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 sander288
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| posted on November 22nd, 2012 at 07:58 PM |
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Well they were new seals; But they are the wrong ones. I had only discovered this during 2009 when I had a bad leak. The only other seals that worked
were the stepped seal that goes from 8mm to 10mm. It is really strange but they were the only ones that didn't leak with the good 2nd cooler I
bought.
Heres the what the leak left after running it for a while
Heres the box; all clean. This silver disc was left on the prop shaft though... I think its off the pressure plate does it re-attach to it or do I
leave it there?
Had to take the extractor off the get the motor out; couldn't move it forward enough to clear the bottom studs
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sander288
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| posted on November 22nd, 2012 at 08:09 PM |
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So I thought it looked like the seals; as the cooler seems completely dry; and the cooler was pressure tested before selling so I know it was ok.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 22nd, 2012 at 10:06 PM |
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that disc should be on your pressure plate ! why dont you upgrade to a doghouse cooler ????
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sander288
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 09:28 AM |
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doghouse; we don't need no stinking doghouse!
Yeah I could change over; but I don't see the need it still is essentially a stock engine with a hot cam and comp and it's no more than a 356 or 912
ever put out with the same cooler setup. The only thing I would change is swapping the cooler for an Aluminium one.... way down the path.
I'll whack new seals in there and see how it goes
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 11:05 AM |
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Doghouse it.... Ichanged my daily 1300 over to it and I'm sure no3 cylinder loves me for it  if you have ever put your hand at the end of a doghouse cooler "exhaust" there's a lot of heat being shot out there and
not over your cylinders
That ring on the input shaft is part of the thrust bearing Or pressure plate, either wau way it shouldn't be floating on it's own
Show us pic of your pressure plate is it diaphram or finger type?
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sander288
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 07:46 PM |
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Hey Daimo,
It's a diaphragm type like a Kennedy stage 1 but is EMPI....; speaking to Stan today he said that he's not seen one break off before so I've got to
send him pics... but I questioned the EMPI plate when the motor was being built and he said he checked out the EMPI ones before using them and thought
they were of as good of quality as the Kennedy ones; the only caveat on that is that I suspect he doesn't often have requests for his motors in cars
that are still running most of the 6v equipment so this plate might not of been used by him in my application with the older throwout bearing design
and centering ring used
I had a look at it this evening and the holder for the centering ring is still in place where it should be and the ring has broken free (cleanly may I
add!!) So I need a new centering ring installed or a new pressure plate....
The cooler I checked out as well and it does have 10mm openings; so it turns out its a cooler from a 1500 beetle and a transition cooler between the
8mm 12-1300 ones and the doghouse coolers.... so some stepped/adaptor seals are required.
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sander288
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 08:03 PM |
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Heres the ring,
Heres the pressure plate; you can see on the plate where the ring should be attached; the ring lines up perfectly with that bright part on the
plate/centering ring holder
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 08:23 PM |
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Weird looking Theodore bearing too.... Although I'm still only on my phone
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sander288
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 08:52 PM |
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probs why the auto-correct is calling it a theodore bearing!! 
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 08:57 PM |
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Yeah and I've tried fixing it twice
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 23rd, 2012 at 11:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by sander288
Hey Daimo,
It's a diaphragm type like a Kennedy stage 1 but is EMPI....; speaking to Stan today he said that he's not seen one break off before so I've got to
send him pics... but I questioned the EMPI plate when the motor was being built and he said he checked out the EMPI ones before using them and thought
they were of as good of quality as the Kennedy ones; the only caveat on that is that I suspect he doesn't often have requests for his motors in cars
that are still running most of the 6v equipment so this plate might not of been used by him in my application with the older throwout bearing design
and centering ring used
I had a look at it this evening and the holder for the centering ring is still in place where it should be and the ring has broken free (cleanly may I
add!!) So I need a new centering ring installed or a new pressure plate....
The cooler I checked out as well and it does have 10mm openings; so it turns out its a cooler from a 1500 beetle and a transition cooler between the
8mm 12-1300 ones and the doghouse coolers.... so some stepped/adaptor seals are required.
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95% of beetles with swingaxles have the same setup.......so there is nothing unusual with yours. As for Empi being the same quality as Kennedy, well I
doubt that.
Wrong seals used by stan.....well thats a PITA for you.
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 24th, 2012 at 08:20 AM |
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yeah im just used to these ones....
The thrust area on your THROW OUT bearing looks to have a larger I.D than mine and compared to the ring you say was part of the pressure
plate.....could this have caused the issue
You sure that ring wasnt part of the thrust bearing and it was being run as early throw out with no ring on the pressure plate?
just doesnt look right to me....again, could be the pictures
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sander288
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| posted on November 24th, 2012 at 11:21 AM |
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Daimo, went and checked the ring against the throwout bearing and it definatley doesn't fit inside of the bearing; it mates perfectly with it against
the surface.
I'm sure it was part of the pressure plate; I just don't have any pics of the engine before I put it in...
http://www.empius.com/vwcatalog/2011/141.html
You can see the pressure plate at the top of this page; the ring is attached!
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 24th, 2012 at 12:03 PM |
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The ring is off the pressure plate 
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sander288
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| posted on November 29th, 2012 at 09:48 AM |
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Getting somewhere with all this;
Getting new seals sometime this week to fix up the leak; the ones that were in there are correct for the car I've just got the wrong oil cooler;
typical that my only contribution to the motor (the cooler) has been the issue!! 
Stan's helping me out with the clutch and is sending me another centring ring for the pressure plate; easy done. Been searching the net for similar
occurrences and the same thing has happened to Kennedy clutches, looking at the clutch cable yesterday the bowden tube has NO sag so I suspect it's
been a contributing factor; non the less Stan was on the money about the EMPI part being ok; if you look at the EMPI catalog in the link in one of my
other posts the Kennedy and EMPI parts are identical with a different marking; even been to a parts shop to look and cannot see the difference!!!
Overall I'm stoked with the motor; also happy that Stan has been incredibly helpful in this instance! Just need to get the motor back in fire it up
and it'll be sweet
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sander288
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 09:45 AM |
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Got the motor buttoned up etc... but as I said the clutch was out of adjustment and had no adjustment left on the threads. So I went to replace the
bowden tube and get the correct sag; easier said than done in my case.
So I pulled the old clutch cable out and re-greased a new one and started feeding it in when the guide tube inside the tunnel comes loose, I'm like
no biggy I'll thread it though and fix that up after except the guide tube had actually broken halfway down the tunnel!
Upshot is I can't get the cable down and am left without an operating clutch!!
Any suggestions on getting the guide tube fixed/replaced? Can't drive it anywhere so a mobile repairer or a tow is required.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 01:18 PM |
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just get it rewelded where the factory weld has broken (near the handbrake cable)............its a common problem
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 02:10 PM |
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Search "Matt Ryan" for a post on where to make accurate access holes to fix the tube at the front
In my members ride thread there a few shots on how to go about making a bracket for the middle part
And lastly under the rear seat
Search Queensland vee dub club site for " inside a type 1 tunnel" to get a look at how it's all put in there from the factory
I will look for all those links after I get home from work tonight
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sander288
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 02:33 PM |
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http://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/insideabug-insideabug_63type1
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=97814#pid912404
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=78049
Cheers Daimo
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 02:43 PM |
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Too easy bud
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benny_acko
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 02:59 PM |
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I think I may have a similar situation - clutch pedal is depressed a fair way before a click sound and then some resistance..Thanks for the links and
advice - just another addition to the list of things needing to get fixed.
1967 VW Beetle Deluxe
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sander288
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 03:08 PM |
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found these in the 1200 Bentley manual
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on January 31st, 2013 at 01:00 PM |
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Any more updates ?
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sander288
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| posted on January 31st, 2013 at 01:38 PM |
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Nope motor still out and clutch still un-repaired, my garage currently is a lagoon due to all the rain once it's dried out I should be able to get
into it
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sander288
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 09:15 AM |
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The garage has dried out enough so that I can have a poke around at the clutch tube issue; and it is a little worse than expected.
I was expecting to open up the tunnel and see that the tube had come loose in the middle or rear or front; BUT; the guide tube is actually in 2 pieces
and had been joined at some stage with a hose clamp.
The middle and rear are attached to the car and aren't causing any issues but the front length of pipe is a bit worry some
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hellbugged
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 06:45 PM |
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So what's the " fix it" plan then?
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 07:03 PM |
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IRS pan and a decent motor ? !
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 07:15 AM |
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Hi
The metal tube that fits in a shock absorber is a good weld on fix for a broken clutch tube or you could go hydraulic.
Steve
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 07:43 AM |
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ooooooo hydraulic sounds interesting... but I think what I'll do is maybe remove the pipe that is still in there and get a new one welded in
OR, find where these pipes join and get the two sections braised or welded together. Only issue with this one is that It's kind of guess work as to
where the join is
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 07:56 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
IRS pan and a decent motor ? !
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Craig I do have an IRS pan
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