I am new to the beetle world, but I have been busy restoring an old 911 for the past couple of years, so that sort of counts. I have just recently ventured into the world of Beetles and I have picked up a surprisingly rust free '71 Super.
I have a YouTube channel as an outlet for my love of restoring classic cars, and I am really excited to get stuck into this new project. I am only new to the Beetle world so I am keen for any advice you guys can give me.
Anyway, here is my first video to give you an intro to the car.
Backyard hack car builder with a YouTube channel youtube.com/homebuiltbyjeff
That looks like a great project Jeff (and spelt correctly too). You should also share it on SBO - Super Beetles Only - http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/ A lot of Super owners world wide would be very interested in this.
beetleboyjeff wrote:That looks like a great project Jeff (and spelt correctly too). You should also share it on SBO - Super Beetles Only - http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/ A lot of Super owners world wide would be very interested in this.
Love the presentation of the video by the way
Thanks mate. Yep, definitely not a Gee-off.
I will go and check it out.
Backyard hack car builder with a YouTube channel youtube.com/homebuiltbyjeff
The cause of the cutting out when hot could be the coil on it's way out, and failing when it heats up. If it was hot and you stopped for a few minutes, it could be a vapour lock in the fuel line if it is too close to the heads and getting too hot.
The most likely cause of the vague 2nd gear is the bush in the tunnel for the gear shift, or the connection of the gear shaft to the front of the gear box. They are both quite in-expensive, and the connector is quite easy to fit. The bush is a bit more fiddly, but not too bad.
If you search this site, there is already a lot of answers to these questions, or there are a number of YouTube videos to show you how to do these things, especially the gear selector shaft bush etc. - look for ones by Joel - he really knows his stuff and explains it very well
Your learning quickly how to work on these oversize Meccano sets.
You can safely take the dizzy out by undoing the M8 nut that holds the clamp onto the motor, it has an offset drive so you cant get it back in wrong, you will find it much easier to work on. The bolt or male threaded section is welded to the clamp.
You have your timing marks mixed up as well. TDC is on the outer rim and looks like a grinder mark.
Looks like a thread was stripped in the head previously, get a new plug and leave like that unless you want start tearing the motor down.
forgot to say that your choke must still be on for the fast idle cam to be sitting where it is. The screw in the arm is used setting the throttle plate so that it doesn't jam when the throttle is released quickly, so it should just touch the fast idle cam
This week I finished off servicing the Bug, which included replacing the fluids, and relocating the fuel filter. I also got around to replacing the broken quarter window latch.
Backyard hack car builder with a YouTube channel youtube.com/homebuiltbyjeff
Home Built by Jeff wrote:I am back into the Beetle and this week I repair the rust in the battery tray and then tidy up the engine bay.
Hi,
Like you videos they are great and I just watched your battery box repair and painting the engine bay and noticed that you may want to fit a hose clamp on the top hose on your fuel pump which you may have done already.
I mention this because I purchased a 71 bug that a young guy who pent 3 years getting it restored by a company in Cromer and after having it for 12 months had a mechanic remove a relay off an electric fuel pump and 10 minutes down the road it caught on fire and as he had spent a bomb on it, how does $170,000 sound as he gave me all the receipts, he didn't want to spend any more on it and I was the lucky one to buy it.
He even had it investigated but to no avail they couldn't prove that the mechanic had done it, he also gave me the copies of the investigation.
Anyway that's the reason I mention the clamp om the fuel line.
The previous owner put the 3 year restoration on you Tube as 1971 Kameleon VW Beetle restoration there is about 12 pieces in it .
Thanks Darryl. I have clamps on the fuel line from the pump to the carby, but I need to go back and put some more on the line to the fuel pump. It is very tight, but it doesn't hurt to be over cautious.
This week the plan was to do the brakes, but first I had to replace the dodgy fuel pump that started leaking in last weeks episode.
Backyard hack car builder with a YouTube channel youtube.com/homebuiltbyjeff
This week my goals were to replace the rear brakes, but first I thought I would fix the dodgy fuel pump issue... Well there was a slight issue with that.
Backyard hack car builder with a YouTube channel youtube.com/homebuiltbyjeff
Jeff, to undo the axle nut without the wheel on, get a longish, heavy piece of steel angle (say 1m or more) with a hole in one end, and use one of the wheel nuts to bolt it to the drum. With the other end of the angle on the ground, let the drum rotate until the angle hits on the centre of the drum. This will then stop any movement at the nut as you try to undo it.
The other way to do it is with a torque multiplier . Have a talk to Vintage Vee Dub Supplies (Boris) - 02 97 891 777 - he may have them, or have other suggestions.
