while all this real building is going on, i'm playing with spraycans out the back and making 30yearold tinware look more like 20 year old tinware 😀 if you look real close you can see a frikken huge aeroplane engine parked behind stan's open wheeler... so i put my tinware near it all in the hopes some of it's HP would get soaked up 😉
at this point of the proceedings, i had to go and get a bib, and eventually hung a bucket around my neck to stem the flow of drool... it was only a matter of time.... lovely to see all the bits snick together like a well-choreographed .... something. 😀
notice the rusty ol 94s :thumb
Craig playing greasemonkey.. 😀
notice the devil-may-care attitude to flying shards of steel as we cobbled together a slightly better flowing exhaust system.... thanks again for the use of your tools and FLAT AREA!!!! and the scary MIG... got that new handset yet btw?
Something I found interesting when looking at it. It was taken to 95kph in 3rd. With Brad's gearbox and tyres, it would only be doing about 3920rpm at 95kph. So his engine is making 48HP at 3920rpm. That ain't so bad.
Here's something interesting. I have put together a flywheel HP chart for various aussie VW engines (and my V6 of course 😀 ).
Now what I have done is taken the wheel HP dyno plots and converted them to engine HP. To do this I divided the street cars by 83%, assuming a gearbox efficiency of 83%, which is about right for most drivelines.
Brad however is running big CV angles and the less efficient kombi gearbox, so I have dropped his efficiency to 75% to compensate.
Now Brad has heaps less HP, but his torque ain't so bad. Brad's peak torque is only a little off Jak's peak torque. The difference is Jak makes his 3000rpm higher than brad, hence the huge HP difference.
You see the race VW engines make peak torque at ~5000rpm. I am guessing they don't do much below 3000rpm.
Brad's engine makes peak torque at 2000rpm. Great for offroading and a torque monster. It is saying his heads and cam are too small, which he already knows. But under 3,000rpm Brad probably has the most powerful VW motor. Would need to see dyno charts for the other cars down to 2000rpm to be sure.
Baja Wes wrote:I do know you can get workshops to put an SR20DET, 5 spd supra box and beefed up diff into a crap car like an old corolla for about $10,000. Good for about 220HP at the rear wheels and low second 14 second 1/4 mile passes, seriously limited by traction issues though.
Its so good to see that you guys can still argue a point till it goes round the block, your face goes blue, and still not solve anything, even in my absence. The narrowed beam rolls on, the 1916 rolls on. We really need to sit beer in hand around a BBQ at nambucca for dinner. Lunch time was too sedate.
Im fairly stoked with my hp figure, whatever it must be. 14.6ET in a kombi on uphill eastern creek. 220 at the wheels? awesome.
The stock KLZE makes 22.8kg/m of torque at 5500rpm. This converts to 165ft.lbs.
I have however got dyno charts for the ford probe, with the V6 in it.
The blue curve (stock probe) has an Oz/US issue KL-03 engine, which makes 123kW or 164.9HP (factory quote). Assuming 83% gearbox efficiency for a modern gearbox, it should achieve 0.83x165=about 137HP. You can see the blue curve is getting around 135HP so pretty damn close.
The red curve is a hotted up version of the KL-03.
The green curve is a jap issue KLZE which is supposed to make about 200HP and 165ft.lb of torque. The car with the KLZE was still running the a-spec computer which has the wrong VRIS points and fuel / ign curves for the KLZE, so the torque curve is not as strong as it should be, and starts tapering off. Still, assuming 0.83% efficiency it should make 166HP and 137ft.lbs of torque. You can see it is actually making 171HP and 165ft.lbs at the wheels. So it is performing better than the factory quote, probably due to the different exhaust and intake, but despite the wrong ECU.
Cool! I've seen a commodore V6 make 130 at the wheels in a VW. So it sounds about right. DOHC makes a big difference, but then 3.8 vs 2.4 (is it?) you're probably breaking even.
You should take it to a dyno day. You'd probably find Mazda clubs are doing them and would love to see the effect in a beetle.
The green curve is a jap issue KLZE which is supposed to make about 200HP and 165ft.lb of torque. The car with the KLZE was still running the a-spec computer which has the wrong VRIS points and fuel / ign curves for the KLZE, so the torque curve is not as strong as it should be, and starts tapering off. Still, assuming 0.83% efficiency it should make 166HP and 137ft.lbs of torque. You can see it is actually making 171HP and 165ft.lbs at the wheels. So it is performing better than the factory quote, probably due to the different exhaust and intake, but despite the wrong ECU.
geeez. and what's all this malarkey about 1915cc?:alien
just fitted the 50 buck dusty old tacho yesterday... fun to watch it go up now 😀 looks like it's time to sort out my ignition kit. also discovered i've been running my tires at 20psi. oops. no wonder i was squealing around ralleigh so much. my bad.
really? i found it made a nice difference to the handling and the ability to get moving at the lights when i upped it to 35... also gets rid of some of the saggy feeling when you go round a roundabout. just noticed the way the tires were all baggy after driving for a while and thought to myself... "now that can't be right...." running at 20 is slightly more comfy on sydney 'roads', but 35 feels more responsive. took another punter for a ride the other day and the reaction was (white faced, clinging to the grab rail over the glovebox and the loopy thing next to the door)"Seven thousand RPM... feeling a little nervous here Pete..." although in his defence at the time we were moving at an obscene rate. there was also an unsettling rhythmic clanging noise coming from somewhere... which turned out to be the engine lid rattling itself free and banging in the wind 😀
and no-one's had a heart attack next to me yet 😀 still waiting for the next victim...maybe it's YOU!! BWAhaHAHaAhAhhAhahAhAhaha!!!!😎
The manual may state those pressures,but times and tyres have changed. I've run 18psi in the front and 32 in the rear on all my beetles and type three's. The Kombi I run 40psi front and 42 in the rear. The Manx(depending on tyre combo) has been 15/25 in the front and 10/45 in the rear.Obviously it changes like the surfaces and driving conditions change......:bounce I don't run tubes in any of my tyres.
Not one the rear of the Manx...If you hoot around corners the rears need to be hard. Have pulled tyres from the rims before. Especially with the larger tyres as the sidewalls are high and popping them off the rim is not fun. Tyre manufacturers have minimum pressures for there tyres (just ask them). The front of a vw does not normally get high loads due to the weight on the tyres being so low and the ride can get harsh if the pressures are high. Run at lower pressures to compensate. Tubed tyres can be run at lower pressures as the tube acts like a stiffener and also helps keep the tyre on the rim. Offroaders use tubes for this reason (and for ease of repair):tree
