| [ Total Views: 820 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 91072 ] |
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 sander288
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 posted on June 16th, 2011 at 12:12 PM |
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Which Clutch??
Hey All,
I've jsut taken out my clutch and I will be replacing it with a new one; at the moment it has a brazilian F&S clutch disc and the german Sachs
Pressue plate.
The car isn't driven on the street and is only used on the track so I was thinking of a Kennedy Stage 1 plate and maybe a RLR Black magic, but this
might be too harsh?
I'm not sure exactly what to choose though so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
Shaun
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on June 16th, 2011 at 01:16 PM |
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I'll be keent o see what people have to say. Sander can you please post engine basics. Cheers
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sander288
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| posted on June 16th, 2011 at 01:25 PM |
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 You couldn't be more right when you say engine basics!!!
The engine reads STOCK at the moment with some bolt on goodies but it will be rebuilt to go a bit better.
1285cc
Stock Internals - will eventually get upgraded with hotter cam and lightened flywheel and ratio rockers (potentially)
1 3/8 Extractor - soon to be upgraded to a merged 1 3/8
Stock 30 pict - upgrading to single weber DCN
1300 Single port heads - in the process of getting rebuilt and ported for max efficency
C/R - 7.3:1 (stock) will be bumped up after heads come back
not expecting alot of power but alot of Lol's! 
the car isn't made for all out power its going under historic rules (ps all those who read my dual port head post I've sinced checked with one
official who said if the DP heads weren't on a beetle then I can't use them!!! only if I had a type 3!)
Other change to follow is a rebuilt gearbox with a shorter 4th and possible matched gears(1-3) ratios to the motor.
Cheers
Shaun
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sander288
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| posted on June 16th, 2011 at 01:26 PM |
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seriously considering Aircooled Net's Copperhead clutch anyone with experience?
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Copperhead-200mm-Clutch-Disc-p/copperhead.htm
also read a good thread about it on the samba
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 16th, 2011 at 03:25 PM |
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I have 177hp Subaru motor in MY beetle and itS just a stage 2 Kennedy and i think its a stock sach clutch plate and I welded about 2cm onto end of the
clutch release lever to make the pedal effort lighter check on Jak rizzo post as he does heaps of racing or send him a PM
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 matberry
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| posted on June 16th, 2011 at 08:49 PM |
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Stage 1 with a stock disc will be fine IMO for up to around 170 fwhp or more, even racing. My old 2332 (140rwhp) is still going strong with 4 drag
events and about 20 000km under it's belt with this setup.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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sander288
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 06:34 PM |
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just reviving this old thread,
going to be getting my new clutch whilst i'm waiting for Stan to finsih my engine,
Ordering a Kennedy stage 1 and now going in between different stock clutches, not sure whether to go with a sprung german disc (200mm) or the rigid
brazillian ones.
Reading other threads and forums people are saying the sprung is smoother but not reliable, not really sure about which to go with as I will only be
racing the car and heading towards tarmac rallies in the future so wanted something that will be kind to the car and throwout bearing
The power of the motor is going up considerably from before but still nothing to write home about so what are people's thoughts?
Cheers
Shaun
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hellbugged
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 07:02 PM |
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get rid of the springs.....i have broken them before with SFA horsepower....they are only to smooth the "in or out" part of the engagement
anyhows.
The reason for a spring disc is to compensate for poor driving skills. It helps smooth out the driver’s roughness. For many applications it is fine
to use a spring disc. However, be clear that it may not stand up under drag race starts or higher HP engines. It is for this reason that it has only 3
rivets holding it together and can pull apart at that location, whereas the solid one has 8 rivets holding the center in.
get a berg dual friction solid disc and be done with it. i ran one with evertything from stocko 1300 to 2180 with 2500pd pressure plate on the street
for years and it never looked like wearing out
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sander288
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 07:57 PM |
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where can I get one of those Daimo?
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 08:50 PM |
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Hi
Your 1300 will have a 180 mm clutch, get Stan to upgrade the flywheel to a 200 mm
I forgot to say, my sons bug the Stage 1 with a cushlock lasted 20,000 and then the diaphragm collapsed
Steve
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sander288
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| posted on September 19th, 2011 at 11:40 AM |
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I've checked the clutch and it was already upgraded to a 12v 200mm at some stage.
What sought of clutch are you using now steve?
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HappyDaze
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| posted on September 19th, 2011 at 12:02 PM |
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Ian is right about lengthening the thow-out lever. It eases the srtain on the cable, and your leg, and also reduces the chance of over-travel of the
diaphragm [Steve's son's problem, maybe?]. Adjust the cable so that the clutch JUST dis-engages, to avoid excess travel of the diaphragm. A bit of
free-play won't hurt.
Sounds as though things are progressing well, Shaun.
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 19th, 2011 at 12:08 PM |
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Hi
Were running a another Stage 1 Kennedy with a cushlock disc. I always had the adjustment very loose, about 35-40 mm freeplay. Davids bug already has
the longer arm, the clutch is very light actually.
The car does see a bit of traffic use
Steve
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Sides
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| posted on September 19th, 2011 at 12:38 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by sander288
where can I get one of those Daimo?
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Love it Shaun... asking Daimo where to get Berg gear from !!!
Agree should go for a Kennedy Stage 1... that's what I've run in Jezzi basically for ever, both as street car and race car. Can't say a bad word
against it.
Clutch plate has always just been a stock'o German, and not had one slip on me yet.
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