[ Total Views: 706 | Total Replies: 21 | Thread Id: 38419 ] |
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jaksc
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 09:51 PM |
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engine case
Have cleaned down engine case and got rid of all the grease and oil. any suggestions how to detail it further other than painting it so it looks
smart.It is a dull grey colour at he moment and want it to be more presentable.
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sax
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 09:54 PM |
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Hi temp paint is the only sensible thing to use.
Engine paint. But dont use black.
" You're not a team player "
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tassupervee
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 09:57 PM |
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A nifty way to really clean up grotty aluminium is Mr Muscle oven cleaner.
This stuff seems to rip all the baked in grime and is far less streaky in its finish than using mag wheel cleaner.
The cases look like they have just bee sand blasted.
We used to get spectacular results on grubby go-kart engines with it. Vegetable oil would bake into the cases leaving it crappy brown, never to be
remove until this stuff was used.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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jaksc
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 10:03 PM |
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Was concerned about blasting as I thought that the media would get in the oil galleries. have other people blasted cases before? Would Mr muscle work
on outside of fuel pump as well?
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jaksc
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 10:11 PM |
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Probably a custom look but not too wild
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Che Castro
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posted on April 30th, 2005 at 09:47 AM |
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Oven cleaner is pretty caustic and can react with aluminium. What type of case are you talking about? Type 1 Magnesium or Type 4 alloy?
Jon
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jaksc
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posted on April 30th, 2005 at 03:19 PM |
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It is type 1 magnesium I think!
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tassupervee
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posted on May 1st, 2005 at 11:24 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Che Castro
Oven cleaner is pretty caustic and can react with aluminium.
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Absolutely, it is, that why is cleans up alloy so well. I imagine it removes a couple of microns!!
However, it is not drastic enough to do anything else apart from leaving the alloy looking just about the same as it left the foundry in the first
place.
However it will rip the finish off anything polished and leave an "anodised" look so beware on polished ally parts.
The cleaner will work on any surface as far as cleaning off the scunge but the result is the best on alloy.
Try it on a section of the case you cannot see or any other cruddy bit of junk you may have. You may have to experiment with the time you leave it on
for and how heavy you apply it.
Make sure you thoroughly degrease and scrub the parts first tho.
As a simple degreaser its not very good and will leave a very blotchy and shitty appearance.
As far as sand cast surfaces go, I think you might like it. looks better than new!
L8tr
E
[Edited on 1/5/05 by tassupervee]
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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jaksc
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posted on May 1st, 2005 at 09:03 PM |
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thanks for the tip. I'll give it a go and see how it comes up
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akean1
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posted on May 2nd, 2005 at 02:29 PM |
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wire brush works well, here is a link to my painted motor, used motor spray heat proof paint from auto barn
http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?action=attachment&ti...
[Edited on 2-5-2005 by akean1]
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jaksc
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posted on May 2nd, 2005 at 09:16 PM |
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Thanks for the pictures
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type3lover
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posted on May 2nd, 2005 at 11:28 PM |
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Hi,
This case was bead blasted while apart and came up a treat. I like the look of bare clean metal, but it took a lot of air and washing before I was
satisfied that all the grit was gone. If I do another engine I'd probably use the VHT alloy paint for a long lasting good look. I've used VHT paints
on other engines (non VW) and it is really good stuff. Works best if baked for a while.
Cheers!
Toby
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jaksc
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posted on May 3rd, 2005 at 05:55 PM |
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What do you mean baked awhile.
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vassy66T1
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posted on May 3rd, 2005 at 07:41 PM |
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I don't claim to know by personal experience, but a trusted VW mechanic said that painting your case will keep heat in the motor, thereby increasing
your oil temperature.
Best to leave it unpainted according to him. Especially the cylinders and heads, but apparently the case as well.
cheers
vassy
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type3lover
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posted on May 4th, 2005 at 06:06 PM |
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You bake it in an industrial oven at 200 degrees C for 30 minutes I think. From memory I think it was even recommended on the VHT tin but I may be
wrong. Would pay to check this. I had my barrels done this way.
Cheers!
Toby
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jaksc
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posted on May 4th, 2005 at 08:11 PM |
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cleaned it all up with mr muscle but i think i will paint it as well for the desired result. need a bit more information on what vassy wrote regarding
paint holding the heat in, i think i need to ask around. if it is a problem i will just be happy with the finish i have.
Cheers
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tassupervee
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posted on May 6th, 2005 at 09:19 PM |
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M8, forstly, did they come up alright with the oven cleaner?
Secondly, i would not get bent out of shape about painted cases retaining heat.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Kombi_Rescue
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posted on May 7th, 2005 at 09:33 AM |
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guya any form of coating effects heat retention..steve knott from comp engines is also a ceramic coater...his view leave the case paint free and i
agree...otherwise a factory exchanged engine [aircooled] would of been painted which vw didnot...sounds like there is something there??remember the
case also acts as a cooler! cheers dsk steve
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Whitty
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posted on May 7th, 2005 at 10:32 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by type3lover
You bake it in an industrial oven at 200 degrees C for 30 minutes I think.
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Mums oven with all the trays taken out can work also.........:thumb:thumb:thumb
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OZ Towdster
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posted on May 7th, 2005 at 11:03 AM |
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Only as long as MUMS not home
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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koolkarmakombi
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posted on May 8th, 2005 at 07:36 AM |
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I think Brad did proper testing on this and found the paint made stuff all difference.
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jaksc
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posted on May 8th, 2005 at 08:19 PM |
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Now i,m getting confused. The mr muscle did come up alright but not as good as i would like. the picture of the painted case and barrels look trick.I
talked to another bloke and he said a light coat of paint SHOULD be fine
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