| [ Total Views: 14708 | Total Replies: 154 | Thread Id: 85938 ] |
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 rocknrob
A.k.a.: Rob
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| posted on September 14th, 2010 at 06:39 AM |
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thanks Neil and i agree with Fastie and Craig above with the added fact that in a campervan you can literally have an extra ton of stuff onboard...and
now you are capable of keeping up with the traffic even when its doing 130!
yeah my red brakes make it stop fast Pete
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Fastie
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 posted on September 14th, 2010 at 09:37 AM |
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I'm hoping to get some fancy red brakes off Glenn too
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on September 14th, 2010 at 01:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Fastie
My experience is from talking to my engineer last week. His justification is that even the most basic of Jappa cars have vented discs now for the
reason of safety. If you are going to convert then it isn't a matter of can you stop - but can you stop over and over again without fading your
brakes - and the 70s setup wont cut it.
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I agree.
What I find ironic is the arguement used for converting to a Subaru motor is the fact that it is "new generation" and "latest technology", yet its
deemed acceptable by the same people to use 30-40 year old brake component design and setups.....go figure.
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Ditto,
i can only shake my head when I see posts with people bragging that they got their wrx powered conversions passed with stock vw brakes.
As JVL would say
     
Jak
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boof2332
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| posted on September 14th, 2010 at 02:47 PM |
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Ditto again 
For the price you can pick up a late engine why stuff around with the early, underpowered crap 1800.
As for not tellijng the rta...what do you tell your insurer.
Doesnt go down well when you hit a new Merc or Bmw or for that matter when they hit you and find out your car is illegal.... House....gone! if no
house, you get to file these cool papers with BANKRUPT plastered all over them.
If its illegal, atleast make it fast!
Matt
JVL style  
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on September 14th, 2010 at 06:43 PM |
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On both cars I have got engineered with EJ subaru motors (EJ20 NA and EJ20 Turbo), each engineer (i used a different one for the second build) wanted
front and rear discs. I dont think its written down black and white that you MUST upgrade the brakes, but to the engineer its probably thought of
being good practice in that you are going to all the trouble putting a new engine in to go faster, you should also go to a bit of trouble and make it
stop better as well. First car I put "bolt on" sherman rear discs that worked well, second time around i did a bit of DIY and adapted EA flacon
brakes, which worked even better. I got the falcon brakes done for a cost of about $400 + my time, which is nothing compared to the overall conversion
cost and time. In saying this I know several people with subarus in vw's that have standard VW brakes and they passed engineering.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 10:15 AM |
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G'day. I haven't been hiding. I've been researching.
It has now been confirmed to me independently twice that I do not need an engineers certificate for this particular swap. Confirmed by both RTA and
licensed inspectors. If it were an EJ, yes. If it were an early bay, yes. If it were a beetle, yes. But because of the HP of my factory motor, the HP
of an EA81, the age of both original vehicle and donor motor, the lack of modification to the vehicle to accommodate the motor and all around
straightforwardness of the conversion it isn't needed.
I just got back from talking to a mechanic who does blue slips, armed with the relevant documentation, and explained the details. he couldn't see a
problem with the particulars as long as the right emissions gear etc. was fitted but wanted to be sure so he went and made a phone call to the powers
that be, who confirmed that an engineers certificate is not needed.
Now I know why I have such crap luck normally. It was saving itself up for this. Damn I'm feeling like a lucky sonofabitch. Maybe I should buy a
lotto ticket.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 10:46 AM |
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Just to add, I seriously doubt it needs a brake upgrade. The stock discs / drums were more than adequate. There will be bugger all extra power, weight
and torque. Not that I speed, but it would run out of revs in 4th somewhere around 120-130km/h anyway.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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boof2332
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 11:08 AM |
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Silly me thought this was going in a bug....a bus right..
Commercial vehichle totally different... we have a ej in a watercooled bus that needed no engineering as it was less capacity than stock...
As long as the rta will let you swap and you insure it...go for it.
Matt
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 11:11 AM |
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If that's the case go do it straight away and pay your $25.30 for design check - no engineer's certificate. before they get to change their mind.
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General_Failure
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 11:37 AM |
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Yeah I realised this morning that most people's experience are with the type 1. It'd take a lot more work to do any of this to a beetle. I wouldn't
have even contemplated it with my S, If I still had it. You know what I mean.
But yeah, no matter how I run the numbers and look at it my '75 type2 which was factory 1800 meets the requirements of an owner certified mod.
the RTA seems to be fine with it so I'm not worried about that. The people that do the blue slips, not dodgy by any means, seem fine by it too. I
don't think anyone could give a shit about a slow, ancient hulk having an equally slow, slightly less ancient, extremely similar motor in it. I
don't know if being a commercial vehicle helps much in this circumstance, but it does in others where the ADRs are a bit more lax.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:45 PM |
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oh and
a weighbridge ticket $20
a exhaust db test $20
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 17th, 2010 at 08:05 AM |
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posted by k_love
under chit chat.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=86022
hey,
I've got for sale a 77 kombi just out of rego (poor body, no probs mech) with
engineers papers
96 sohc jdm ej20
2ltr kombi box with albins 3rd and 4th
gear reduction starter
plus indian front beam and 15" merc wheels ( neither of which you'll need, but can on sell)
for sale only complete vehicle $3300
located central coast 2259 NSW
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on September 17th, 2010 at 11:06 AM |
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yeah, pick it up and do that
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on September 17th, 2010 at 10:11 PM |
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Well, the seller decided to keep it.
Hm.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
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| posted on September 18th, 2010 at 09:17 AM |
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duh! 
oh well, back to your original plan.
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General_Failure
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| posted on September 18th, 2010 at 11:04 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
duh!
oh well, back to your original plan.
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What was that again?
Thanks for the heads up on the rusty kombi Ian. Unfortunately it's out of my price / distance range.
If the Fairlane which we rely on wasn't bent on keeping us poor I'd jump on that.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 15th, 2010 at 08:26 AM |
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I have a motor, adapter setup, cooling system and other bits sitting here waiting for me 
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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pete wood
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| posted on October 15th, 2010 at 09:02 PM |
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So DO IT! DO IT NOOOAWWW!
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 06:46 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
So DO IT! DO IT NOOOAWWW!
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Quoted for awesome
When I can, I will. It's out there taunting me. I've put all the bits and pieces in my VW for safekeeping, but the motor is stuck in the trailer.
The ground is waterlogged and soft right now so if I try getting it out of the trailer I'll regret it.
Besides time, the biggest hurdle I can see is swapping the motor. I've dropped the type4 far more times than i want to remember (guess why I wanted
to change engines!) but it has usually been with the transmission using this horror:
One jack cradles the transmission and the other two do the same to the moustache bar.
I can safely say it would instantly sink. Besides how on earth would I use it?
I have a garage, but it's kind of full. We moved house about a year ago but due to a lot of rather unfortunate circumstances a lot of our sh... stuff
is still in there. The other issue with using it is no power and no window. It's a cave.
So anyway, I can either drop the drivetrain as a unit, then lots of ??? to get the subie motor bolted on and in position and back up, or just pull the
motor and put the new one in.
I have access to an engine hoist, but I don't know how useful it would be. Sure they have the top access hatch, but last time I tried dropping the
motor by using a winch through there it was a nightmare. I think I ended up reinstalling the motor using long bits of wood and old car batteries.
What is a relatively easy way to drop and lift a motor for this?
Another hurdle I have, which can be safely ignored while I set everything else up is the moustache bar. I need to recheck, but I think the brackets
were welded to the bar, so I either need to find another set, liberate the ones I have, or... maybe I'm actually mistaken. Hoping for the third
option.
The only thing that is really concerning me is putting a hole in the crossmember for one of the rad hoses. It came from the factory like swiss cheese,
but I'm not sure about the legality of doing it.
In all it's going to be easy, I'm just a little stuck on a few minor issues.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 08:43 AM |
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Self reply. I was just browsing a Subie Gregory's and discovered that my second last fuel pump, which was my favourite until it went short circuit,
came from an EA powered subie! Now I know where to get another one. Those electric diaphragm pumps are awesome IMHO. Maybe it was some kind of hint.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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rocknrob
A.k.a.: Rob
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 05:33 PM |
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hey Tristan you engine trolley is much more advanced than mine...i have wooden wheels!
have you removed the valance/lower panel/metal bit yet...makes engine removal so much easier on a kombi
[img] [/img]
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 07:47 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
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Looks like you've already dropped the motor along with trans in that photo
The engines are a bit of a pig to get in. I used a crane and a mate. (now bought a m/c lift for later)
Rob's trolley looks just the ticket.
Joel made this 
or summat like Gerrelt's (his is for an Alfa) http://www.gerrelt.nl/modifications-alfaromeo-engine/ar-enginetrolley.html
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 07:58 PM |
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So when someone fits a 1800 type 4 engine into a bug or bores out their original 1600 to say 2ltr... they got to get an engineering cert?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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pete wood
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 08:56 PM |
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depends on the state chris, but in NSW +15% capacity = certificate time
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 16th, 2010 at 09:48 PM |
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bajachris88, It's complicated.
I usually drop the drivetrain as a unit because it was just easier.
So should I do this as just motor, or drop the lot, split it, bolt up the subie and chuck it back in?
The motor is wedged into the rather full garage currently. Moving a motor down a trailer ramp, across a yard of soft lumpy ground, out the gate and
into the garage using a hand truck is not something that I would recommend.
I took the lid off the air cleaner today. There are sand particles and sludge in the friggin carb. Hmm. May have got in there somehow when I cleaned
the thick layer of mud off the motor but either way it needs to be dealt with.
Does anyone know where I can get a cheap weber to subie carb adapter plate? I trust the weber on my type 4 more. Besides if I don't have it in there
it makes one of my rear window stickers incorrect.
Before I can do much I have to finish doing the rear window lip. Made some progress on the sill today. Filled the uneven bits from shallow pitting and
unevenness from welding the deep pits and holes. Sanded and primed, Still have to weld in some bits of metal on the lip to replace missing bits. Once
that's done, the back window won;t be sitting on the rock'n'roll bed and I won't feel so nervous. The job on the sill is pretty rough but
everything looks that way.
It feels so weird pulling out a motor that appears fine to put in an unknown quantity. But I know the type4 isn't quite right and feel nervous taking
it anywhere.
I'll answer the other stuff tomorrow. I'm knackered.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 17th, 2010 at 07:52 AM |
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Do you have any more pics of your trolley, Rob? I couldn't tell from the pic whether it was motor only or motor and transmission.
I literally put together that version of my trolley in minutes after a big oops removing my drivetrain. The much simpler version I was using kind of
collapsed. I had to grab things near me in the shed to prop up the drivetrain while holding up a corner one handed. That day was awful. I do miss
having concrete to work on though.
An extra set of hands would be brilliant but that's not going to happen so I have to work smart, think way ahead and plan for issues.
I have a little bit of concern about the subie motor in the back of my head so I want to get it in as quick as possible to confirm/deny.
By the way. It would seem as though I need t2b 1600 moustache bar brackets to put this beast in properly. Anyone have a spare set?
edit: Bonus shot.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 19th, 2010 at 08:24 AM |
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I'm borrowing an engine hoist to put it in. I think the hoist weighs more than the motor!
I'll probably just make a dodgy cradle out of ratcheting tiedowns because those straps are nice and strong, and won't damage the motor. I might have
to double step it because I don't think there's enough vertical room in the back of the cab for the hoist arm.
I'm sure I'd be better off doing a lot of the engine work while it is out, but getting it in is the hardest part and I want to get it out of the
way. Problem is I have no way of attaching the moustache bar yet. i guess I could chuck the towbar across the top hatch and put a couple of tiedowns
from that to the bar to keep the weight off the transmission. It's not like it'll be driven like that. I just don't want to stress the bellhousing
tabs and the shift housing. Because it has a 3 rib 002 I don't imagine it to be great at holding the weight of the subie motor.
I got an oil filter for it today. $16. Cheaper than driving elsewhere to buy one.
What I think I need to do to the motor before it's sort of ready:
* Replace a missing alternator bracket bolt.
* Replace fan belt.
* Valve clearences
* Clean out carb (unless someone has a weber adapter plate kicking around)
* Change filter / put some oil in it.
* Sand the radiator hose fittings a little so the hoses stand some chance of sealing.
* new plugs
* Timing and point gap. Dwell will be left to divine intervention because my dwell meter is broken.
* Gauges and sender: Water temp, oil pressure. Gauges will come from the truck wrecker.
* Moustache bar to frame brackets and rubbers.
* Cooling system (big can o' worms).
* Thermo fan and gauge wiring. Going to use some multi core wire. Got some nice stuff from Middy's in the past that was maybe 7 core, decent gauge
wire, made for industrial application. Need some more of that.
* Put thermo fan control stuff on dash. Knob and mode switch.
* Wire the motor up. Maybe 5 minutes work because I rewired the engine bay a while ago and it should pretty much plug straight in without any wire
re-routing or extensions ... except the oil idiot light sender.
* Attach accelerator cable.
For first quick test. It'll get this:
*Fuel hose connected.
*Fan belt off.
*Carb throats cleaned out.
*Filter and oil.
*Coil and carb wires connected.
*Idiot light if I could be bothered.
when I see it crank and fire I'll sleep a lot better.
I'm removing the fan belt for a few reasons. It needs replacing. The alternator bracket needs re-attaching. Alternators don't like being spun with
nothing attached. The water pump would be spinning dry. It's not like I'd be revving the tits off it for half an hour. It just has to endure a
compression test then prove it can spin under its own power.
Once again, I'd really like to put my Weber on it. The thing on there looks like a toy.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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rocknrob
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| posted on October 19th, 2010 at 06:11 PM |
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Tristan this is my trolley...very simple...the two struts at the back bolt to the exhaust manifold bolts. I welded a little plate on the front to hold
a small hydraulic jack to support the front of the gearbox and lift it high enough to bolt up. I use a trolley jack under the rear so it all wheels in
and lifts up very easily
[img] [/img]
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on October 19th, 2010 at 06:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
Late bay bus brakes passed the brake test easily with EJ22 conversion. Done it.
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That is for standard weight late Bay.
late VW Type 2 was designed for braking capacity to allow 1000kg payload on top of Transporter tare weight. That is why the brakes are reasonably
sufficient, and suit engine and power upgrades.
However there are even bigger and better brake upgrades available.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on October 19th, 2010 at 07:37 PM |
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All good to know. I decided against dropping the motor and trans as a unit. It's the way I usually do it but never separate them. It would be too
hard for me to d/c the type 4 motor, lug it off the trolley, get the subaru motor on. Anyhow I have a borrowed hoist in the trailer.
It's been about six years since I've pulled a type 4 using support from above. I know I did it with a D shackle through that blank hole up the top
near the flywheel and ...???
I'll probably rig something like a tiedown strap based cradle for the subie, or go really fancy and use chain with cardboard between it and the
barrel sections. Top notch operation here. Once it is in I still face the lack of mo' bar bracket issue. But because this is the only part where i
need heavy equipment I figure I'l get it done now while the getting is good.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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