That makes sense. The full mark stays the same but the distance between the full mark and the low mark is less than the stock dipstick due to the outward expansion of the sump. So the low mark needs to be re-marked higher than stock. 😎
Now I follow. Thanks for clearing that up 🙂
yes BUT ... the bottom stock mark doesn't move either as the dip stick doesn't record the oil level until it is well up near the 3.6L mark. The factory sump would have like 2.5L of oil in it and nothing on the dip stick.
ONLY the stock oil level will vary slightly and this isn't actually market from factory it is just something I thought should / will be done..
Now I am just confussing myself .....
😎
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaI think I get what you are saying. As long as we are confusing everybody else then I'm happy. If I get enthused I will draw a quick diagram in photoshop to visualize the explanation. Or I might not. I know what you mean, and you know what you mean, so I guess that covers the important people 🙂
I will have to drop over some time and check it out in the flesh and have a catch up chat about other projects.
:alien
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaThe sump looks quite err... rugged.
Can you post a pic of it on the motor. Any idea on prices yet?
rugged..... interesting word for somthing that gets hit before anything else on the vehicle.
I should have a pic today some time. The shape is very much dictated by gaining maximum ground clearance and retaining maximum oil capacity while allowing the retention of factory engine mounts, exhaust Flanges, dip stick, oil filter and internal baffling and windage tray.
After fitting it to the engine a few hours ago I can positively say you can not fit these sumps while the EJ is still in the car. Also you need to remove adapter plate and engine mounts as well as putting studs in the case to replace the 6mm bolts that come from factory. Once this was done it took about 5 mins to fit up.
Looks prett cool :party
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaHmm, OK, so a bit of work involved in fitting your shortened sump.
After you have fitted it does that still mean you need to drop the motor out if you need to take the sump off?
Ok, it is fitted up and it sits 25mm lower than the rear transmission crossmember. With a type 2 transmission kit from COR this will mean the EJ will sit pretty much flat.
Jenny, yes you need to take your engine out if you want to remove the sump. Why would you want to remove a sump in the car though ? Not like you can do anything in there. It is physically IMPOSSIBLE to make a shortened sump that you can pull on and off in the car without being stupid and putting sleeves in for every bolt.
In the last 10 years of vehicle destruction I have never pulled a sump off in the car. It is the same as you can't split a VW case in the car.
Anyway I would recommend the sump is fitted to the vehicle as part of the conversion before you put the EJ in the car. You will need it in to build the crossmember anyway.
Now back to the rear engine crossmember and support system. ..... Bolt on ........
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaI give it a big thumbs up.
Painted black it will look ok under there, better than having the low original.
There are a lot of cars you can't take the sump off without taking the motor out, so that is not unusual.
the finished sumps will be powder coated black, so yeah you will hardly even notice they are there.
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaLooks Good. :bounce
I'm excited about getting my SubaManx on the road. Can't wait!
yep it is all looking very sweet. Shoudl have throttle body invertor sorted by next week and then the Subi really is a Bolt in Conversion. No cutting, no hacking and everything is bolt in ... hard to look past 140 HP for under $5000 and good for 500 000 km, easy service, easy parts , quite, reliable......................
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx Australialooks good I will be bringing my 2 sumps up for ya soon
.
hehe... well make sure you know if they are on or offroad. I reckon the offroad ones would be much better out of 2.1 Checker for that tough ass offroad look 🙂
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaBTW, I love the shape of them, it'd suit me down to the ground, he he he.
Wish you had been making them 3 years ago.🙁
Buggy Brad wrote:hehe... well make sure you know if they are on or offroad. I reckon the offroad ones would be much better out of 2.1 Checker for that tough ass offroad look 🙂
Bugger the on road version i want them so i can use them as a bash pan as well.:thumb
.
Even onroad the checkerplate look would be tough as.
How's the bolt on engine crossmember going?
soundin good brad know where did i plant that lastm money tree???
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
I'd love to make up something like this sump for my SVX engine....You sould the size of this one!!!!
My bus looks like it has one massive black testicle!
Not a good look!
Hi Brad
Do you have a price for a sump, onroad version?
Steve
[Edited on 20-9-2004 by 1302Steve]
Gidday Brad,
any chance of an update on all of what you have avaliable, and how much it all costs.
Please!
Thanks,
Andy.
I think you will find brad is pretty busy with the new business and all 🙂 you may get faster answerers if you call Custom Off Road 3356 4356 (i think) Terry or Brad will know :blah
Sumps are $440 exchange. Sold as a kit includes everything you need to bolt onto the EJ series engines.
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaDo you have pics / pricing on the engine crossmembers yet?
Bump for Matt
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
