| [ Total Views: 4851 | Total Replies: 56 | Thread Id: 43283 ] |
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 72RSbug
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| posted on October 19th, 2005 at 08:57 PM |
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casting isn't superb but but it's "pretty" enough for what it is intended for. I myself have thought about polishing the sump but after just
having done my set of 18" BBS Le Mans wheels I think I'll take a brake from polishing.
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jvl054
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| posted on October 19th, 2005 at 09:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by reub-revhead
Got my sump today from Ratbug (aka Andrew).
I can see the work involved in these but am a little disappointed in the casting quality. Hopefully this improves with time. Just as well my car is
low so people won't be getting underneath looking for detail. Will help alot just the same.
Apologies if I sound harsh, just doesn't look as good in person, probably like my car :o
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Send it back,nothing worst if not happy with a product and pay good money for.JVLRacing
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reub
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| posted on October 19th, 2005 at 11:51 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by jvl054
Send it back,nothing worst if not happy with a product and pay good money for.JVLRacing
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Nah, it'll be ok. Saves me having to go through the pain of shortening a standard sump, and I've got it now.
Reub
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ricola
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| posted on October 20th, 2005 at 01:05 AM |
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I'm surprised you need to shorten your sump with the engine that high Reub!
You have U2U 
Rich
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reub
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| posted on October 20th, 2005 at 08:30 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ricola
I'm surprised you need to shorten your sump with the engine that high Reub!
You have U2U
Rich
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Yeah, but have you seen the height of my car? I've got about 110mm clear to the sump currently and a little more clearance would give piece of
mind.....
Here is a pic of the sump. To the right hand side you can see holes that return underneath. I trust there are no air bubbles in the casting other than
the external ones.
[ Edited on 19-10-2005 by reub-revhead ]
Reub
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Jenny
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| posted on October 20th, 2005 at 08:38 AM |
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I've gone over mine with the sander to give it that 'milled finish' look and I'm quite happy with that, but yes it would take a lot of effort to
get a polished finish.
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bugat5speed
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| posted on October 20th, 2005 at 05:46 PM |
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@reub-revhead:
Hi, the sumps are sand-casted. By this they are a little more rough, than casted in a steel mould. But for the quantities casted it´s the only
economical way to do it. A price of 600 - 700 Euro would definitely not be accepted. What you see on the picture are no bubbles. And it should not
concern you. The fins in the sand mould sometimes break out a little by taking the mould out of the sand. Then it happens that there is a little
grinding mark in the sumps. Don´t worry, that it is leaking there. I test all sumps before they are sent out. And be sure, those which took the long
way to AUS are doublechecked. Besides it would be the first leaking sump that I ever had.
@jvl054: What´s the problem, that you ask customers to send back my products. Have you got a problem with my sumps, or is it only so, that due to
language barriers I do missunderstand you? If it is so, then I do appologize. If not, then please stop this!
Cheers Martin
[ Edited on 20-10-2005 by bugat5speed ]
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jvl054
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| posted on October 20th, 2005 at 06:38 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bugat5speed
@reub-revhead:
Hi, the sumps are sand-casted. By this they are a little more rough, than casted in a steel mould. But for the quantities casted it´s the only
economical way to do it. A price of 600 - 700 Euro would definitely not be accepted. What you see on the picture are no bubbles. And it should not
concern you. The fins in the sand mould sometimes break out a little by taking the mould out of the sand. Then it happens that there is a little
grinding mark in the sumps. Don´t worry, that it is leaking there. I test all sumps before they are sent out. And be sure, those which took the long
way to AUS are doublechecked. Besides it would be the first leaking sump that I ever had.
@jvl054: What´s the problem, that you ask customers to send back my products. Have you got a problem with my sumps, or is it only so, that due to
language barriers I do missunderstand you? If it is so, then I do appologize. If not, then please stop this!
Cheers Martin
[ Edited on 20-10-2005 by bugat5speed ]
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Martin,I think your sumps are okay:thumb and you are having a go.I think you have missunderstood me:o no doubt.Looking at your
earlier pictures of your sumps...the casting is perfect.Last one that ive just seen on here and commented on was no where near the quality of the
others....Lets put the shoe on the other foot,would you be happy to have that!..or are you happy to sell that and hear comments like this!..This is
your creditation Martin...JVLRacing
[ Edited on 20/10/2005 by jvl054 ]
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on October 20th, 2005 at 10:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bugat5speed
@reub-revhead:
Hi, the sumps are sand-casted. By this they are a little more rough, than casted in a steel mould. But for the quantities casted it´s the only
economical way to do it. A price of 600 - 700 Euro would definitely not be accepted. What you see on the picture are no bubbles. And it should not
concern you. The fins in the sand mould sometimes break out a little by taking the mould out of the sand. Then it happens that there is a little
grinding mark in the sumps. Don´t worry, that it is leaking there. I test all sumps before they are sent out. And be sure, those which took the long
way to AUS are doublechecked. Besides it would be the first leaking sump that I ever had.
@jvl054: What´s the problem, that you ask customers to send back my products. Have you got a problem with my sumps, or is it only so, that due to
language barriers I do missunderstand you? If it is so, then I do appologize. If not, then please stop this!
Cheers Martin
[ Edited on 20-10-2005 by bugat5speed ]
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Hey man don't take it personally. I fully understand where JVL054 is coming from... I can't tell you how many times i've bought aftermarket VW
products that turned out to be that badly manufacturerd I couldn't possibly use them on my car.
That being said, I'm sure that a lot of other people have no problem with stuff I consider to be junk.
I can think if carbs, disc brake systems, endless amounts of chrome trim, the list goes on.... All stuff that was that badly made, or fitted that
badly it was a joke!
In the end what it all comes down to when your building a customised car, if you don't like the quality of something you've bought you will ALWAYS
end up haivng to replace it down the track, so why pay twice.
Dam I'd love to list some brand names here, but I doubt EMPI or SCAT read the Aussie vee dubbers forum...
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bugat5speed
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| posted on October 21st, 2005 at 03:15 AM |
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Hey boys,
to bring this discussion to an end from my side. The oilsumps Jenny or 72RSbug have are of the same quality like the one reub-revhead has received.
They all look like that one on the surface. The one reub-revhead has, has a small flaw in a clearance between two fins. You will never see it. Only if
you lay under the car and if you are in the very same direction like these two fins, that are left and right of the grinding mark. Each 3rd or 4th of
my sumps has such a little flaw. It´s very tricky to cast these fins in a sand casting process. The sand easily breaks óut, when you take the model
out of the mould (sand).
None of my sumps ever had leakages due to bubbles in the casted material. Each sump fits perfectly to the bolt pattern of the Subaru engine.
Perhaps Jenny and 72RSbug will give a final comment on their impressions of the sumps.
All the reworked original and shortened Subaru sumps that I´ve ever seen mainly look unprofessional and if you have such a thing on your car, then
you can start discussing about optical problems. Most comments I´ve yet heard from customers were of satisfied nature.
Don´t want to leave a bit of a bad taste on my sumps.
Cheers Martin
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on October 21st, 2005 at 05:36 AM |
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HI Martin, can u give us some pics or a link of the vw that runs around the Numbring track, I'd really like to see it.
regards
Jak
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jvl054
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| posted on October 21st, 2005 at 01:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bugat5speed
Hey boys,
to bring this discussion to an end from my side. The oilsumps Jenny or 72RSbug have are of the same quality like the one reub-revhead has received.
They all look like that one on the surface. The one reub-revhead has, has a small flaw in a clearance between two fins. You will never see it. Only if
you lay under the car and if you are in the very same direction like these two fins, that are left and right of the grinding mark. Each 3rd or 4th of
my sumps has such a little flaw. It´s very tricky to cast these fins in a sand casting process. The sand easily breaks óut, when you take the model
out of the mould (sand).
None of my sumps ever had leakages due to bubbles in the casted material. Each sump fits perfectly to the bolt pattern of the Subaru engine.
Perhaps Jenny and 72RSbug will give a final comment on their impressions of the sumps.
All the reworked original and shortened Subaru sumps that I´ve ever seen mainly look unprofessional and if you have such a thing on your car, then
you can start discussing about optical problems. Most comments I´ve yet heard from customers were of satisfied nature.
Don´t want to leave a bit of a bad taste on my sumps.
Cheers Martin
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Martin,My dad(30year exp) is a Moulder and i use to just watch how they pulled out there plugs.Dad use to say WATER and COMPRESSION
of the sand is the key to a good mould.If ther looked like air pockets in the mould they would break them up.....MARTIN you quoted most sumps look
unproffessional....well mind doesnt look shiney like yours,but holds more oil and Baffled to stop oil surge.with a mod pick up....Thers no bad taste
here on your sumps Cheers JVLRacing
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Jenny
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| posted on October 24th, 2005 at 12:48 PM |
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OF the two sumps that I received, the one I sent to Andrew was the 'worst' because he said his was going on his buggy and it would probably get
bashed up a bit anyway, unfortunately it didn't fit due to his crossmember so he sold it on to Reub.
You can see from the picture I posted previously that mine does not have the casting marks on the fins. I'm certainly happy with it and believe I got
what I payed for: an alloy sump that bolts up to the Suby motor and gives increased ground clearance for my lowslung Eureka with pleasing asthetics.
Granted it is not show quality but then again if I'd wanted that I would have spent $1200 and bought the one from MRT Rally.
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Louis
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| posted on November 7th, 2005 at 09:31 AM |
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#! Message No Longer Available !# |
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jvl054
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| posted on November 7th, 2005 at 11:45 AM |
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So louis,what dont i know ?JVLRacing
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on November 7th, 2005 at 10:45 PM |
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Congratulations VDubya (Louis) on continuing with your constructive input - and you wonder why your posts get edited??
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MickH
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| posted on September 5th, 2006 at 01:36 PM |
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a
tssnq.com.au
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axel77
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| posted on September 6th, 2006 at 01:52 AM |
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I would like to bring up a point that I think is being overlooked here with shortening of sumps, the one of oil height in relation to the crank. It
is all well and good to raise the level of the base, weld on wings (or cast a new shape) but looking at the recalibrated dipstick in Jenny's car, and
mine also I got to thinking about how much closer the top level of the oil got to the engine. Having worked in the V8 supercar industry, and having
manufactured sumps that were designed with mesh scrapers and baffles, installed in order to stop the considerable horsepower losses that occur when
high speed cranks smack into a body of oil, I wonder if this aspect is being ignored especially under cornering. When I made my sump, I was very
aware to keep the 4.5L oil level below the original tinware intact near the top of the sump in an attempt to overcome this. Its been a while, but I
also seem to remember there being tinware above the sump mating face on the engine also? I'd be interested to hear peoples opinion on this,
especially COR and bugspeed and anyone in the motor racing industry.
Cheers, Axel.
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seagull
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| posted on September 6th, 2006 at 02:47 AM |
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I am looking at dry sumping mine as seen in some of the small planes about on the net .I have emailed a guy in the usa who has built a suabru turbo
plane , he has a great set up .
The water cooled oil cooler set up on the RS / WRX motors are also low for the vw set up , I would like to move that as well .
Most of the makers of these sumps over look the need of baffels & windage trays .
I did hear a few of the off roaders over here in Perth have damaged motors due to lack of oil pick up
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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seagull
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| posted on September 6th, 2006 at 02:51 AM |
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If some one has a great idea and has a pattern , I do high quality castings in my factory in Tiwan I would need some numbers to get a run done , say
40 uints
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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GeorgeL
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| posted on September 6th, 2006 at 01:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by axel77
I would like to bring up a point that I think is being overlooked here with shortening of sumps, the one of oil height in relation to the crank. It
is all well and good to raise the level of the base, weld on wings (or cast a new shape) but looking at the recalibrated dipstick in Jenny's car, and
mine also I got to thinking about how much closer the top level of the oil got to the engine.
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That's a good point. I wonder how close the crank throws come to the oil level when the engine is subject to the accelerations of driving and
cornering. I wouldn't be too concerned with a bus installation, but if you're going to throw a converted bug or kit car around you could get oil
starvation.
Subaru engineers did a prudent thing by making the sump as deep as possible for their stock application, and when we redesign their sumps we have to
be sure that we won't be starving our engines for oil.
Getting equal capacity is one thing, but if all the oil is stuck in one of the "wings" by cornering it could be a problem. You might be better off
with a narrower sump of less capacity!
George
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rubyred
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| posted on September 7th, 2006 at 11:13 AM |
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Why complicate things more with a dry sump? I mean, you can only squish the engine so much. After shortening the sump, its quite obvious that the
headers are the limiting point. If you use the Subaru brand oil filters, which are shorter than the normal ones, the headers are still the lowest
point.
And on the topic of oil height in relation to the crank. I think what he means is that, regardless of the wings, if you have to rescribe your
dipstick, your oil level is in fact closer to the crank than stock.
i have a shortened sump, but, i have been looking into the idea of raising the engine into the car. The offroad guys do it all the time. Keep the
front tranny at the same mount, but raise the rear mount, at the framehorns. Companys already make 1 inch lift mounts, so im probably going to try
that out.
-Ryan
[ Edited on 7/9/2006 by rubyred ]
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gull
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| posted on September 7th, 2006 at 11:32 AM |
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I have a set of flat headers
stock oil filter
+ its ok for you if you have a notch , wagon , or buggy , but how can one lift a motor in a bug ? I have my shifter going on top of my tunnel & I have
a 091 box
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on September 7th, 2006 at 01:10 PM |
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Hi
Something that has crossed my mind is that we are in fact running the motor and sump backwards, something the Subaru engineers didnt consider. I have
raised my motor 25 mm, I hope that this enough to allow me to keep the stock sump.
Steve
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GeorgeL
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| posted on September 7th, 2006 at 01:26 PM |
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I'm also pondering the idea of lifting the rear of the engine to allow the use of the stock sump. In a bus there is quite a bit of room above the
engine. I think that the first interference point is the transmission bell housing against the body under the fuel tank.
George
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rubyred
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| posted on September 7th, 2006 at 05:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by gull
I have a set of flat headers
stock oil filter
+ its ok for you if you have a notch , wagon , or buggy , but how can one lift a motor in a bug ? I have my shifter going on top of my tunnel & I have
a 091 box
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stock front mount means shift linkage dosnt change. I would think it would be harder in a notch than a bug considering you guys cut out your
firewalls. I have a trunk a couple inches above my turbo.
-Ryan
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malcolm
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| posted on September 7th, 2006 at 08:42 PM |
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steve you can lift the motor in a bug as long as you move it forward like you have ,I have moved my gearbox 75mm forward and lifted it 25-30mm higher
so the diff housing is protected by the gearbox folks .
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