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njg02
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posted on June 25th, 2008 at 08:39 PM |
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Distributor question
'73 type 3 wagon. Factory dual carb, vac advance dizzy.
Evening all. I've just been checking out my dizzy a/c getting a touch of pinging. My vac hose was fairly loose so I removed it and the engine tone
did not change. I sucked and blew on the hose to the dizzy and it appeared to be blocked. The dizzy plate did not move as well. I gave it another go
and it appeared to unblock but it now wheezes when I suck or blow. Would the diaphram on the dizzy be cactus?
I also put the vac hose back on the carb to see if I had a vac signal but it doesn't.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Neil
71 super in progress.
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BRUTUS
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posted on June 25th, 2008 at 10:49 PM |
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Sounds like the diaphragm needs replacing. Try to get the same type at a good VW wrecker/2nd hand place, ie with the same 3 digit number stamped into
the little arm (inside dist.). Check it works, too!
But if it's a late original type 3, wouldn't it have the mechanical advance + DUAL vacuum dist? ie "JFUR 4". If it's the dual type there'd be
two vacuum hoses and larger advance unit. Both can be plugged, at the distributor end, and the dist. will work as normal indefinitely, as the
mech-part does all the advancing(set timing statically at 7.5 to 10deg). The late setup should have two vac connexions on the LH carb & manifold
- if only one is connected, it could be causing lean running.
The earlier 1600's had a more normal vacuum + mech advance unit. If that type ("SVDA"?) the vacuum unit must be replaced for it to advance
properly.
Earlier type 3 's again had all vac advance. (pre-1600 I think).
ACE 30 & 40 oils: specifically engineered for your Air Cooled VW
delivered (free del.) throughout Yarra Valley / Ranges, & Gippsland areas. Also ACE 20, 50 & 90.
FOR SALE: ACE 30, 40 etc. Oil formulations & Trade-names.
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njg02
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posted on June 26th, 2008 at 07:41 AM |
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Thanks Brutus. My dizzy is single vac advance. The arm doesn't move when I suck or blow.
The car idles well, runs ok but hasn't got much over 50mph and is pinging occaisionally.
If the carb vac is blocked is it easy to rectify? It didn't have a signal when I revved it last night.
Neil
71 super in progress.
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greedy53
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posted on June 26th, 2008 at 08:52 AM |
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vac will not effect idel only when you want to bug out in a hurry
plant the foot causes vac dizzy moves to stop pinging etc after the fix a retune will be in order and it will go a lot better
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1303Steve
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posted on June 26th, 2008 at 09:05 AM |
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Hi
If your dizzy has the two piece points the vac unit can be hard to find, they were made locally. If it has the one peice points like a 009 they are
German dizzies and are usually cheaper and easy to get. Having the vacuum advance working just makes the car drive nicer all round.
Steve
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njg02
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posted on June 26th, 2008 at 09:09 AM |
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Steve, yeah two peice points Aussie made dizzy. Might find some dough and get a new svda.
Thanks
neil
71 super in progress.
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1303Steve
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posted on June 26th, 2008 at 09:43 AM |
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Hi
I needed a vac can for a local Beetle dizzy and it was $90.
Steve
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Joel
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posted on June 26th, 2008 at 05:51 PM |
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i got a replacement bosch can for my 71 super a few years ago it was $40 but im sure prices woulda gone up since then
there is an early model volvo that has the exact same bosch dissy as a late 1600 but its got factory electronic ignition in it
i forget which model now but it was late 70s early 80s
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BRUTUS
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posted on June 27th, 2008 at 11:41 PM |
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Neil,how did you go? The cheapest 'new' solution could be a 009, which I like (simple; basic), but many now prefer the SVDA. But I think ia 009 is
good on a type 3. BUT you'll need to block the one (or Two?) vac connexions to the LH carb/manifold.
Or you can buy a new (used?) SVDA, but I expect this will cost more?
Secret type 3 info!!! If you can find a S/H distrib. from a fuel-injected Fastback (TL-E) in good condition, this can work very well too. It has
lots of advance (at lowish revs, like the 009), but more total advance, Plus the vacuum action... These are the ones with the 'longer' body (and 2
large extra contacts built into the base). We've used two of these on two different type 3 carb'd engines (1600 & 1640) & they seem to work
very well. (There were at least 7 variants of these, maybe some are better than others.}
Last mentioned units are "JFURX 4", or VW #311 905 205 .. (where .. denotres one OR two letters).
Don't fix the vacuum blockage until you have a good diaphargm or a well blocked hose. There should be no audible pinging up to about 10 deg. static
advance with whatever combination of bits you have!
ACE 30 & 40 oils: specifically engineered for your Air Cooled VW
delivered (free del.) throughout Yarra Valley / Ranges, & Gippsland areas. Also ACE 20, 50 & 90.
FOR SALE: ACE 30, 40 etc. Oil formulations & Trade-names.
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1500S
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posted on June 28th, 2008 at 09:04 AM |
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As rare as hen's teeth but for the Type 3 the Bosch ZV/JCU 4R3 one year only 1964 from the 1500S (high comp one) vacuum/mechanical distributor is
also a good one to use. Very few here in OZ but the Yanks seem to have quite a few hanging around.
I seem to remember that many Type 3 distributors has #3 cylinder retarded just a bit compared to the other three as it run a bit hotter from the oil
cooler position. In the past, some had problems by forgetting this and if they dropped the dizzy drive in 180 deg out they would just swap the leads
around resulting in the wrong cylinder having the retard.
DH
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njg02
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posted on June 28th, 2008 at 07:22 PM |
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I've got a 009 to put in hopefully next week and see how that goes. I'll check the samba and see what some of those guys have available as well.
Thanks for your help guys.
Niel
71 super in progress.
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Joel
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posted on June 29th, 2008 at 10:04 AM |
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every type3 ive driven with a 009 has been a dog at low revs
can u rotate the points plate by hand still ie not siezed?
it would be worth pricing a new vac can for ur existing dizzy
would cost less than a new 009 and would be so much nicer to drive and better on fuel
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