Next year i want to do some drags again and my tidy 67 is slowly going towards the old Skool Cal i want. The rest of the car is planned for i.e interior etc etc but i want a new motor to replace the 6v 1300.
I would prefer to keep my original motor and simply build another up . I can do basic stuff but i'm no engine builder so i need soem adivise on engine's and engine builders in Sydney!
In keeping with the old skool / bracket racer idea the motor i'm after is a well built strong 1776 that will be running on 48ida's. Fuel economy is no concern , it is not used alot in traffic and only for cruises and shows etc.
I'd rather pay the money and do it well as i want the motor to last a while whilst getting some abuse every now and then. This is where the questions start.
What case to use? What mods to case for oil coolers / strenth etc?What crank? What heads and what size?,What
Cam?Etc Etc Etc
Finally what box mods would be best to do to match the engine?
I haven't got money to throw away and realise that the skies the limit when it comes to racing. Just want to have some fun with out too much breaking ! I'm after a car that's abit of a sleeper , happily run out on cruises and will charge hard on the strip.
Where do i start?
Dan
🙂
"If i had to explain you wouldnt understand"
The Lower Class
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
The reason i say this is there is WAY to many opinions out there and if you keep asking questions you will keep getting different answers.
You will get
type 4 it
turbo it
1916 it
stroke it
"What case to use? What mods to case for oil coolers / strenth etc?What crank? What heads and what size?,What
Cam?Etc Etc Etc "
At best you will get the answer " depends - its all in the combo "
Originally i thought that answer was a crook of shit. But after sereral years of hang with dudes and building a motor (several times) i know know what they mean.
Personally i would suggest
1) Just building one. It WONT be the final one so just build one. That way you will know what to change NEXt time and what should happen when you do , and then build it again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and ......
2) Hand $5 to 10 grand to some one and get them to do it.
better still - buy that stroker Dave Becker was selling a few months ago for $6k. No way will you do better than that and it is bolt in ready to go.
TTFN
Futue te ipsum!!!
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
just ring stan pobjoy job done ____BUT____ a word of warning .. make absolutly certain you have a very comfortable chair and a loudspeaker phone that way you can sit back and enjoy the conversation***************
just ring stan pobjoy job done ____BUT____ a word of warning .. make absolutly certain you have a very comfortable chair and a loudspeaker phone that way you can sit back and enjoy the conversation***************
just ring stan pobjoy job done ____BUT____ a word of warning .. make absolutly certain you have a very comfortable chair and a loudspeaker phone that way you can sit back and enjoy the conversation***************
Mmmmmm looks like i'll be making some calls then and get an idea on costs for a nice strong turn key motor. Oh well , i can see where my tax return going!!!!!!!!!
toplessbug wrote:just ring stan pobjoy job done ____BUT____ a word of warning .. make absolutly certain you have a very comfortable chair and a loudspeaker phone that way you can sit back and enjoy the conversation***************
lol i rang stain once about vw's 2 and a bit hours and $27
on my phone bill later and i got off 😀
say you have to go and get him to ring you back lol
Okay this is current thinking on a new motor. I have been listening to alot of people and reading up etc and came to this conclusion.
Bearing in mind i'm buying all new parts , i want it to last , run well etc it's money i only want to spend once. Now the cost of buying a new decent case is not alot more if it's an alloy one , bored and clearanced.
A new stoker crank is not alot more than a standard c/w crank
Big valve heads aren't that much more.
So am i not better just saving abit longer and getting something that will have a few more cc's? Thinking about a 2110 , 044 heads etc
I want to start collecting bits soon and get things rolling
yep IMO you would be much better of with the stroker, 78 is a good size, 90.5 bore if you want good result forget the 1916/ 94's, 82 is I think too long........
PS I rang Peter Richards and his price was double what my 1.6 new engine ended up costing ????? is he 4 real ?
Look i know this going to be expensive . I only want to do this once and buy the best i can without going stupid. I thinking a nicely built stroker would be alot of fun. Thinking that the 1776 i originally wanted may be abit short of what i'm aiming at. I have to plan this and also start collecting parts. Got an idea of what i'd like
CB performance make good parts - I couldnt afford a berg crank - so I bought a CB one, and CB race rods. I did use berg barrells and pistons, only because I got them cheap locally.
Mag cases are well proven - guys make 450 HP out of them and they live.
What ever you do dont skimp on heads, they are where its at as far as HP goes. Driveability is about heads and the overall combo. Get the heads ported for your application - an off the shelf CNC job seems like a good idea (cheap), but you may end up dissapointed.
Heres an example - you may have seen the discussions around the new CNC wedgeport ?? 200 HP out of the box - flow numbers are only part of the picture - port speed is very important - a small port with high flow Nos is what you want. The wedgeport head has 81ccs in it - a hand ported head with the same flow nos came to 76ccs - and it beats it in the mid range lift Nos which are more important.
Regarding stroker cranks, use forged such as Scat, DMS, Bugpack, there are many others.
If you can't build it yourself make sure you get it professionally done. That'll ensure you get it done once and once only. There have been some very unhappy 'customers' over the years that paid top $ and never got what they paid for. Make sure you don't become another victim!
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
Dan, I went to the States In Nov/Dec 2003 before I brought my motor. When I was there I spoke to many racers (off road) in regards to VW engines as there still one of the most popular motor used. Two engine builders people referred to as the best were Adam Wik and FAT performance. The engine size we spoke about most was 2180 (82c & 92b). Although the motors are reliable only one had an engine that put out over 100hp. When you look at engines for racing, horsepower goes hand in hand with reliability. So have a look at what goes on in racing here in Australia, (as in hill climb and so on) and what horsepower we have before you buy your motor from the States. A Pobjoy 1916 is not so expensive when you look at one of these engines, plus what support will you get from someone in the U.S. if things go bad.
