chassis showing surge tank
simarlar to wes`s but gravity feed with a 1/2 inch
line and 1/2 inch breather return
in the surge tank is a bosh efi pump
10mm lines front to back and return
lift kit home made 40mm
tunnel cleared for big tie rods and adjusters in the front beam
golf master cylinder
rear disc/falcon
front disc/masda(sherman)with custom
hubs to suit large front stubs(also changed to 6 stud )
reversed intake and top radiator hose manifold
you have to cut the end off the water manifold to
reverse it as it hits the block where the
starter motor used to live
when you reverse the intake you have to move the alt.
i just used the standard bracket and hang the alt. of the
other side (reversed it as well)
than made a simple adjusting bracket
to help in ground clearing i made these
i needed to move the turbo anyway
there are more photos in the custom exhuast section of this
forom(is that the right word) of the manifold
cost about $70 in pipe and bends
this looks great , can you please show us the rear shocky towers how you did that .
and what is the fan set up looks like a holden radiator ? in there
are you going to fit a skid plate at the front ?
seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Very inspiring indeed! have to pull my finger out too, just waiting for my new rear end to get here (from beenliegh) and things should speed up again. Again hotdog, you do nice work man!!!
wibble wrote:Very inspiring indeed! have to pull my finger out too, just waiting for my new rear end to get here (from beenliegh) and things should speed up again. Again hotdog, you do nice work man!!!
Hmmm do not know what you meen coming from beenleigh:P:P:P we thought we would use it all in the thrash buggy that is being built:thumb:thumb
Oh and that is still not enough pics yet of the manx😀:thumb😀
Original radiator with original twin ECU controlled fans on the back sucking air through the radiator blowing air over gbox.
No front skid plate.
Stock fuel tank with extra fittings welded in - 1/2 inch outlet; 1/2 inch breather; 10mm return.
Cut the oil pan and welded a tank on the back of it (towards the front of motor, back of buggy) so it has the same capacity.
The lift kit is just a bit of 40mm box with bent up 1.6mm over the tunnel. To bend it around the corners I just sliced through 3 sides with the cut off saw (every inch for about 12 inches) - bent it to shape and welded it up. I also welded in threads to bolt the body to.
This is the second 40mm box as I originally just boxed in the sides but then decided on the lift kit. The two 40mm boxes are welded on top of each other.
Ran the 1/2 cut at home before I pulled the motor. Sounded great with the same length exhaust that I have, but I have now gone from 2 1/4inch to 2 1/2inch.
mmm thanks for the pics.. Looks cool and means I had better get back to teh shed so I can keep up with you ...
I have some concerns about your radiator though and think you will have issues with it staying cool. What happens when you have a roof on ?
I also think you are going to have cavitation issues with your fans blowing into the upforce of air from the road / pan. You will notice that you are 100% opposite to the way we went with Wes's radiator. It runs cool and doesn't use the thermos that much which supports the idea that there is a lot of air pushing up from the road. Just a thought..
Also keen to see your sump and we are about to cut up some EJ ones in pursuit if 75mm to get it back to where we want it.
So when do you think it will be on the road and what transmission are you using ?
Maybe we will have to come for a drive and steel some ideas :> 😎😎
Good stuff!!! Looks the goods and should go like a shower of &hit!!! Where did you run the fuel and brake lines? Are they in the tunnel? Better start mine soon I suppose!!!!:jesus
As Brad said, the radiator ain't gunna work with a roof on. I guess you aren't planning on running one.
Behind the front seats will be a low pressure at most speeds, and will work against the thermos. It may run a little hot on the highway. I guess only time will tell.
If it does run hot, I would try cutting holes through the side of the body, and adding air scoops in front of the rear wheels. These could feed air to the radiator and might work well.
The other disadvantage is that blowing hot air over the box will make the gearbox and CV's run hotter. Whether it causes any problems or not is another matter.
Looks like your near the testing stage anyway, good luck with everything :thumb
Brad - cavitation only occurs in liquids, but that's another story.
brad
looked at lots of radiators (mainly racecar set ups in books)
have also played around with rear mounted radiators in
speedway cars
wes is an engineer i am a tradesman we will always have differant ideas(ask any tradesman)
you won`t have any touble with the oil pan
i`m using a 6 rib with an early kombi bellhousing
and a 200mm clutch(so it suiys my adaptor witch bill croft made and i`m very happy with)
please come for a drive and visit
we have some good 4wd/buggy places to go
criag
longer wider strengthenedarms to suit type 2 axles
(from custom offroad - i like them to!)
