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Author: Subject:  EJ22 Manx nearing completion
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posted on September 23rd, 2006 at 11:57 PM
EJ22 Manx nearing completion


EJ22 Manx nearing completion ,,,well a lot nearer than 3 years ago when i started it. lol

im just finishing off the body work now ..fiberglassing
still got to recalibrate the speedo.
paint it and some mags as well.

later mark :)

going to try and attach these photos .hopefully it works

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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 12:01 AM



well that uploaded ok so heres some more of it

[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 12:06 AM



and another

[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 12:24 AM



heres one of the exhaust 2.5 inch with two inch headers all made by yours truely
304 stainless with a cat from a sti subaru

i tried to keep the exhaust as close as possible to the engine so the back end didnt look to long.

i also tried to keep the exhaust and header pipes high so as it dosnt make the motor look to low against the body.

its got a sweet note in the high ranges and its nice and quite at idle and low revs.

[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 12:30 AM



looks good , One thing kids & hot mufflers & pipe work dont mix .



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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 12:32 AM



This is a kid safe car

EJ20turbo with a lift

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m315/seagull_03/subi005.jpg




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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 02:59 AM



I would not know your rules as your in QLD & I am in Perth .We are not required to have person covers on HOT bits .

Looks the part




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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 04:16 AM



nice job :spin: looks like you put a lot of work into that exhaust system!

I presume you are running the stock ECU and wiring? Was it much work getting the instrument cluster working as I will be using mine too?

Rich




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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 07:23 AM



Mark i would highly recomend some heat guards between the exhaust and your pully cover as Terrys Baja down here in Brissie also runs the exhaust close to the covers and when up the beach or long runs the heat transfer turns the cover to a molten puddle.



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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 09:01 AM



great work!



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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 09:44 AM



Looks like it's all going to plan!!! The pictures don't do it justice people...it is MUCH better in the flesh (when i last saw it anyway). Bet you can't wait to get it in the road.....good stuff !!:):thumb Hurry up !!!:P

[ Edited on 24-9-06 by Mick H ]




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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 11:44 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by A Westwood
Mark i would highly recomend some heat guards between the exhaust and your pully cover as Terrys Baja down here in Brissie also runs the exhaust close to the covers and when up the beach or long runs the heat transfer turns the cover to a molten puddle.


I was going to say the same thing. Terry's exhaust melted his plastic EJ22 timing belt covers.

Otherwise looks good :thumb

What colour you gunna paint it?

Oh, and what's your plan for calibrating the subaru speedo?

[ Edited on 24-9-2006 by Baja Wes ]




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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 07:39 PM



im gunna paint it yellow eventually with a white stripe.
and 16'' and 17'' mags
it will also be lower ,

as for the timing covers i havnt had any probs with them so far and ive had the pipes glowing with no air flow .
ive got a good 50-60mm air gap.
its something i had thought of doing later on when making the pipes ,but so far the heat transfer has been minimal.


the speedo im planing on adjusting the tension spring in the speedo. ill try it on another one ive got first.

ill use a battery drill in a standard vw speedo see what it reads
do the same in the subaru one and adjust it till it reads the same as the vw speedo.
and see what happens ,
at the moment they read like this

test 1 vw 43kph
subaru 36kph

test 2 vw 135kph
subaru 111kph

which is roughly a 1.1 to 1 difference
i may have to adjust it to allow for the new front wheel size to ,if theres much difference again it will be with the battery drill as the tester, then do the road test .get it to the same speed as the battery dril speed land get someone else driving behind me to tell me the speed.
then whip it back out and adjust it using the
battery drill as the tester again and get it to read the speed we did in the road test . its all theroy at the moment but it should work.
failing that its off to a speedo specialist.

heres a earlier photo i took of the intake manifold for intrested people . its finished now and the throttle cable routing is perfect . coils sit where the intake used to be. if i did one again i wouldnt go to this effort. took a long time to make the new manifold and weld up the old hole and make a new coil bracket and pressure test . does look the part though sitting straight up and down and takes up little space and is easy to work with
later mark

[ Edited on 24-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 07:53 PM



heres a picture of the water pipe i made going to the water pump it bolts to the head .the m6 bolt holes have been taped out to m8 for extra strenght.

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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 08:05 PM



Will it be ready to go for a spin next Sunday? Might drop over....:beer



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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 09:32 PM



not quite m8. ill drop you a email when shes all ready
:)
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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 09:40 PM



That's a nice idea on the manifold, like it.
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posted on September 24th, 2006 at 10:42 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ElusiveStranger
That's a nice idea on the manifold, like it.


Thanx m8 :)
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posted on September 25th, 2006 at 10:08 AM



nice work.



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posted on September 25th, 2006 at 09:32 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ricola
nice job :spin: looks like you put a lot of work into that exhaust system!

I presume you are running the stock ECU and wiring? Was it much work getting the instrument cluster working as I will be using mine too?

Rich


what i did was put the whole wiring loom in .some wires i had to lenghten but most were shortened.
the loom is in two parts the feed wires from the main fuse box in the battery tray run up the left hand side with ecu and other componaints attached to the dash . the other part from the interior fuse box runs down the right hand side from the dash area to the engine .this is the section where most wires were lengthened but not all of them .the lenghts of the original loom are just the right lenght for the manx .the interior fuse box drops down from under the dash for conveniance.

how i got the wiring loom up the tubes was to feed some rope through the tubes first .
then i picked out all the pins from the connectors writting the out down first taped it all to the rope carfully and pulled it all through then reattached the connectors to there pins. this saved on cutting off connectors and resoildering or splicing them back together creating potential problems in the future.

theres alot of wires i cut out of the loom in order to put the wiring loom in the body tubes under the guards .they only just fit.what was removed was all the auto wiring , abs , electric windows interior lights ,cruise control ( bummer ! no cruise control ,there just wasnt enough room so it had to go ) after i had finished 2 weeks later from just the wiring loom cut down the wiring loom was half its original width. and i was left with a meter square box of left over spageti . it was amazing the amount of shit that was removed. im getting alot of questions about putting the whole loom in . if i was to do a manx again id just use the main fuse box the ecu under the dash and the subaru dash and hook em all up.there will be a lot less wiring.
if however you were putting this in a bug then i would of thought it would be alot easier to fit as theres more room to put the loom . well im assuming . its not easy i can tell you that much and very time consuming
later mark
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posted on September 25th, 2006 at 09:40 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood
nice work.


thanx , its great to hear .
after three years of working on it and everybody including my wife saying im mad.
i dont think ill be taking on another project for quite some time after its finished

later mark :)
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posted on September 26th, 2006 at 12:15 AM



this is the radiator i made for it.
core was brought from pwr australia its 300mm high 570mm wide and 57mm thick with 1 1/2 inlet outlet with a 10'' fan .
its very efficent . thermo is not on for long when at operating temperature.

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posted on September 26th, 2006 at 08:37 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by bug_dv8
the speedo im planing on adjusting the tension spring in the speedo. ill try it on another one ive got first.



I tried the Jaycar digital speedo corrector. It hasn't worked so far, and support from Jaycar has been useless.

My Mazda sensor is a sine wave AC generator, and the jaycar kit multiplies it and transforms it to a square wave. I don't think my cluster / ECU likes the square wave.

It'd probably work on the suby though, cos it's a more basic speed sensor.




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posted on September 26th, 2006 at 04:36 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bug_dv8
Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood
nice work.


thanx , its great to hear .
after three years of working on it and everybody including my wife saying im mad.
i dont think ill be taking on another project for quite some time after its finished

later mark :)


you are mad. and you will do another one, only you'll be wiser the next time. ;)

They are top fun. I did my third motorkhana in my EJ25 powered buggy on the weekend and it was a hoot. It's worth the effort. Everyone loves buggies...well maybe everyone except for wives. :smilegrin:




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posted on October 8th, 2006 at 09:28 PM



side pods ,,wheres the best place to get them from in australia

and also whats the design rules for the front bull bar covering the front wheels in qld.
does the bull bar have to be at the center hieght of the front wheel .
thanks mark

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by bug_dv8 ]
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posted on October 8th, 2006 at 09:34 PM



Custom off road or sharpsbuilt have them. You just missed a set on ebay yesterday, I was going to bid myself but have too much to do already

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]




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posted on October 8th, 2006 at 09:45 PM



For the front bar my modification letter states

"In addition, it will be necessary for suitable mounted, full width bumper bar to be fitted. Front bumper bar is required to provide adequate protection for the upper half of the front wheels in the event of a forward collision."

Pics show mine when passed last year.

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]

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posted on October 8th, 2006 at 10:15 PM



wot there was a set of side pods on there ? bugger
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posted on October 8th, 2006 at 10:16 PM



They sold for $305.....



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posted on October 8th, 2006 at 10:17 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by mackaymanx
For the front bar my modification letter states

"In addition, it will be necessary for suitable mounted, full width bumper bar to be fitted. Front bumper bar is required to provide adequate protection for the upper half of the front wheels in the event of a forward collision."

Pics show mine when passed last year.

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]

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