if they havent got them try an engineering supplies like blackwoods🙂
meetings 1st sunday of the month
check wbsite for location
All Welcome
http://www.flatfour.org/
and on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/FlatFourWill have to search for one up here. Evidently Bunnings supply Sutton cobalts. I'll give 'em a ring tomorrow. Thanks for your help again!
Found a blackwoods just down the road from the Bunnings! Good tips always appreciated. Muchos Gracias!
Start with a small drill then work up to the big one. It dosen't matter how good the drill is if you start big🙂
Thanks Moose. As ignorant as I am, I still knew that one. Thanks anyway.
Off to get my cobalts soon!
Hi Guys - got the cobalts! And the success rate - 0!
I've been drilling for hours without much luck - (3mm).
A mobile mechanic told me that he only uses - get this: Masonry bits on hardened steel. I gave that a crack in my frustration, and it worked better than the cobalts. Stupidly, the drill has to go back NOW and I'm still not far enough in.
What do you guys do with that pent up frustration when crap like this happens???
go and blow something up ok maybe not but it works at my work
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
BTW the Woodruf was stuffed as you said 11cab - good call. I didn't know of the terms for this part, and was looking for something completely different. Thanks to Sand Kombi (Michael) for setting me straight!
got my old man here looking at the pics and he reckons that krossthreads in newcastle have disintergrator drill bits which will drill broken taps, easyouts etc. they are pricey but they work. he also thinks that you may have to replace the crank due to wear cause by the loose fan.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Aaaaaaargh! Actually, the crank looks O.K. but the Woodruff looks nasty. I'd need a professional opinion of course!
I finally got through the EZY out piece with about 3 hours drilling, swapping cobalt with masonry and back again. Then life got a whole lot easier. The problem was, I couldn't see enough what I was doing. Eventually, I got out the digicam, took a snap with the flash on, and blew it up on the computer. You could see the differences between the bolt metal, and the EZY out. That 3mm almost killed me. So, the new EZy out is in, but it is turning the crank. I'm gonna go and put it in gear and see what happens soon.
Do you reckon I should start the engine up for a while to make the crank warm before trying again?
should of bought my motor, would of been a quicker job, i removed and replaced a motor yesterday in 2 1/2 hours on my own, was not east from the ground up,
as for yours tintin i would not warm it up do it cold, in gear with handbreak on, good look and mind those knuckles eh
my the gods be with you dude lol
Andy
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out
www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only..
Thanks Andy! I'm starting to pray - a strange thing for a Zen buddhist to do!
id say no to warming the engine due to the possibility of oil spewing out the hole and there is no cooling for the cylinders
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Where would I be without you guys? Thanks for the tips. Maybe I'll know what I'm doing one day (though at this rate - that's a long way off).
you would of had to find a vw mechanic a lomg time ago
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
I'm officially stuffed! I would've taken this problem to a mechanic if I'd been mobile, and not overheated the engine getting there. It seemed like such a simple problem to fix, and I've mutilated it. The EZY out went in fine, but then a bit of the bolt broke out. The hole is no longer centred, and the EZY out can now only contact part of the bolt, and part of the crank thread i.e. it aint goin' nowhere, and the thread will be ruined!
Feel free to laugh guys. Hopefully someone else will learn something from this? I sure have. A mobile mechanic I talked to yesterday said he would've done the job for around $100. Mobile mechanic - what a novel idea! I've really gotta get over myself!
my old mans advice is to with a small rotary burr ie a dremel bit grind the bolt away opposite where the thread is showing until you come to the top of the thread you should be able to prise the bolt section away from the thread in the shaft. this will take a fair bit of patience as you dont want to damage the crank thread. when you have it out you then run a 8mm tap into the thread to clean it.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Thanks Mate. I don't know if I'm that game or stupid anymore?
Don't you just reach that point when you've already sunk such energy into the thing that you cant give up - even if you make the situation worse?
God I hate myself sometimes!
Barls suggestion is a very good one.
This is probably the last resort for what you can do by your self. Failing that, the next step is getting the remains of the bolt "disintegrated".
Its a process that uses a power supply not unlike a welder but uses a hollow needle and water as a coolant and the needle is progressively fed into the remains of the bolt and the power supply does its work and the bolt is disintegrated along with the needle.
There is no heat damage to surrounding areas. I have seen this process in action and there is virtually no damage to surrounding threads.
it usually only takes a couplke of minutes.
The thread can then be cleaned up with a plug tap and hopefully off you go.
I cannot remember the businesses name but the "hook" line was:
"What the heli-coil's a disintegrator?"
These guys do it mobile.
best of luck.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Hi
In most cases like this where the bolt has just broken I've found that you can get the broken bit out by tapping it around and unscrewing it with a centre punch. wombat I feel you pain, what a nasty mess.
Steve
Correct, but, thing is with this one he has busted an eziout already.
I wonder if the retaining bolt is thread bound in the crank?
This could explain why the eziout broke. Given he has alreadt tightened it a couple of times recently there is no reason the broken bolt would be difficult to remove due to the likes of rust.
Im with you tho, I feel his pain..................
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Hi Tass
I understood about the broken easyout, the centre punch method is my 1st method. I've had better success with the square shank easyouts than the twist ones. Maybe with the wear or a non standard bolt its bottomed out.
Steve
Ok been stuck like this before .
I made a * case hard * drill guide this fits over the crank like a hub , it has a hole were you fit the drill bit into ( center ) and its long to guide the drill all the way .
I all ways use masonary drills , they can be sharpen to suit the angle required , you would need to feed the drill bit in from the crank end of the guide as the head ( tip ) of the drill is bigger then the shank .
get some triflex green cuting past .
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Thanks guys - this is really helpful. This topic should be a FAQ I reckon!
I got the EZY out chunk out of the Bolt with 3 hours of drilling, swapping Masonry for cobalt and back again. The only problem is that I now have a non centred hole. A mechanic is coming out on Wednesday to have a crack - 'cause I've got the FEAR now!
I thought that this would be so easy, but NO! DOH!
