The auto factor will be fine, mine came out of an auto as well, just cut off the wires going to the auto controller .Another thing i forgot to mention is you should hook up the fat red/yellow wire to your starter motor solenoid so the ecu knows your trying to start the engine. I never did this at first, the engine runs fine without doing it, however it took 5-10seconds of cranking for it to fire. All the relays and that still came on though withot it so don't think this is your problem.nn[ Edited on 30-6-2005 by ratbug ]
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Click here for wiring loomshey ratbug,
did you happen to find the correct model wiring diagram for your engine?
Col
Thanks Col , I know who has the motor in the paper .
I could not find a ej22 in perth two years ago , just no one had one complete.
I have a diagram for the ecu comming via fax , just hope its the correct one from over seas .
Ratbug I have a look at my set up .
cheers again guys 🙂 seagull
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hey ratbug,
did you happen to find the correct model wiring diagram for your engine?
Col
Yeah after looking at a load of diagrams I downloaded off the net and nothing matching up, i found the diagrams in the haynes liberty workshop manual were about 95% correct to what i had in front of me.
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Click here for wiring loomsI pulled the key start switch apart tonight , there is a very small reed switch in the barrel !!!! now what do you think this does ( ? )
I think when the barrel ( key starter ) is assembled the reed switch is in a closed state alowing the earth ground to be made .Removing the key starter ( barrel )
from the system (ie some prick busting the barrel apart and trying to nick your ride) in turn may of made some part of the ecu not trigger or latch .
Hope the diagrams that are on the fax at work are match my ecu and I can get this to work .
I be drinking to that :beer
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Seagull,i did mention about the igniton earlier.Replace the barrel.If fuel pumps are working,relays,and motor kicking over then stalling.Then you are on the right path!JVLRacing
Seagull I may have something that might help you... do you still require the wiring diagram, I have to check when I get home to night. I got a Workshop manual on CD from a mate, for all Impreza's i believe....
Gday Dero , the diagram that I have is not clear , I can see the imobilizer section but can not read it , what a bummer .If you have some thing would be great .can you load it here or via a link , may be some one can do it .
thanks for your help , seagull
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I am still lost to whay I can not get the motor run , did get the wiring diagram but not clear due to fax , bummer
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The workshop manual is 86M.... hmmm you probably want a copy actually. Ill send a U2U . Pick it up some time next week.
Its got pretty much everything youd wanna know a about a subaru Impreza 2002 covers engine 1.6, 2.0 non turbo, 2.0 turbo etc...nn[ Edited on 3/7/2005 by Dero ]
Hi Seagull,
I am not a computer guy and tried for days to get the diagram smaller and still keep big enough to read properly.
Did not get it done, here it is now in 3 pieces.
Second piece.
Third.
Cheers Dero I give you a call
Subaru boxer ,, thanks for the above > the ecu I have would apear to have a factory imobilizer fitted ( kills some thing in the ecu ) The key for the car has a butten ?? now I dont no if the was to start the car or doors >lock unlock .
The ign barrle has a fancy switch to kill some thing if the guts of the barrle was removed .
The legacy > japan spec is very hard to find on the net with regards to wiring diagrams , I have been looking for days .
A few questions that may help me
does the red / yel inhibtor switch as above need to have power ? I dont have this conected at all no relay .
did your front cut have a press butten type starter key ?
thanks again seagullnn[ Edited on 3-7-2005 by seagull ]
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Seagull,
I think the switch in the legacy ´s key has nothing to do with your problems. I´d say it is a remote locking system for the doors or a alarm system.
And the inhibitor switch is for Automatic Transmission A/T only. M/T is Manual Transmission. I think you don´t need it.
Give
http://techinfo.subaru.com a try. You have to pay but it is worth it!!
Jörgnn[ Edited on 3-7-2005 by subaruboxer ]
hey neil,
I think the red/yellow wire you refer to should be hooked up to the start circuit, not hot in acc as shown
i think the clutch/inhibitor switches in the diagram are to ensure the car does not start in neutral,
i think this is the same wire ratbug had not connected on his which prevented his from starting correctly - Ratbug?
Hi Col , thanks for that I check that out , I have been surching the web for a week now and can not find the same as what I have , dam shame I can not get her to start , will have to find some one to have a look what may be wrong .
cheers seagull
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3 long flashes and 9 short flashes would indicate error code 39, but there is no error code 39. I would do an ECU reset (green connectors) and try reading the codes again (black connectors).
If your wiring matches up with the diagram posted then you are missing a yellow wire from your ignition run/start circuit going to that fuel pump relay connecter, like Subaruboxer said, there should be 4 wires.
can you tell me what the motor is out of? Liberty or Impreza? I have a wiring diagram for around that era, but it's for a liberties (that includes outbacks).
Peter its from a legacy import from 94 to 96 , I purchased a front cut , it had a 4x4 gear box .
Thanks Peter
O I am on a work , had problems with my seagull log on .
sorry guys I could not log on today from work as seagull
back as seagull now .
Thanks for your post jenny , one of the problems I have is my ecu has three plugs ( see photos a few pages back )
I have connected a wire yellow to power ( run ), still no fuel pump comes on ?
I tryed the reset , , but get 39 again ? now I am very very lost
seagull 🙁
should any one out there have a wiring diagram for a 3 plug ecu around the date of 1994 please fax it to
08 94453240
cheers seagull nn[ Edited on 12-7-2005 by seagull ]
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I think the red/yellow wire you refer to should be hooked up to the start circuit, not hot in acc as shown
i think the clutch/inhibitor switches in the diagram are to ensure the car does not start in neutral,
i think this is the same wire ratbug had not connected on his which prevented his from starting correctly - Ratbug?
Sorry guys, havn't been able to access the forum for a while. Yeah by leaving the red/yel wire disconnected it made it a little hard to start when cold, and sometimes gave me an error (start signal error). And yes I hooked it up to the start circuit not the ACC as shown, but it could work in ACC but not sure.
My ECU has the three yellow plugs.
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Click here for wiring loomsJust thinking out loud here guys ( so I dont go nuts )
My fuel pump relay will not come on when key is turned on ?
does the ecu need power 24>7 ( all the time )
just got me stuffed why the fuel pump will not come on ( ! ) man I would like to cry
and your going to go nuts when you see what this motor is in
cheers seagull
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How are your fuel pumps powered. You have a relay which should have ignition power to one side, and earth trigger to switch the relay comes from the computer, turning on the pumps.
The power will be coming to the relay from the initial ignition relay, which you use to power accessories such as fans, stereos!
Check to see you arnt trying to let the computer give the power..it usually is the earth(for the trigger only) and even if it has a power trigger, all it is is the trigger as the main power comes from the ignition relay regardless.
This may be commonsense, it took me a while to work out that the computer doesnt have enough power to run an engine, so give everything battery power(via ignition relay) and then all the computer has to do is either earth it, or switch the power via another relay.
Does this make sense?
Seagull,
The EJ22 manual for '90-'94 models (downloaded from
http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 ) at section 2-7 as stacks of great information on the fuel injection system for these motors.
"... The ECU receives a signal emitted from the crank angle sensor and turns the fuel pump relay ON or OFF to control fuel pump operation. To improve safety, the fuel pump will stop if the engine stalls with the ignition switch ON.." the ECU does te switching by providing the eart to the fuel pump relay coil.
You have confirmed that the fuel pump works OK.
Take the fuel pump relay out of it's holder and count the number of pins it has. If it has 4 then there sould be 4 wires going to the relay connector. Your poto only showed 3... Go through the checks for the fuel pump circuit on pages 56 & 57 of section 2-7 to see where the problem is.
nn[ Edited on 15-7-2005 by Jenny ]
I am not sure about the Subie ECU - despite having wired one up this week - but most ECUs DO need 12V 100% of the time. This allows the unit to set IAC for start etc on previous shutdown AFTER the ign has been turned off... which is also why the Subie needs the fat yellow/red (?) wire to be connected to starter solenoid. It works like the choke in an old carby car!
Pay your debts, CxxT
yes have that yellow red wire , I am going to have a look at choppers notch to day , its a turbo but may be some thing I am missing .
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boof2332 wrote:How are your fuel pumps powered. You have a relay which should have ignition power to one side, and earth trigger to switch the relay comes from the computer, turning on the pumps.
The power will be coming to the relay from the initial ignition relay, which you use to power accessories such as fans, stereos!
Check to see you arnt trying to let the computer give the power..it usually is the earth(for the trigger only) and even if it has a power trigger, all it is is the trigger as the main power comes from the ignition relay regardless.
This may be commonsense, it took me a while to work out that the computer doesnt have enough power to run an engine, so give everything battery power(via ignition relay) and then all the computer has to do is either earth it, or switch the power via another relay.
Does this make sense?
:thumbYep mention the problem before ignition to relay is wher problem stands.Thanks Matt yours is better said!!!!JVLRacing
The relay that was missing a wire I ran one to it from power .
Now when the key is on ( power to this silver relay ) the fuel pump will not come on .
I have tested the pump it works fine .
I have power at the brown relay , just no turning on the fuel pump
does the check light power up at this point ?? I dont have that on
cheers seagull
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seagull wrote:The relay that was missing a wire I ran one to it from power .
Now when the key is on ( power to this silver relay ) the fuel pump will not come on .
I have tested the pump it works fine .
I have power at the brown relay , just no turning on the fuel pump
does the check light power up at this point ?? I dont have that on
cheers seagull
you have u2u coming JVLRacing
