| [ Total Views: 697 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 49235 ] |
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 Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on February 23rd, 2006 at 09:40 PM |
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spark plug choice
i know this has been argued before but i couldnt find the thread.
im running NGK B5HS plugs in my 1600 sp with 009 and GT40 coil.
is this a good combo?
how does one select a spark plug based on application?
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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ctefeh
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| posted on February 23rd, 2006 at 09:52 PM |
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It's an OK choice
Not being privy to the former discussion, the B5HS is the NGK equivalent of Bosch's W8AC. For your combo, it's fine.
A rule of thumb is : Hot Motor = Cold Plug
B5HS is the middle heat range of NGK plugs, 1 being hottest, 10 being coldest.
For instance, some two stroke road bikes I owned used the pretty standard fitment B8ES.
My 851 Ducati used D9EV's, my former Mxer's and chook chasers used B9EV.
I personally find NGK's classification system dead simple.
Regards
Ctefeh
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on February 23rd, 2006 at 09:58 PM |
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ok so if the 5 is the heat of the plug
what are the letters?
sori this is something i know nothing about...when u say its an "ok" choice do u mean its ok but u could make a better one?
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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ctefeh
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| posted on February 23rd, 2006 at 10:53 PM |
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NGK classification
Anthiron,
I have the book somewhere that explains it all but simply put....
First letter is thread size, B=14, D=10
There can be other letters after the thread size..e.g
P or PR or R
P=Projected Insulator (into the combustion chamber)
R=Resistor type plug
The numeric indicates heat range
next letter is thread reach or length, E=standard reach, H=short reach
Last one or two indicates electrode material and/or type
e.g V=small diameter electrode (maybe better material, it's been a long time since I owned said bikes), GV=small electrode of gold pallidium
material, S=standard electrode
Your motor combo is pretty stock, so therefore a stock plug is a good choice. Using a "V" type (B5HV) is wasted money.
Let's say however you went 10:1 compression, goofy juice, wild cam with sewer sized ports/valves etc I would
start at "9" and work up the heat range.
Let me say categorically I don't build engines, it's just giving you a general idea.
Regards
Ctefeh
[ Edited on 23/2/2006 by ctefeh ]
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BiX
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| posted on February 24th, 2006 at 08:27 AM |
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upgrade to the NGK irridum, i used to have issues with plugs fouling, with the irridum, never had the problem. They cost a bit more ($20 each, but
then i only replace them every year (15K to 20K)
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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bus914
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| posted on February 24th, 2006 at 09:28 AM |
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aren't irridiums ment to last 100,000 km?
i use cheap extended tip plugs of the same heat range in my bus - 20, 000 km and still good. -> note this may cause premature engine death in some
instances.
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
The Baja Rejuvenation Begins
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| posted on February 24th, 2006 at 11:40 AM |
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thanks for the info guys
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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BiX
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| posted on February 26th, 2006 at 02:15 PM |
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yes They ar meant to, but i find i like to replace them at 20k, they look fine, but i just do it to be sure. I am only on my second set in 2 years...
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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