you will be happy with the work DIrect do 🙂 I'm sure this will solve your problems. Oh on a tangent can I borrow your Gtech some time?
555bug wrote:can I borrow your Gtech some time?
yep. What are you timing?
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
My Honda at this stage, I built the engine around 4000km ago and I am interested to know what its making as I have left out the cams for the break in period. It runs very well but I think its a long way of what it used to run (then again i set my P to B at 2 thou as compared to my last reading of 10 thou so I guess there i s alot more friction ) However last time it was on a dyno it make 96kw at the wheels and ran a sub 7 0-100. It certainly does not feel that quick now though so I was just going to tune it with the Gtech 🙂
Thanks Wes. :thumb
Last time I bought a 2L clutch it was a generic brand that I got at trade price from my brother who worked at Burson's, and it still cost me $100. Other quotes I got started at $120.... :o
Next time I'll know where to look :thumb
Kruizin Kol
Wes
Is the RaceClutch joint you are dealing with Aust. Comp. Clutch Supplies (Jim Berry)
If so you are speaking to the very best of hybrid and modified clutch guys in Australia.
I can understand how you can spend many hours with him and my phone bill from Tassie is always a killer after a "session" with him!
I have had a few clutches built by Jim over the years and you are correct to be suspicious of using a bonded and rivetted plate.
I have one of these, made by Jim, in my old Elfin F-Vee for no other reason that to have absolute minimum pedal movement for full disengagement.
It is a complete bastard of a clutch for everyday use, given it is a stock 180mm 6v spring type pressure plate, and is an absolute light switch to operate and fairly chattery on takeup.
However it is also a solid centred plate as well. rather looks like an old circular saw blade hehehehehe!
My old turbo Capri used a bonded and rivetted, sprung centred plate and altho it was not anywhere near as chattery as the kraut F-Vee item, its action was still very, very fierce and required a bit of concentration to get off the line without stalling.
It was always a laugh to put mates in the car and pay out on them as they stalled it time and time again!
Fitchel & Sachs have made quality clutch components for many years.
Good luck with it.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
tassupervee wrote:Wes
Is the RaceClutch joint you are dealing with Aust. Comp. Clutch Supplies (Jim Berry)
yep, that's him. He certainly has some stories to tell, and he is the man!
I'm feeling pretty confident that the sachs clutch will stand up to it. It's not like I'm making huge HP or doing drag launches or anything.
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
just an update. I braved the hot humid weather and stuck it out in the shed long enough to put my Baja back together on xmas eve.
Let me say, the sachs clutch is smooth.
When I had the old clutch in, I would get the occasional clutch shudder when using the clutch lightly, like reversing out of peoples driveways and stuff. I tried putting more bend in the bowden tube and doing the bellhousing strap up really tight, put it was always there.
With the new clutch, it's gone! No shudders, smoother take-up, more forgiving to drive. It's very nice. I'm very happy. :thumb
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
So that warp in the pressure plate is gone ?? or better plate design??
Futue te ipsum!!!
Wes hit on it in an earlier post with the fitting of different weight springs.
They seem to help dampen the ocillations or "harmonics" if you like where the plate come under load, winds up and then unwinds against the springs causing the shudder.
Same as disconnecting your shocks and going for a drive where the suspension will boing up and down at the, for want of a better term "resonant frequency" of the springs !!!
I had a clutch p[late made years ago for my old capri where 3 of the springs were substituted with rubber blocks.
pretty agricultural but is worked OK.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
The pressure plate wasn't warped, it was worn in a concave shape. Althought it would cause uneven wear I wouldn't have thought it would be the cause of the shudder.
I think the different spring sizes in the sachs clutch helps (as opposed to 6 equal springs in the other one). I also think the clutch plate itself is much more flexible.
Taz, a lot of the jap clutch plates, including the original MX6 plate had 6 elastomer rubbers instead of springs. Jim said the jap rubbers work really well. He said some american company copies the idea but their rubbers break. bit of trivia :thumb
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
Eyewww
My clutch was made in Sydney by gawd only knows as it was a hybrid between my Fitchel & Sachs BMW M3 pressure plate and the 1600 pushrod Ford engine machine to suit a Ford 2 litre clutch.
Bit of a mixmaster.
The three springs survived ok but the rubber blocks eventually stuffed up and ended up coming out of their hidey holes and flapping about between the plate and the diaphragm fingers.
Made some very odd noises whilst clutch in and in gear heheheheh!
Of course Jim made me another plate!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Wes,
Just an interesting point, I picked up a Sachs 'kit' recently (clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing + grease) and all springs were the same size!
The old Sachs plate was like yours!!!!
(2L type 4 motor/GB)
Not realy related but the original clutch in my 1600TP beetle had springs in the plate, but the replacement was solid. I have not liked it since it has been in (I have a replacement for the next time the motor is out). It's harder to do a smooth take off and is jerkier when going from on throttle to off throttle.
Andy
Andy
That seems to be the way things go with off the shelf Kraut clutches.
I needed to replace the clutch plate in my old F-vee (36 Hp. 180mm) and I was unable to source, off the shelf, a sprung centered driven plate.
All they seem to supply is solid centered plates and i agree with you that the clutch action is certainly more abrupt and harsh and prone to shuddering when using the clutch lightly such as reversing out of parking spots and that type of thing.
Oh well.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Hey Taz, Mick Motors has South African ones (I only got the friction plate, the rest is Sachs) on the shelf with springs for the 1600TP. I haven't installed one yet so can't say how good/bad they are.
Cheers,
Andy
Cewl
let me know how they perform dude.
Trouble is I am selling that old Vee so someone else has to deal with it now LOL
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....