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Author: Subject:  2715cc Pauter Build-up(New stuff most days!)
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posted on April 24th, 2006 at 09:53 PM



There are about 15 oil gallery plugs in this block.
I SMEAR LOCTITE THREAD SEALER INTO EACH ONE AND THEN NIP THEM IN.
Damn caps lock !

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That's mad Alan.
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posted on April 24th, 2006 at 10:00 PM
Installing the con-rods.


All the bearings are pre lubricated with an assembly lube bfore hand .
Lately I have been using a Morey's product because it is so tacky, but any thick oil or paste designed for assembly
is fine...nulon makes some good ones, and there are some good moly based ones too.
On most threads I have been using Never-seize, but on critical fasteners, namely the rod bolts I use this ARP
product on the threads, and under the head of the bolt.

75 ft-lbs gives .006" stretch on thse fasteners with this lube.

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That's mad Alan.
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posted on April 24th, 2006 at 10:05 PM



And then finally the rod bolts are tensioned in place.
This is done through the top of the block before the lid is installed.
This just about covers all the assembly process, from when I first got my camera last year.
If I have left anything out or if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

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That's mad Alan.
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posted on April 24th, 2006 at 10:57 PM



Damn thats an amazing looking bit of kit Dave..... It just looks so tough.... You can see why its the serious racers choice..... What Rod bolts are you using? The 8740's or the 2000's?..... The reason I am asking is because Im looking at the bolts on my H Beams and thinking for my app I might upgrade.... Its gonna be a boosted 2276 (250-300hp est, min street use, mostly weekend rocket), but Im not sure if the extra expense is warranted.... Its prolly good security, but I'd like to hear what you think.....



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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 08:31 AM



Hi Simon,
depends on the bolt diameter. If they are 3/8" diameter thread, the 8740's will be fine. For the 5/16" size I would use ARP 2000 or better.
Mine are a different brand that comes with the Pauter rods, but based on the tension required to achieve .006" stretch the are similar to the 2000 material.
These bolts are also a larger diameter again at 7/16".
In my Mule engine I have chosen the L-19 material for one step better than 2000.
Carrilo rods come with an SPS brand fastener known as CARR that is a little better again than the L-19...very nice, but 600 dollars for a set!




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posted on April 25th, 2006 at 12:24 PM



Thanks for sharing, it's amazing how much work goes into a built like this.
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posted on April 26th, 2006 at 10:14 PM



amazing, i dream of being able to do things like that!

best porting job on the heads i have ever seen in any car




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posted on May 1st, 2006 at 11:03 AM



some quality machining there
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posted on May 4th, 2006 at 08:48 PM
New 180mm three-puc clutch disc.


While the engine is out, I ordered a new clutch disc.
This one has thicker pads on the FW side to clear the rivets in relation to the FW bolts.
The old disc had done 24 passes plus 10 dyno runs and some time with its little mate
in a two disc deal that was behind my supercharged engine.
I am expecting some extra torque with this engine so I thought it would be better being fresh.
The diafragm has 2700lbs clamp.

[ Edited on 4-5-2006 by dangerous ]

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posted on May 5th, 2006 at 12:58 AM



Aaaaaaahhhhh... Isn't it cute!... Cheers Dave for all you help mate.... Your a champ!



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posted on May 6th, 2006 at 01:24 PM



I like the colour, does painting it red make you go faster?:smilegrin:

But seriously, that is really cool.

does the twin plate setup take up a lot of room?




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posted on May 6th, 2006 at 05:33 PM



Yes red has always been fast!
The dual disc set-up was a real tight squeeze in the bellhousing.
In the end I had a floater that was about 6mm thick and pucks on the discs
that were only just above the rivets from new.
Also had to spotface the bolt seats down to clear in the bellhousing and near
the clutch fork.




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posted on May 6th, 2006 at 06:08 PM



I've got one of those on the end of my whipper snipper for cutting through tough grass....:duh
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posted on May 12th, 2006 at 06:04 PM



Well, last Sunday I got it all bolted in and wired up.
As per last time, I couldn't for the life of me, get the damn thing to idle.
All the accessories of the fuel system were the same, except for a cautious
richening of the mixtures, and my spare electronic WBX dizzy.
If I wasn't such a poindexter I would have used a bit of logic and just
swapped the dizzy to the one I had been using.
But instead, I stressed and tinkered, trying to theorize on some obscure tuning
requirement that all this new found power was demanding. (Yeah, right!?)
So after finally getting home from work before dark, I bunged in my usual dizzy, and, WALLA!!
All sweet!
So what was the problem?
The engine wanted more advance at idle speed.
The dizzy that was causing all the trouble was not faulty, only the advance curve
was far to slow to suit, and if the revs dropped down so would the ignition advance.
To achieve a total timing of 28 degrees, the stock curve had late timing at idle (ATDC).
And I guess that these big cams, and methanol fuel need all the help they can get.
So the propper curve has 20 degrees at 2000 and is all in by 3000.
Just out of interest, that good dizzy is a stock early WBX dizzy, with the vacuum locked and removed, and only one advance spring.
While I am sure that there are much better systems out there, that might unleash more power, this thing was trouble free, and fired my supercharged engine's 42psi boost, and 10:1 comp no worries.
This is nothing scientific, just what performs best with this combo.(talking about the advance curve in the N/A combo)

[ Edited on 12-5-2006 by dangerous ]




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posted on May 12th, 2006 at 06:28 PM



Here is that dizzy,
and the completed engine.

[ Edited on 12-5-2006 by dangerous ]

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posted on May 12th, 2006 at 06:36 PM
Billet Pointer


Here is the timing pointer I made.
Can you say, "heavy duty"?

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posted on May 12th, 2006 at 07:21 PM



Looks great Dave....lucky you have it bolted in otherwise it may have got mixed up with my bits when I come to pick them up.
When are you going to run it? i'll come out for a look and bring my trusty vid.

Love the timing pointer...if you ever need to run a chute, nice HD attachment point.....:P
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posted on May 12th, 2006 at 11:50 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Stanley
Love the timing pointer...if you ever need to run a chute, nice HD attachment point.....:P


LOL!




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posted on May 13th, 2006 at 12:43 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Here is the timing pointer I made.
Can you say, "heavy duty"?



Hate to get my neck tie stuck in that at 7 and a half
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posted on May 21st, 2006 at 04:51 PM



Happy Birthday to me...
I heard the Honda was not able to back up the record in "All Motor",
so the record is still mine until the Jamboree up here in September.




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posted on May 21st, 2006 at 06:11 PM



Well Dave

Looks like you'll have to get your chassis car on track and step up the tune to better that Honda..!!!!

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posted on May 21st, 2006 at 07:29 PM



Can't run a tube chassis in All Motor, unless it is a Honda.
Don't worry, I've got him covered though.




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posted on May 21st, 2006 at 07:40 PM



He, he, heeeee!!!!:smilegrin:



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posted on May 21st, 2006 at 08:07 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Can't run a tube chassis in All Motor, unless it is a Honda.
Don't worry, I've got him covered though.


That's what we like to hear..!!!!! :thumb




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posted on June 3rd, 2006 at 12:08 PM



Dave, you and Mike are awsome,took me alot of years to learn a small part of what you have given all of us in these posts,thanks alot
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posted on June 3rd, 2006 at 02:41 PM



http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=48393 
This is a link to the pushrods project.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=49484 
This one covers some of the engine instalation.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=47920 
Fat pushrod tubes project.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=47696 
Billet pulley deal.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=47290 
Photos of port work.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=47677#pid444998 
Spiro lock story.




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posted on June 11th, 2006 at 06:38 PM



hey dave you got a spare set of square cut gears for that pauter motor ,did you say the centres are 6 mm apart than std vw . if so how much. thanks john
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posted on June 11th, 2006 at 07:09 PM



Hi john,
no spares that I can part with.
The 6mm spacing is the same as a type 4 engine, but with a type 1, bolt pitch circle.
Pauter stocks the gears for these and type 4s, and are a phone call away.




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posted on June 12th, 2006 at 05:45 PM



hi dave thanks for your help i will phone pauter later .i might need to call on your help soon as i am building a new motor from scratch but with a 5 main crank.
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posted on June 12th, 2006 at 06:55 PM



Oohh! Would like to see that!
Not Subaru though!?




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