I hooked up the cooling fans yesterday and made them run backwards-didn't end well.When they were running backwards,they didn't produce as much air as when going the correct way and made a strange noise.I checked the cause-the blades have a fixed curve in them to make more air and run quiet.Decided to remove everything,and put the fans on the other side of the radiator and try it.Fans are running the correct way,make heaps of air,run fairly quiet and are bringing air across them as in the standard set up.Had to shift all the brackets to shift the radiator closer to the motor.Made the top radiator locating pins to be now part of a full width deflector panel which will force all the incoming engine bay air through the radiator.
some more
I still say we need a 'LIKE' button on these forums 👍
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.A couple of Suby questions-is there an adaptor already available to bolt to the air flow meter to take a pod filter,or do you have to make your own?There is a valve on the intake manifold,just near the throttle body-is it for cold starting?It has a large hose going to the intake pipe,2 water hoses and a small loom.
That is the idle control valve, yes it is for cold start but works all the time at idle. Get some carby cleaner and go to town on it to clean it up. Move the cylindrical valve around to get right in there.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Anybody know if an adaptor for a pod filter is available to suit the Suby air flow meter?I cant find anything.
Kennedy Engineering make something, no idea how good it is but come with a muffler in reduce intake noise. Designed for T3 use, no idea what it looks like without the muffler bit or whether is comes seperately.
http://www.kennedyenginc.com/Pages/SubaruVanagonGen.aspx
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Nice job mate can you please tell me where you got the air bag kit from.
Cheers Kiwi
Thanks Brent-looks like my Tig and lathe are going to get a workout for the pod filter mount.The bloke got the loom and reckons it's all good-just a few small jobs-thanks for that as well.
Kiwiev-got it all from Airkewld in the States.Got the 2 rear bags,front shocks and front lower arm extenders,the rear top and bottom plates and the bag air fittings.I will get the solenoids,switches,guages and hose from somebody here.You could probably get it all here,but I am hoping Airkewld got the correct weight bags and shocks for a Beetle's weight needs.They don't give very good fitting instructions,so it was a lot of tack weld-try-cut-reweld-try-etc.I am also a bit luckier because it doesn't all have to fit under a Beetle body.They cut a large amount from the rear suspension arm to keep the bag low enough so that the top bag mount will fit under the body.The rear suspension arm is really compromised for strength.I mounted my lower plate on the arm without any need to cut into it at all.The fronts were a major PITA,trying to get the arc of travel correct.I had a look at their website about the top mount extenders,and copied theirs fairly close.When the suspension was fully depressed,the lower arm and shock alignment were almost a straight line,which would have been impossible for the shock to inflate and extend.I worked out the travel arc and fabricated new top mounts to suit.Also had to get the bumpstop in the right place to prevent the shocker bottoming out before the stops were hit.
Thanks for that mate I was thinking of baging the rear of my super bug eventually I have to pull body off replace one pan and do the dreaded death foam. Has anyone you know of done oval window in a super bug? Dont mind fibre glass or steel handy with both.
Thinking of installing twin AC electric motors 250 Hp 250 ft lb and Tesla batteries.
Thanks for the advice
Cheers Kiwi
kiwiev wrote:Thanks for that mate I was thinking of baging the rear of my super bug eventually I have to pull body off replace one pan and do the dreaded death foam. Has anyone you know of done oval window in a super bug? Dont mind fibre glass or steel handy with both.
Thinking of installing twin AC electric motors 250 Hp 250 ft lb and Tesla batteries.
Thanks for the advice
Cheers Kiwi
I don't understand your meaning of "oval in a superbug" ? If you mean Oval body on a Superbug pan- yes the body will fit any IRS/ ball joint pan. Rear body support to floor pan is the only difference - just need to modify the bracket on the Oval body to suit. It's a really good conversion if your into the small window body.The 2 front body mounts may need slight mods.
Oval rear window I heard there was panel you could cut and weld or even a fibre glass panel.
But a body swap is food for thought too.
Thanks Kiwi
An oval body won't go onto a superbug pan without also changing the frame head on the pan to a beam, so you will lose the struts. It will go onto any other beam pan (K&L or BJ), but the oval body doesn't have the mounts for the top of the struts etc.
I have seen those oval conversions, but I don't know who does them unfortunately.
From your ole' mate Jeff
Kiwiev- as I stated the Oval body will fit any IRS/ ball joint pan- but a lot of work. I googled the oval conversion and found a hinged panel that fills the big back window with a split conversion - couldn't find who makes them. Will spend a bit more time chasing it.
Thanks mate
I want to keep the super bug body and pan as it has front disc brakes and struts, I have got wide front 67 look fiberglass guards and wide fibreglass rear guards.
I was trying to get the old look.
And as I have the death foam rust around rear window was wanting to continue the old look, split rear window does sound cool.
So what body look are you looking for with your rod?
Cheers Kiwi
I have a complete 54 and a bare 56 body only- the 56 is in fairly good shape at the fro nt but ordinary around the arse end. Won't bother me to cut it in half to make a ute body.
Is it critical which way the air flow meter sits? Does the electrical switch housing have to be on top? I would like it to be 90 degrees from on top.
Finished my air filter pod to air flow meter adaptor.I had an old turbo that went down hard real early in the Drag Car build.I cut the intake flange off,machined it round to fit in some 10mm ally plate.Welded it on the meter side,then machined it flat for the O ring to seal.
Drilled and threaded for 6mm bolts.
Nice work mate do you have a photo of it sitting on?
Cheers Kiwi
Which part Kiwiev??
The air pod sensor on motor if you have got that far just trying to visualize it.
On another note do you have a link to your power window kit looking for something for the 66 bug.
Cheers Kiwi
I have it just sitting in position-but think I may cut most of the plastic intake pipe off and mount the air flow meter just after the bend which will have the pod filter inside my support frame.I will be making an alloy cover to go over the whole engine and transmission, to ensure all air coming into the engine bay goes thru the radiator.The pod filter will also be in this air flow.I have finished the rear frame today-it's all tacked together.I may fit a diagonal brace between the top and bottom side engine bars.It's really strong as it is-I can lift the whole pan from the rear bar without any deflection.I will be fabricating a tow bar to weld to the rear lower bar.
I managed to find a home for the radiator overflow bottle which is out of the way but still close enough for a joiner hose.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/111204502213-0-0/s-l140/p.jpg
I don't know if this works Kiwi-it's what I ordered from Ebay.It's a universal 2 door car electric window kit.
Thanks mate for the link im concerned about relying on the winder mechanism, I will wait and see how your pan out.
Love the idea of the radiator facing rear what sort of rear end panels are you boing to use to cover the motor etc?
Cheers Kiwi
I am a long way off from doing the windows. I guess like everything else,there will be a lot of modifications. I am doing 1 piece windows in this car.I did them in my Oval and they are so easy to wind.Those electric motors will have no trouble moving the glass if the window regs are the same as the Oval's. I have had new glass made with the dark tint in the glass.I won't know how I'm going to cover the motor until I am ready to do it. I have a few ideas- but it will all fall into place as I'm doing it. The side panels will be the same as my Drag Car,but this one will need to have a lot of heat and road grime protection. Will also need a sealed area for travel bags etc.
Going awesome there Gary!
When are you running the drag car next? will have to come for a look..
Can't wait to see the rod finished.
DUBS BY THE RIVER 2021 Morgan SA - Sept 18-19 2021
Currently suffering from delusions of sanity!
Some time in November is the next meet if all goes well with the club.Hot rod is a bigger project than I imagined - had the old rose coloured glasses on when I dreamed this up. Should have known better after the Drag Car. In too deep now.
Had to get back on the lathe tonight.The front air shocks have an 1/8th inch plastic line to inflate them.I want to use 1/4inch high pressure line on the whole car.I searched for an adaptor of any sort-nothing available.The fitting on the shocker is 7/16th UNF,so bought some bolts and made the first one.I will silver solder the fitting into the steel boss I made.I threaded the hole to 1/4 bsp to take the brass 1/4inch connectors.I will weld the boss to the front beam in an appropriate spot where I can keep the 1/8th line to a minimum.
