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Author: Subject:  VW Beetle air cleaner (oil bath)
MemberBlue65
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posted on October 15th, 2009 at 02:46 PM
VW Beetle air cleaner (oil bath)


Hi,

I am re-fitting the original VW air cleaner into my engine. I gave it a clean but I accidentally tore the weighted flap handle for the air intake.

(I'm so pissed off now - I gave it a pull and it broke because the other side was caught on the tin lip.)

There seems to be a hook for the other handle but no wire or anything.

I did some research on this and (the other flap handle) was to be used in conjunction with the thermostat. which I assume is for the colder European/NH weather.

I'm just wondering whether I should attempt to solder the weighted flap handle back.




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posted on October 15th, 2009 at 10:26 PM



Hiya Blue,

What production year is the air filter?




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posted on October 15th, 2009 at 10:58 PM



I'm not sure. But its the air cleaner with the dome and a single air intake - that's where the flap is.



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posted on October 16th, 2009 at 12:52 AM



That's for the hot air intake.
hot air is a ready to burn air...
if u think u can solder or braze it on do it.

but i wouldn't bother tho.. it'll soon be summer :)
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posted on October 16th, 2009 at 12:55 AM



That counter weighted flap is for case emissions. The carb sucks in the case fumes at idle and low rpm's .
The other flap further towards the end of the oil bath is for controlling preheat during warm up. Originally there was a thermostat setup, depending on year model, that was either controlled by vacuum or by a thermostat pushrod setup connected straight to the flap. Both types of switch parts are impossible to find in working order these days and to my knowledge that part/parts has never been re-manufactured.
Most of the oil baths you see now have these bits pulled out.
To your question ,it depends how anal you want to get to make it work I suppose.
I am using a 72 oil bath which has a vacuum can mounted on the oil bath which controls the preheat flap. I control switching using a rheostat connected to a valve solenoid. The rheostats probe sits in the top of the oil bath and is switched at 40*C.
I prob dont really need preheat up here in QLD but it makes the car very drivable from the turn of the key. No sitting in the driveway for ten minutes warming up in winter and no poor running during warm up. In summer the preheat flap closes pretty quickly.
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posted on October 17th, 2009 at 06:55 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Blue65
Hi,

I am re-fitting the original VW air cleaner into my engine. I gave it a clean but I accidentally tore the weighted flap handle for the air intake.

(I'm so pissed off now - I gave it a pull and it broke because the other side was caught on the tin lip.)

There seems to be a hook for the other handle but no wire or anything.

I did some research on this and (the other flap handle) was to be used in conjunction with the thermostat. which I assume is for the colder European/NH weather.

I'm just wondering whether I should attempt to solder the weighted flap handle back.



Hi
the other end was made to push under the lip in the summer.

Most air cleaners I see , especially the very early ones, the flap is usually missing... worn out..

the 1968 air cleaner was double sided....
I have a 1971 single sided oil bath air cleaner on My beetle.

Mine also has a square rubber grommet that I presume was used with the thermostatically controlled flap...

these air cleaners in the US also had a short cable attached..
for something...??

Mine has none of these extras... lol

LEE

PS: VW advertised that You Didn't have to wait for the VW engine to warm up... You just started the engine and drove away... and that is what i do...

thats why they had the automatic choke...

[I don't have an auto choke on mine]
always goes OK.. even at 4C degrees.. LEE



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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]


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