| [ Total Views: 268189 | Total Replies: 705 | Thread Id: 77027 ] |
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 Mick058
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 08:17 AM |
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vvvrrrroooommmm -ppppchheeeeeee
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Joel
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 04:31 PM |
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hehe , yea your someone that now knows what im talking about 
Ians bug was a blast, can drive like a total stocker if you want it to then slam the noise pedal and it will quite literally throw you back in your
seat
lets see how quickly i can burn out my stockpile of gearboxes 
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Mick058
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 04:36 PM |
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seems we have the same box issue now too 
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Joel
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 04:40 PM |
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maybe i need a swing axle bug
joshs 74 EJ20T bug has about 220hp at the wheels with a stock untouched gearbox that was almost out of oil and he doesnt exactly go easy on it
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Mick058
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 04:47 PM |
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this is true - see how lucky we get 
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Joel
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 04:54 PM |
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i think we'll all be keeping Dave B gainfully employed for quite a while
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DaveCarter
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 05:26 PM |
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haha well if you ever need to get rid of your EJ22.................... I'm sure nag power will bring dad over to my side sooner or later LOL
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Joel
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 05:30 PM |
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funnily enough i said the exact same thing to him on sunday
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DaveCarter
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 06:07 PM |
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hellbugged
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 06:09 PM |
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oh you know you only came to Sawtell to suck in all the bad influences on offer Joel.....thinking about turbo now hey 
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trickysimon
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| posted on August 18th, 2009 at 06:10 PM |
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At least this temptation is better than the last one you had
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Joel
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 06:24 PM |
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Yay my first 'lil error code
anyone know what it means?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4f0biWKsnk
havent had a chance to do any research yet
but i'll bet a left testical its probably knock sensor as mine has some cracks through it
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trickysimon
A.k.a.: Simon Azzopardi
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 06:30 PM |
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Means you're not running any boost
Seriously though congratz on getting it going, sounds fullsick hectic.
Whats the metallic sound when it first starts up?
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Joel
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 06:32 PM |
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ah yeah thats a bit of an ongoing contentious issue
its my flywheel and starter motor having intimacy problems
it sounds alot better than my crappy mobile phone makes out
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Joel
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 06:47 PM |
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damn i really valued that left nut
FAULTS CODES:
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
whats funny was when i first turned the ignition on to prime the pumps it was giving the everythings fine and dandy flash
was only after i kicked it in the guts that it changed
mights have to check the plug hasnt come adrift.
it was a pain to get at, i really need to dump that stupid chrome louvered firewall
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STIDUB
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 07:44 PM |
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ditch the shiny bits, it makes the zorst look backyard style :lol
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
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Joel
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 07:49 PM |
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you be laughter cracking at my zorst?
rightly so, its terrible at the moment, still needs a dump pipe fitted and a stealth black paintjob
i was worried it was gonna be too loud so the staino cannon wasnt gonna be permanant but at idle its no different to a stock liberty
even revving its just like a mellow WRX
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 08:53 PM |
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My light comes on all the time, I just drive the sucker. cause certain things don't stop the car its just for that emission stuff
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Joel
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| posted on September 6th, 2009 at 09:59 PM |
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cheers Ian, ill have a better look around it see if its just the plug or wiring not playing ball
anyway guess i better back track abit
i havent actually worked on it for quite a while
still been flat out working and we had a death in the family recently so i spent a bit of time on it this weekend just to help keep my mind off
things
obviuosly by the fact its now running ive got all my electrical in and hooked up
i think its a page back now, but i got my ECU mounted under the backseat opposite the battery along with various relays, fuses and a circuit
breaker
heres how it looked before the subaru loom entered the equation
subi fuel pump and ignition relays ontop of the ECU still need mounting somewhere
I felt like a gynecologist feeding the subi loom thro the heating ducting
painfull but evetually got it through there
i was gonna need 2 other looms as well
one from the ECU to the front of the car for the fuel pump and fans and another from the ECU to the dash for things like water temp gauge, check
engine light, tacho etc
i started by gutting the interior abit
poor bug looks like a theft recovery
it was also a good opertunity to clean up some of my birds nest wiring additions
check engine light and water temp gauge installed
the front loom only needed 2 wires but now was the easiest time to run a few extras
i pulled it all from the left over liberty looms
nice big 8 guage wire for the pump in the correct black with red trace and yellow for the fan
a few others there as spares
there was an empty hole in the kick panel area so i chucked a grommet in that and fed the loom through into the boot
same deal with the loom to the dash, only needed 3 light wires but i ran a heap of spares including a couple of big 8 guage wires
all tidied up and properly hidden along the sills this time
the other thing i had to do was lengthen the wires to the TPS due to the relocated throttle body
while i was at it i removed the stock liberty temp gauge sender and fitted the new one for my speco gauge
there was also a couple of unused vac ports on the manifold
in the liberty the small one is for the ventilation flaps as there all vacuum opertated and the big one is for the brake booster
theyre both 1/8th NPT so i removed them and chucked in some blanks i had laying around
but you could just do the old bit of hose with a bolt in the end trick if you wer'nt fussed about looks
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 7th, 2009 at 08:29 AM |
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Hi Joel
Looking and sounding good, so are going to drive it to Warwick?
Steve
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Joel
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| posted on September 7th, 2009 at 07:33 PM |
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Hi Steve,
yep fingers crossed, warwick is the deadline ive given myself to have it running by
i had a look today the cam sensor is all plugged in ok and wiring looks fine
it wasnt throwing any codes in the liberty before i removed it.
might have to do a homer simpson and put some tape over the the check engine light
gotta love these engines,
last time it was running was march 21st when i drove the liberty into the shed and dropped the engine out
so prety much 6 months ago, and it started up first go and sat there idling smooth as the day it left the factory, not even a wif of smoke or the
usual clacky subaru lifters
i was expecting it to considering i havent touched a thing on it except checking that it still had oil
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Klaus
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| posted on September 7th, 2009 at 08:16 PM |
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pull the sensor out and see if there's any fine shavings stuck to it , my crank sensor has this happen occ and throws an error code.
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Joel
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| posted on September 7th, 2009 at 08:40 PM |
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cheers Klaus
thats a good possiblity with all the welding and grinding ive been doing
looks like a pain to get in and out
anyone know if its the same as the crank pos sensor?
they look the same
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gerrelt
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| posted on September 8th, 2009 at 06:16 AM |
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| Quote: |
gotta love these engines,
last time it was running was march 21st when i drove the liberty into the shed and dropped the engine out
so prety much 6 months ago, and it started up first go and sat there idling smooth as the day it left the factory, not even a wif of smoke or the
usual clacky subaru lifters
i was expecting it to considering i havent touched a thing on it except checking that it still had oil
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That's great!
I also found it a revelation that I could start the car, without sitting in it. Just reach in through the window and turn the key. No need to step on
the gaspedal during starting anymore!! The CPU does it all for you.
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Joel
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| posted on September 8th, 2009 at 08:08 PM |
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Klaus, your a legend, i owe you a beer
i pulled the sensor out and it didnt have anything on it except a bit of greasy dirt but cleaned up and reinstalled theres no errors codes now just
that steady world peace is restored flash
i mentioned early in this thread i was still deciding on what to do about coolant lines
being an ex fridgy i can get copper at cost price but only in 6m lenghts which worked out to roughly $24/meter
copper is one of the best conductors out there but its also ugly
anyway i decided a better option which has been used by many is just plain jane exhaust tube
at $5per foot its alot cheaper but talking to mum and dads neighbour who works at a plumbing shop led me there
for $45 i came home with 3m of food grade stainless steel 1.5" nice shiny tube
i honestly couldnt beleive it was cheaper than cruddy exhaust tube and looks 100x better
cooling properties will be better as well
anyway i took the lengths to a mate with a bender and we bent them up to sit in the sill channels on either side
this was how my black beetle was setup as well
it had hose clamps tucked under those funny body bolt washers to hold the pipes up
worked well for 13 years so im gonna do the same thing with this one
whilst still on the topic of cooling systems i made up some brackets to mount the fan to my radiator
the original mazda fan the radiator came with was one of those old 4 huge straight blade things that are noisey as buggery and could probaby be
overpowered by a decent fart
this new one is one of those fancy "S" blade fans which are allegedly quiter and move a shitload more air
well everycar made after 92 that ive owned has had them so if there good enough for the jap manufactures i guess they must work
i actually bought it a couple of years ago
i took out a low branch with the rooftop A/C condensor fan on the tractor on and smashed a blade off it
i thought id try these new ones as tractor A/C systems have a huge job in summer time but ofcorse the mounts and plugs were all different and i
couldnt return it
funny though hanging onto the old rooted one all this time payed off
i cracked it open for the magnets inside
this is my $9 speed sensor
im going to attach the magnets to the CV joint and mount the reed switch off the bump stop bracket
thats all the stock liberty speed sensor was
a reed switch and a couple of magnets attached to a disc in the back off the speedo
it had 5 magnets but its not of concern, it only uses the pulses to work out if the cars moving or stationary, or rolling to a stop
people have used these Gaurd reed switches before they seem to be up to task
also working off the rear axle instead of the front is better for dyno situations
its apparently not an issue with EJ22s but some of the later ones when on the dyno without the speed sensor turning go into limp mode and cut the revs
to 4k or something
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on September 9th, 2009 at 06:04 AM |
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Nice going Joel, glad you got the sensor sorted. It may have been a bit of swarf or just the grease stopping it picking up the proper signal
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Joel
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| posted on September 11th, 2009 at 07:40 PM |
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cheers Balders,
im not exactly sure what caused it, there was only abit of grease on it but ill see how things go, might be an intermittent fault
to be completely honest i was expecting a line up of error codes so its a bit of surprise to have none now as my wiring is a total birdsnest during
these trial periods
anyway looks like im in for a weekend of welding again
got 7 meters worth of stainless tube all bent up ready to be welded toghether
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 17th, 2009 at 11:23 PM |
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Hi Joel
I saw this 1303 on the Kamei site, looks like it has a cut for the factory air con vents.
Steve
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pete wood
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| posted on September 18th, 2009 at 09:36 AM |
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mmm, hubcaps and crossplys.................... 
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Joel
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| posted on September 19th, 2009 at 10:11 PM |
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cheers for the pic steve,
i still havent decided what to do about it yet.
as you know yourself they just handle too differently without a kamei on
im pretty impressed with how gerrelts looks with the slots cut in it but i'm also gonna talk to a mate thats a fibreglasser and see if he can mould
in a discrete scoop that is effective but doesnt look all ricey/transformer autobot style
sorry to the people that have been following this, ive just been to busy/tired/lazy to keep it updated
i have to sort through about 400 pics to finish off the rest
so is this thing gonna be ready for warwick??
im not pinning any hopes on it but i may be lucky
pretty much everything to finish it off is sitting here waiting
custom veedub have finished off my sump and its on its way and all my rad lines just need welding toghether
one area i havent really touched on in this thread yet is my fuel system
the subi requires 2x 8mm fuel lines, one supply and one return
i was halfway there already as i ran a new 8mm supply line years ago for my old blow through turbo setup and used the stock vw line as the return
it was no use in this case though as its only 6mm.
all i did with the original new line i put it was ran a rubber EFI hose through the tunnel inside a protective tube, so all ive done is run another of
those
they enter the tunnel through grommets one on the master cylinder side and the other on the opposite side of the frame head
at the rear they exit the tunnel on the right hand side just near the gearbox nose cone.
if i did it over again id just run metal lines under the car with a protective gaurd over them.
alot less work, easier to service and work just as well
the stock 6mm fuel line will be used as the line from the charcoal canister to the tank as its also 6mm in the subaru
when i stripped the liberty i kept the mounting bracket and clamp for the filter from it and bought a new filter (part# Z348)
there not cheap but last 30,000kms
ive mounted it on the side firewall
you can see the couple of holes ive put in for the fuel lines and electrical to enter the engine bay through
ive left the tank as is for the time being
the stock 6mm outlet is feeding the lift pump adequately but i plan on taking the tank out and putting on one of my old SBug ones
they have a bung in the very bottom which is used to access the filter sock thats fitted over the outlet
they stopped installing these in Lbugs and started using inline fuel filters instead so mine doesnt have it
what im going to do is fit the Sbug tank and ive got a big 8mm barbed fitting fitted inplace of the bung just for abit better flow
ive reused the facet pump from my supercharger as a lift pump as its only done 3000kms so hopefully it will be up to the task
ive made up a bracket and im mounting it on some waffle pad to keep the noise down
we used to use this stuff to sit A/C outdoor units on
finally a use for one of those 3 million coil brackets i seem to have lying around
fit my Bosch EFI pump like a glove
now ill do a Lee so that people can understand the chaos that is my pump setup at the moment
now to get the return back into the main tank to save having weld the actual tank which is a real nightmare and dangerous job, i silver soldered
another 8mm barb into the filler neck instead
only problem with doing it this way is you have to do it in situ as once the barbs in the neck you cant get it back through the hole in the body
unless you make it screw in some how by fitting a threaded boss instead.....or crack out the tin snips like i did 
i dropped the engine back out today to do a couple of things
first was get rid of that louvered firewall and tarboard insulation
its amazing how much more room there is once they're gone
ive put in sound deadner on the inside of the car plus my sub enclosure acts as a big sound barrier between the engine and the cabin as well so it
wont be missed
now cos ive relocated the thtrottle body the 2 coolant lines that run to it no longer reach
these work alot like pre heater pipes on a beetle, warming up the intake
doing a bit of reading on subaru forums as i thought in a warmer climate like here its not needed and some people have actually reported power gains
by removing it
so all ive done is removed the 2 pieces of hose. once comes off the idle control valve and the other dumps into the heater/thermostat return hardline
and joined them with a single piece
good quality EFI hose works well
also the purge valve hose to the throttlebody wont reach either
so i ran a new longer one plus ive also disconnected the original canister hard line from the purge valve and run a new rubber vac line which will go
straight to the canister instead of through the solid line jungle which im going to remove once i get time to pull the intake manifold off
to give me abit more room for the coolant hoses while the engine was out i also trimmed abit off the the coolant manifold outlet
and finally a really important but often overlooked area is the heater loop
its VITAL that an unobstructed loop is in place with the 2 heaterlines as the thermostat
the subaru engines use a completely different thermostat setup than most mainstreamers as the thermostat is on the cold side of the engine
most cars have it on the hot side so once the water coming out of the block is hot the 'stat starts to open and circulates it through the radiator
with subis its after the rad on the cold side and the engine instead constantly circulates the water through the heater core and back to the
thermostat
so as the engine heats ups it just "sips" the cold water as it needs from the radiator relying on the hot water coming back from the heater to
control the thermostat so it must be connected and flowing freely otherwise you end up with overheating
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