This is the original pic of the Beetle as it looked 30/12/03
🙁
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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Respray of Beetle - step by step with pics part II
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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This is it now just finished today.
😀
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
😀
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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This is the rest of the process I went throgh to get it to where it is now.
This is showing the sander with a soft back up pad with 600 dry grit dry paper after sanding with 320 dry and putting charcoal dust on.
Dry sanding is preferable these days as it it is much cleaner. The paper is a little dearer though.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is showing the sander with a soft back up pad with 600 dry grit dry paper after sanding with 320 dry and putting charcoal dust on.
Dry sanding is preferable these days as it it is much cleaner. The paper is a little dearer though.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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Softop Seriously Crusin Dubber
167 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
Verrry nice Peter!!
Roger
Roger
If you drive fast enough you're past the accident before it happens !
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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This shows the masking of the inside of the panels which were painted black. This is the bonnet now ready to be painted outside.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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All of the outside panels in the oven ready to be painted.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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The outside panels painted.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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The white had already been painted before and was masked up when the top of the doors was painted.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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The main car in the oven ready to be painted. Masked up with plastic and paper.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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Sprayed tar under the guards before they were put back on. This will help prevent rust.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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The luggage and engine bays in satin black.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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Ready to put the guards on after measuring and cutting out the notches in the fender beading.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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A few shots while moving the car around and assembling.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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When I put the new door trims on which I procured from Volkspower.
I masked up just in from the edge of where the trim would go, and applied some spray adhesive.
This was so I could put some plastic on, which stops any moisture from getting into your vehicle and ruining the trims.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
I masked up just in from the edge of where the trim would go, and applied some spray adhesive.
This was so I could put some plastic on, which stops any moisture from getting into your vehicle and ruining the trims.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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With the plastic glued on and trimmed and the tape removed. Ready for the new door trims.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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Putting the windscreen in.
This is the same for all of the windows, but the windscreen is the hardest. It is a little nerve racking, as they can break easily. Although I have never broken one I still get nervous about it.
This is showing the method of putting a string in the groove on the outside edge of the rubber. This is looking from the inside of the glass.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is the same for all of the windows, but the windscreen is the hardest. It is a little nerve racking, as they can break easily. Although I have never broken one I still get nervous about it.
This is showing the method of putting a string in the groove on the outside edge of the rubber. This is looking from the inside of the glass.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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This shows the screen with the string in the groove all the way around.
I always do a loop at one side as well as the ends on the other, so I can start from two spots. This is very important to keep the screen centralised in some way.
On bigger screens I do a loop on all four sides.
I use masking tape to hold the bits of string inside.
The string is about 4mm diameter and ideally sash cord or lawn mower starter cord is preferred. The string I have used here is only just ok.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
I always do a loop at one side as well as the ends on the other, so I can start from two spots. This is very important to keep the screen centralised in some way.
On bigger screens I do a loop on all four sides.
I use masking tape to hold the bits of string inside.
The string is about 4mm diameter and ideally sash cord or lawn mower starter cord is preferred. The string I have used here is only just ok.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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Then apply some mastic sealant to the outer edge of the rubber where the lines are. Do this after putting the string in, so you dont make a mess.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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This shows when I am starting to pull the rubber at the bottom of the screen. Once it starts wrappin around, I do a bit at the top as well to centralise the screen.
When you first drop the screen in the car, you may need a friend to help, so you dont drop it.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
When you first drop the screen in the car, you may need a friend to help, so you dont drop it.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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This closeup shows how pulling the string brings the rubber lip from the outside to the inside. This picture is taken from about the drivers seat.
It is important to pull the string towards the other side of the glass, and not just back towards you.
Here the string is being pulled up directly toward the rear view mirror, not back towards me in the drivers seat. If you do it properly you have less risk of tearing the rubber.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
It is important to pull the string towards the other side of the glass, and not just back towards you.
Here the string is being pulled up directly toward the rear view mirror, not back towards me in the drivers seat. If you do it properly you have less risk of tearing the rubber.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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A light slap and gentle push on the glass from the outside to make sure it is seated properly.
That line is a reflection, not a crack.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
That line is a reflection, not a crack.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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A bit of tar on the floors to protect them, as thay had a little bit of surface rust on them.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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The Beetle is all finished except for a little bit of trim work below the back window's and new carpets. I will then be able to put the rear windows in.
I has taken about 20 days - in my own time after hours and Saturdays while working during the week. I did not get any holidays, nor did I work on any Sundays.
Cost $400 for paint
$400 for assorted rubbers and 4 inner/ door trims so far.
The carpet and other trim bits will cost about $400 also.
So for a total of $1200 this has been a budget build up. There is a questions thread for those who are so inclined. Stay tuned and this concludes our broadcast for today. 'click'
I has taken about 20 days - in my own time after hours and Saturdays while working during the week. I did not get any holidays, nor did I work on any Sundays.
Cost $400 for paint
$400 for assorted rubbers and 4 inner/ door trims so far.
The carpet and other trim bits will cost about $400 also.
So for a total of $1200 this has been a budget build up. There is a questions thread for those who are so inclined. Stay tuned and this concludes our broadcast for today. 'click'
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
I found a few pics from when I did the rust on the 'A' pillar, so I will post them when I remember. :thumb
Stanley I guess the reward is in the doing of it
4,523 posts · joined Mar 2003 ·
Looks great Peter, 2 questions what "tar" did u use under the guards and on the floor and what are your thoughts on electric orbital sanders for removing old paint prior to respray.
Thanks
Thanks
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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Underneath I used Sikaflex 'underbody sound deadener'
It is very tarlike and needs a coat of chassis black on it to finish it off.
You cant paint anything else on it as it is really flexible. It is runnier when you put it on but then it dries it hardens, but not so hard it it can crack. Takes a day to dry and will still be a bit sticky on the surface even after that.
An orbital sander will be fine. It is all in the way you use it and how thick the paint is you want to remove.
I used 80 grit where I wanted to go to bare metal and 240 grit where I just needed to sand the original paint to remove scratches or chips. 😉
It is very tarlike and needs a coat of chassis black on it to finish it off.
You cant paint anything else on it as it is really flexible. It is runnier when you put it on but then it dries it hardens, but not so hard it it can crack. Takes a day to dry and will still be a bit sticky on the surface even after that.
An orbital sander will be fine. It is all in the way you use it and how thick the paint is you want to remove.
I used 80 grit where I wanted to go to bare metal and 240 grit where I just needed to sand the original paint to remove scratches or chips. 😉
CB Hotdog The artist formerly known as cbhotdogd
267 posts · joined Oct 2004 ·
Nice paint job - you make it look easy!! Me and my boyfriend are considering whether to go through all this (or not??). Do you hire a spray place or are you a professional? Where do you do all this and get all your gear?? I am in Melbourne (any suggestions).
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
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I was doing at a panel shop where I was a manager for a year and a half. The shop does strictly accident repairs. I have since left there and left the trade as there is no love or money in it anymore.
No suggestions sorry, unless you want to pay upwards from $5000. I personally do not know anyone who will do a good job for under that much these days.
No suggestions sorry, unless you want to pay upwards from $5000. I personally do not know anyone who will do a good job for under that much these days.
paulgrey Casual Dubber
43 posts · joined Mar 2004 ·
Hi,
I have been setting aside some cash to respray my beetle, I what to keep the same base colour but have been thinking about apply a few clear coats to give it a real shine and some protetion. What are your thoughts on clear coating... Yes/No, how many layers etc.
Also the Tar under the gaurds will that help prevent stone brusing on the gaurds?.
[Edited on 31-10-2004 by paulgrey]
I have been setting aside some cash to respray my beetle, I what to keep the same base colour but have been thinking about apply a few clear coats to give it a real shine and some protetion. What are your thoughts on clear coating... Yes/No, how many layers etc.
Also the Tar under the gaurds will that help prevent stone brusing on the gaurds?.
[Edited on 31-10-2004 by paulgrey]
Paul Grey
Type 4 2.0l
1970 Beetle.
Auckland, New Zealand.
Phat cars = Skinny chicks.
Type 4 2.0l
1970 Beetle.
Auckland, New Zealand.
Phat cars = Skinny chicks.
helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Clear is only really necessary on COB (clear over base) paints. This includes metallics an pearls. You can make solid colours in COB, but again it is not necessary. You cant really just clear over existing paint on a car, you will have to put some colour on it first. If it is the same colour, then not as much colour will be required.
Yes the tar is thick and should help prevent stone bruises. It is also a little bit soft, so should help bounce them rather than letting them put star cracks in the fenders.
Yes the tar is thick and should help prevent stone bruises. It is also a little bit soft, so should help bounce them rather than letting them put star cracks in the fenders.
paulgrey wrote:Hi,
I have been setting aside some cash to respray my beetle, I what to keep the same base colour but have been thinking about apply a few clear coats to give it a real shine and some protetion. What are your thoughts on clear coating... Yes/No, how many layers etc.
Also the Tar under the gaurds will that help prevent stone brusing on the gaurds?.
[Edited on 31-10-2004 by paulgrey]