up?
How many fill points do you have?
slowly plodding along. I really need a week or 2 so I can get stuck in.
If I remember your conversion you didn't suffer from air locks.
Can you describe to me your cooling set up?
How many fill points do you have?
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Well today was a good day.
The cooling worked well. Didn't go much past 85.I didn't have to rearrange the cooling plumbing as i was thinking. It looks as though i have finally got the air out.
So far the moral of the story is just when you think you have got the air out let it cool down and bring it up to temp again a few times. Do this cycle over and over. the air eventually comes out.
I now have a sealed system. The rad cap will spit into the overflow bottle then i have noticed it draws it back in when cooling down
The cooling worked well. Didn't go much past 85.I didn't have to rearrange the cooling plumbing as i was thinking. It looks as though i have finally got the air out.
So far the moral of the story is just when you think you have got the air out let it cool down and bring it up to temp again a few times. Do this cycle over and over. the air eventually comes out.
I now have a sealed system. The rad cap will spit into the overflow bottle then i have noticed it draws it back in when cooling down
lolight70 Commited Dubber
63 posts · joined Aug 2013 ·
Hi
Had a good look thru your post,very informative,i have a low light as well and thinking of going ej22 as well.
One question i have re idling high,are u using a jdm or adm ecu?
What about the harness?
Did they all come from the same donor car?
Is your ecu from an ej22?
Japan had an ej20 quad cam from the same era that we never got,im sure the ecus look the same and have the same 4 plug set up
There are quite a few differences between similar models from oz and Japan,
Mismatching can lead to issues that are a pita to solve.
Hope you solve your issues soon.
Chris
Had a good look thru your post,very informative,i have a low light as well and thinking of going ej22 as well.
One question i have re idling high,are u using a jdm or adm ecu?
What about the harness?
Did they all come from the same donor car?
Is your ecu from an ej22?
Japan had an ej20 quad cam from the same era that we never got,im sure the ecus look the same and have the same 4 plug set up
There are quite a few differences between similar models from oz and Japan,
Mismatching can lead to issues that are a pita to solve.
Hope you solve your issues soon.
Chris
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Hi Chris
I am using a stock subie ecu. I sent my harness up to am auto noosa For a few hundred dollars they stripped it and labelled it so it is easy for me to install. It is also important to wire in a engine check light therefore bedding able to interpret codes.
re the engine mount I found a subie cross member and used that.
I think it best to get all bits from the one donor that eliminates potential problems.
Good luck in 2015 with your project.
I am using a stock subie ecu. I sent my harness up to am auto noosa For a few hundred dollars they stripped it and labelled it so it is easy for me to install. It is also important to wire in a engine check light therefore bedding able to interpret codes.
re the engine mount I found a subie cross member and used that.
I think it best to get all bits from the one donor that eliminates potential problems.
Good luck in 2015 with your project.
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Hi All
It has been a while since I had time to work on sunnyjim but I got stuck into the other day .
Quick summary of where I was
Engine in , wired ok , got some codes finally sorted. New knock sensor. I almost had the cooling done with twin rads in the engine bay but and I noticed I had a slight leak in on one of the rads.
So I have prepared and bought new bigger ones with bigger fans.
I noticed this sludge at hose connections on the old rads
Does anyone now what it and what causes it?quite thick in some areas.
I have been using the green supercheap coolant
It has been a while since I had time to work on sunnyjim but I got stuck into the other day .
Quick summary of where I was
Engine in , wired ok , got some codes finally sorted. New knock sensor. I almost had the cooling done with twin rads in the engine bay but and I noticed I had a slight leak in on one of the rads.
So I have prepared and bought new bigger ones with bigger fans.
I noticed this sludge at hose connections on the old rads
Does anyone now what it and what causes it?quite thick in some areas.
I have been using the green supercheap coolant
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Gday Paul,
I'm wondering if the original Subaru donor had some sort of radiator stop leak put through it and that's just the remnants from the coolant galleries.
I'm wondering if the original Subaru donor had some sort of radiator stop leak put through it and that's just the remnants from the coolant galleries.
chellejohno Slammed & Awesome Dubber
78 posts · joined Feb 2011 ·
Geez Paul, that's scary! Give it a good flush out and have another go, I agree with Joel, it must be something that was already in the block.....I hope
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Joel and Johhno
Thanks for the replies. suggestion that the PO put some stop leak could make sense as i don't know the engine history.
i want to flush the engine before installing the new radiators.
The easiest way seems to me to run the garden hose in and out of the engine avoiding the new radiators. as i would only do this for a few minutes do you think this is OK?
anyway new bigger rads installed today . Not plumbed yet.
Thanks for the replies. suggestion that the PO put some stop leak could make sense as i don't know the engine history.
i want to flush the engine before installing the new radiators.
The easiest way seems to me to run the garden hose in and out of the engine avoiding the new radiators. as i would only do this for a few minutes do you think this is OK?
anyway new bigger rads installed today . Not plumbed yet.
chellejohno Slammed & Awesome Dubber
78 posts · joined Feb 2011 ·
Hey Paul,
They look the same as my radiators, are the the honda ones?
The only thing I've done different is with the rad on the drivers side, mines the other way round.
They look the same as my radiators, are the the honda ones?
The only thing I've done different is with the rad on the drivers side, mines the other way round.
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
johnno
yes Honda civic
here is the other side
yes Honda civic
here is the other side
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
I put that down to mixed coolant brands/type. Even happens when not flushing the old stuff out properly before adding new stuff thats different to what was there before.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
vlad
that is good to know about mixing brands.
i had a second look at the green stuff i am using at i now see it clearly says "not for alloy engines after 1984 "
as my ej22 is 1994 i guess i need to switch coolant
that is good to know about mixing brands.
i had a second look at the green stuff i am using at i now see it clearly says "not for alloy engines after 1984 "
as my ej22 is 1994 i guess i need to switch coolant
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
vlad
that is good to know about mixing brands.
i had a second look at the green stuff i am using at i now see it clearly says "not for alloy engines after 1984 "
as my ej22 is 1994 i guess i need to switch coolant
that is good to know about mixing brands.
i had a second look at the green stuff i am using at i now see it clearly says "not for alloy engines after 1984 "
as my ej22 is 1994 i guess i need to switch coolant
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
I wouldn't touch any supercheap crap. I would recommend flushing the whole system with clean water with stat removed, do it few times.
refill with water and add coolant system flushing additive, run for 100k or so. dump it and flush few times again as above, then flush with distilled water once.
Add a good coolant such as nulon, tectalloy or penrite of the correct type at the correct concentrations for the engine and mix with distilled water only.
check for stray current with system full of distilled water before filling with coolant is a wise idea.
hope that is of help.
refill with water and add coolant system flushing additive, run for 100k or so. dump it and flush few times again as above, then flush with distilled water once.
Add a good coolant such as nulon, tectalloy or penrite of the correct type at the correct concentrations for the engine and mix with distilled water only.
check for stray current with system full of distilled water before filling with coolant is a wise idea.
hope that is of help.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
vlad
i will try some nulon or penrite.
How is the best way to flush the engine?
i have 2 new radiators that i want to avoid getting the old sludge through . i was thinking of hosing the inlet and outlet of the engine block?
What would you advise?
i will try some nulon or penrite.
How is the best way to flush the engine?
i have 2 new radiators that i want to avoid getting the old sludge through . i was thinking of hosing the inlet and outlet of the engine block?
What would you advise?
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
take the thermostat out and use a garden hose to flush it. run it through what ever end is convenient until it runs clear, good to go the other way as often crap comes out better if you flush alternatively from end to end.
to flush with distilled water, put the system together fill, run and then drop the lowest hose and let it run out, obviously not with the engine running.
The distilled water is the last stage before the final fill of coolant. I would fill it with normal water and the flushing additive and run the engine around for a bit ( what ever it says on the bottle, 100km?), use the new radiators so you dont get crap going in to the engine.
to flush with distilled water, put the system together fill, run and then drop the lowest hose and let it run out, obviously not with the engine running.
The distilled water is the last stage before the final fill of coolant. I would fill it with normal water and the flushing additive and run the engine around for a bit ( what ever it says on the bottle, 100km?), use the new radiators so you dont get crap going in to the engine.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Vlad
Ok flushing sounds easy enough.
Today i got the new radiators plumbed in. I have an aeropro inline radiator cap as a fill point, it is at the highest point .
Now i read it is important to allow the heater circuit to vent air bubbles.
But what exactly is the best way to do this? What is the ideal way to plumb ? I have seen some diagrams on a USA Vanagon site shows the expansion tank is in series with the heater Circuit. this means that all heater circuit Coolant goes in and out if the expansion tank. I have also read Someone else just tapped one line (not 2 ) from the expansion tank down into the healer circuit
2 different approaches but I t think both allow the possibility of air bubbles escaping from the heater circuit upwards and out.
.
Ok flushing sounds easy enough.
Today i got the new radiators plumbed in. I have an aeropro inline radiator cap as a fill point, it is at the highest point .
Now i read it is important to allow the heater circuit to vent air bubbles.
But what exactly is the best way to do this? What is the ideal way to plumb ? I have seen some diagrams on a USA Vanagon site shows the expansion tank is in series with the heater Circuit. this means that all heater circuit Coolant goes in and out if the expansion tank. I have also read Someone else just tapped one line (not 2 ) from the expansion tank down into the healer circuit
2 different approaches but I t think both allow the possibility of air bubbles escaping from the heater circuit upwards and out.
.
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Gday Paul,
If you're filler cap is in one of the main lines and is high enough then there is no need to have a bleeder on the heater circuit as well.
I just run a simple hose loop on mine as my header tank on the top hose is the highest point and bleeds any air out
I wouldnt run Supercheap coolant either.
I've run Tectaloy in mine since day 1, both the second EJ22 which was in for over 40,000kms and the current EJ25 are still perfect inside from running on it.
Whne I had the gearbox out last year I flushed the whole system and was really happy with how clean it was.
If you're filler cap is in one of the main lines and is high enough then there is no need to have a bleeder on the heater circuit as well.
I just run a simple hose loop on mine as my header tank on the top hose is the highest point and bleeds any air out
I wouldnt run Supercheap coolant either.
I've run Tectaloy in mine since day 1, both the second EJ22 which was in for over 40,000kms and the current EJ25 are still perfect inside from running on it.
Whne I had the gearbox out last year I flushed the whole system and was really happy with how clean it was.
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
hi Joel
Thanks for shedding some light. i will do as you say and just put a simple short loop on the heater circuit.
Thanks for shedding some light. i will do as you say and just put a simple short loop on the heater circuit.
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
this ej22 conversion has sat for a while, and i now i cant get the engine started.
I took all the plugs out cleaned them and put 'them back in. I can see spark at 1 one them ( didnt check all 4 of them)
It appears that I have fuel pressure. I hear the normal fuel pump whirring sound at start up. I also used the green test connectors , it cycled power to the igition and fuel pump relays, it cycled the fans on and I could also feel the pressure surge in the fuel lines.
can some one offer some advice as a next step?
I took all the plugs out cleaned them and put 'them back in. I can see spark at 1 one them ( didnt check all 4 of them)
It appears that I have fuel pressure. I hear the normal fuel pump whirring sound at start up. I also used the green test connectors , it cycled power to the igition and fuel pump relays, it cycled the fans on and I could also feel the pressure surge in the fuel lines.
can some one offer some advice as a next step?
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Even though the fuel pump is running the injectors may not be firing.
Usually you can hear them clicking but you could use a test light on the wires, from memory there is a 12volts at them and the ECU sends a ground pulse
Usually you can hear them clicking but you could use a test light on the wires, from memory there is a 12volts at them and the ECU sends a ground pulse
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Hi Joel
thanks for the reply
I will do as u suggest look at the injectors.
I don't have a noid light. Is there anything special about the noid light? I guess I could just wire up a 12 volt LED to check it?
Also I couldn't interpret the CEL. with the black read connector connected I see just a regular flashing with no pause. So this does not seem to be any of the codes from 11 to 52.
thanks for the reply
I will do as u suggest look at the injectors.
I don't have a noid light. Is there anything special about the noid light? I guess I could just wire up a 12 volt LED to check it?
Also I couldn't interpret the CEL. with the black read connector connected I see just a regular flashing with no pause. So this does not seem to be any of the codes from 11 to 52.
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
A steady flash is the all is ok signal, there's no codes stored in the memory
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
joel
thanks for that confirmation. I must have missed that in my haynes
paul
thanks for that confirmation. I must have missed that in my haynes
paul
Sunnyjim Officially Full-On Dubber
239 posts · joined Jan 2010 ·
Joel and all
It has me stumped.
I made up a test light and checked each injector harness . all 4 flashed meaning the ECU was supplying the correct grounding signal. Of course that doesnt prove the injector itself but unlikley all 4 are buggered. still when I get a helper can I check by feeling each one click?
I also removed the fuel supply hose from the inlet and put it into a coke bottle . After cranking a bit I soon have 250ml of fuel, so fuel looks to be flowing. That doesnt mean the fuel is not crap'but I think it is more likely it will run rough rather than not start at all?( happy to be corrected on this ) I also sprayed some start ya bastard down the manifold - no kick
as I have a working ej25 in a 76 bus I was abel to swap a few parts , swapped the ign and fuel pump relays. swapped the igniter , they all tested ok
mmm. where to from here? me thinks a big whisky might help🙁
It has me stumped.
I made up a test light and checked each injector harness . all 4 flashed meaning the ECU was supplying the correct grounding signal. Of course that doesnt prove the injector itself but unlikley all 4 are buggered. still when I get a helper can I check by feeling each one click?
I also removed the fuel supply hose from the inlet and put it into a coke bottle . After cranking a bit I soon have 250ml of fuel, so fuel looks to be flowing. That doesnt mean the fuel is not crap'but I think it is more likely it will run rough rather than not start at all?( happy to be corrected on this ) I also sprayed some start ya bastard down the manifold - no kick
as I have a working ej25 in a 76 bus I was abel to swap a few parts , swapped the ign and fuel pump relays. swapped the igniter , they all tested ok
mmm. where to from here? me thinks a big whisky might help🙁