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Fuel tank repair

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Aussie Officially Full-On Dubber

296 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#926611
Seems my fuel tank has a very small leak around the threaded fitting at the base. What is the best way to repair? I am assuming something like brazing would be best. What about the repair epoxy type stuff from super cheap etc?

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#926619
I have brazed a couple up with good resalts, it would be permanent repair if done correctly.

20bkombi Wolfsburg Wizard

597 posts · joined Mar 2009 ·

#926637
Could take it to a radiator shop they soldered some fittings on to my bus tank. Was $30 for 3 fittings
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gordysbeetle Seriously Crusin Dubber

125 posts · joined Jun 2011 ·

#926642
soldering is the safest way. brazing uses a naked flame, to use this method you must purge the tank.

Aussie Officially Full-On Dubber

296 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#926650
20bkombi wrote:Could take it to a radiator shop they soldered some fittings on to my bus tank. Was $30 for 3 fittings
Where abouts did you take it? Was it on the coast?

Aussie Officially Full-On Dubber

296 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#926653
gordysbeetle wrote:soldering is the safest way. brazing uses a naked flame, to use this method you must purge the tank.
I am guessing this is different to standard electrical solder?

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#926654
simply block the filler neck up and fill the tank with water, just leave the part that needs repair out of the water. worked every time.

psimitar Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,506 posts · joined Jan 2009 ·

#926664
vwo60 wrote:simply block the filler neck up and fill the tank with water, just leave the part that needs repair out of the water. worked every time.
^^^WHS.

Solder isn't really meant for long term exposure to such a corrosive liquid so brazing is the best way to do it and how they would have done it back in the 50-60's. Even welding can be done on a tank using the water method following a good few washes and flushes with degreaser and washing up liquid.
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HappyDaze Superannuated

2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·

#926676
vwo60 wrote:simply block the filler neck up and fill the tank with water, just leave the part that needs repair out of the water. worked every time.
Doesn't work EVERY time, trust me! Tank MUST be purged, as gordysbeetle says.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#926686
Worked every time for me. simply filling the tank with water is actually purging it as it displaces all the flamable gas.

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#926688
HappyDaze wrote:
vwo60 wrote:simply block the filler neck up and fill the tank with water, just leave the part that needs repair out of the water. worked every time.
Doesn't work EVERY time, trust me! Tank MUST be purged, as gordysbeetle says.
IMO a recipe for a trip to the hospital. This is NOT 100% fail safe. I've heard of them still exploding using this method. Beware!
vwo60 wrote:Worked every time for me. simply filling the tank with water is actually purging it as it displaces all the flamable gas.
Aparently there is some residual gasses/compounds that stay. Even if it's only 1 in a hundred......I wouldn't take the chance.

Use epoxy putty or POR 15 tank repair kit or get a professional to do it.

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Lucky Phil Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Aug 2010 ·

#926693
Even a washed tank can explode when welding as the heat drives fuel from the pores of the metal.
Proper preparation prior to welding a tank requires HOT pressure cleaning for a decent period of time. Like an hour or more.
Even then, danger is still there. Best to fill it with an inert gas like nitrogen.
I have heard of people hooking a hose to the tailpipe of a running car and purging the air that way.
May be okay in an emergency, but I wouldn't want to risk it myself.

I would just buy a kit from POR15 and seal the entire tank forever.
No rust, no holes. What more could you want?