| [ Total Views: 897 | Total Replies: 10 | Thread Id: 67845 ] |
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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on March 3rd, 2008 at 06:23 PM |
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Removing fan shroud from a type4 van motor?
Hello,
I just want to check whether what I want to do is stupid.
I have pulled the big alloy shroud thing off in the past after I have stripped the tinware and had the motor out, but I want to know if it can be
remved without pulling everything off. I know I'd have to pull the fan/flywheel pulley off (and of course remove the retaining bolts behind the
pulley) and undo the tinware bolts attached to it, but anything else?
Incidentally it doesn't have the air thermostat so I don't have to pull that off.
I want to pull it off to find the source of the ever worsening oil leak. I know the idiot light sender is one source, but I suspect the oil cooler is
the main culprit.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Menangler
A.k.a.: Dave Becker
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| posted on March 3rd, 2008 at 06:38 PM |
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Yes it can be done in the van, you remove all you said, and you will also need to loosen the heater boxes, so they can an drop down a bit, or cut the
heater boxes where they attach to the fan housing, so you can pull the fan housing back to clear the 4 studs that locate it before it can be removed.
hope this makes sence.
Dave
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 10:38 AM |
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Thanks for that.
So far I have stripped off some of the tinware, pulled off the oil filler and fan, and took off the oil filter for a better view. Unfortunately the
result was still ambiguous as to where the leak is.
I've been hunting for a compatible idiot light sender to replace my leaking one. The trouble is I'm lacking some key information.
Is this right or wrong: The sender uses is 10mm with a 1mm thread pitch. The socket needed to remove it is 24mm. The thread is straight and not
tapered.
Once I swap the sender out I'll put enough back on to prevent an instant cooking and see if it still leaks. I'll see results in a few seconds as the
drip is getting dangerously close to a stream.
If it still leaks I'll pull off the fan housing (if necessary) to gain access to the oil cooler for the purpose of changing the O rings.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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 matberry
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 08:42 PM |
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Yes. Oil press sender is 10 x 1 mm thread with 24mm longreach socket required.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 09:00 PM |
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and is a straight thread not tapered
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on March 21st, 2008 at 09:14 AM |
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Great. So I'm on the right track then.
None of the local businesses could help me, including Repco, the local instrumentation place and Bursons.
Now I know exactly what I need. I didn't want to risk it with the socket without getting confirmation. I need to buy one. Which is a little weird
because I thought I'd changed the sender on the van before. maybe it was on the beetle after all.
This may be a silly question, but if I wanted to fit a pressure gauge instead, what's stopping me from putting it there?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 21st, 2008 at 10:05 AM |
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Don't forget where the oil filter alloy adaptor bolts to the case-a gasket there that can leak.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on March 21st, 2008 at 11:43 AM |
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That's a good point.
There was oil pooled in the top of the oil filter around its lip, so it could have conceivably run down there.
I know as absolute fact that the oil pressure sender is leaking from the blade connector, which can also run down there, but it seems like an awful
lot of oil to come from there alone.
So is there any reason why I can't just fit a pressure sensor there?
Also I can't see any reason why I can't use some electronics to utilise a pressure sender as both a pressure sender and an idiot light sender.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on April 6th, 2008 at 07:50 AM |
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I finally got the 24mm socket and idiot light sender. It can be so hard getting hold of anything in these parts.
Anyway, changed the senders over and put enough back on to run the van without cooking. The leak is 99% stopped. The remaining could either be extra
runoff oil that the degreaser didn't get or a leaky pushrod tube. Anyway, I'm happy.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
A.k.a.: Brennden Alder
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| posted on April 6th, 2008 at 03:32 PM |
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If you have a leak above the oil filter check the bungs on the case. They are bungs for the oil gallories and they are more often than not the sources
of the leak. clean them right up and then centre punch the case around them and devcon them up with the 2 part epoxy resin. did this with all the
bungs on my Type 4 case and along with good quality german pushrod tube seals my engine hardly leaked a drop of oil. another place you can have an oil
leak is the oil filler tube on the other side of the engine. the bolt up surface is never flat and the gasket can't take up the excess. Plus some
people tighten them up to the point of wapring the sealing surface. I used a piece of glass with a random orbital sticky disc stuck to it to surface
the filler tube and it was far from being flat.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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| posted on April 6th, 2008 at 08:42 PM |
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Oddly enough it looks as though the galleries you mentioned are already epoxied I know I didn't do that. I've never touched them.
The oil filler tube is a curse at best. Through some type of magic, the second last time I dropped the motor and had to remove the filler, I managed
to put it back on successfully without leaking. Beforehand it leaked lots.
Speaking of which, the rubber concertina thingy on the dipstick tube... where on earth can I get a replacement? Mine is stuffed.
Somehow I think even O rings handcrafted by Ferdinand Porsche would stop the leaking completely. The heads aren't exactly minty. Still, it has been a
few years and another set of O rings couldn't hurt.
edit:
Err... I found another leak source post replacement of the sender. It seems I forgot to retighten the oil filter when I took everything off. Whoops!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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