Its not like you dont read the instructions layed out before you !
I had the day just making sure the wire from the ecu were just right , it would apear that just one wire from the ecu can not run a VDO unit , I have the dip switches correct , just dont work >>>>> mind you , I dont think I will have time to look at it on this ride Matt 🙂 Its going to trip some people right out !
comming very soon The MISTRESS
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Hey Neil, the easiest way to clear the codes as described in the book is to disconnect the battery for 30seconds. With the engine light problem, bit of a stab in the dark, but maybe the light is on when it should be off, and off when it should be on? in which case you could be reading say 49 (counting the space as well). Maybe the other side of the light is hooked up to ground, instead of 12v ignition?
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Mmm very interesting saga.
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Check your diagram Neil.
My memory is pretty scetchy on all this.
I seem to remeber the engine check light needs power positive from both sides. That is from the battery and from the ECU. So when it gets power from the ecu it goes out. But when there is a problem the power from the ECU side goes to earth and the light flashes on.
Does this sound right to any electrical ppl out there?
choppa wrote:Mmm very interesting saga.
Better than all my MIlls and Boons!
Check your diagram Neil.
My memory is pretty scetchy on all this.
I seem to remeber the engine check light needs power positive from both sides. That is from the battery and from the ECU. So when it gets power from the ecu it goes out. But when there is a problem the power from the ECU side goes to earth and the light flashes on.
Does this sound right to any electrical ppl out there?
Hi choppa,
no, does not sound right! The light goes off when the ecu switches earth off! The ecu wire is earth!
Jörg
nn[ Edited on 24-7-2005 by subaruboxer ]nn[ Edited on 24-7-2005 by subaruboxer ]
Choppa , I have started a book on this !
The motor sounds Sweeeeet , need to sort the 39 problem out
Another night ahead like this >:jesus
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Are yoiu driving this thing yet Seagull? do you have a Vehicle Speed Sensor? I get a light everytime I back off the throttle (say downhill in 2nd gear) and coast... In Holdens that means VSS is inactive and I assume it's the same for the Subie. I haven't interpreted the code yet... have had other more important problems to sort such as the turbo/intecooler pipe blowing off - pSSSShtttTT - and a dud water pump...
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You must be spying on me ? yes it has one > I have been looking all night for the VSS thingO in my shed , it might be at work ? I will need to look .
No not driving it yet , I have a few thing to put on before it goes for a run down the street , its taken two years to get to the stage I am at now .
I think you guys are going to be in shock when you see the Mistress for the first time , not long now I hope , just need to find what code 39 is ( may be no Vss signal ??
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Code 33 is meant to be VSS signal problem. Yeah?
seagull wrote:You must be spying on me ? yes it has one > I have been looking all night for the VSS thingO in my shed , it might be at work ? I will need to look .
No not driving it yet , I have a few thing to put on before it goes for a run down the street , its taken two years to get to the stage I am at now .
I think you guys are going to be in shock when you see the Mistress for the first time , not long now I hope , just need to find what code 39 is ( may be no Vss signal ??
It won't display a VSS fault code unless you are driving it and certain conditions are met: eg for Holdens it is engine above 1500rpm, throttle closed with high manifold vacuum (ie these 'conditions' are throttle over-run with the car slowing down), coolant beyond 60C etc. It's kinda like a self-check
Sorry, I don't know what a Subie VSS code is
Pay your debts, CxxT
seagull wrote:I am still not able to get the VDO RPM gauge to work , ideas ?
try this, is worked for me,
http://www.geocities.com/peterwood733/buggyproject/wiringdiagramtachosubaru2vw.jpgMy motors running funny , its runs up in rpm then drops in rpm , makes a purging sound, like sucking air from the air intake . I think the valve on the right hand side of the motor ( looking from the rear ) is doing this . ? is this some thing to do with the temp of the motor ,or electrical ??
cheers seagullnn[ Edited on 30-7-2005 by seagull ]
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Can you explain it again, I don't quite understand.
Have yo tried reading the engine codes again as Barls said in the other post it might actually be error codes 30 and 9 instead of 39?
HI Jenny , I found my wire to light ( may ) have been in the wrong pin out , the light is flashing now two times ?? I will check what you are saying .
my ecu pinouts at one end match the diagram at the other its the mirror image just dam crazy .I am going now to have a cry in the shed
seagull
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Seagull wanted me to post this for him
http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/1994 na EJ20 wiring diag 941-944.pdf
I've added it to the links and archive page too.
Wes -
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my problems to date as follows
No RPM on my VDO gauge , have been on it most of the day , tryed the diodes no good , tryed another wire with diodes no good , made sure diodes correct way around ( bar facing gauge ) as per diagram no good .not working ( cry ) made sure the dip switches we correct as per a 4cyl motor . may be its related to this .>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Motor idle up and down : motor runs up and down on idle > my wiring diagram is not correct on this one as far as I can make out , but have found the yellow and red wire from the coil is connected to the idle control valve , this is not factory as it has a hella conection the guy that did the wiring in the east did this .
ideas from here 🥲
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Motor idle up and down : motor runs up and down on idle > my wiring diagram is not correct on this one as far as I can make out , but have found the yellow and red wire from the coil is connected to the idle control valve , this is not factory as it has a hella conection the guy that did the wiring in the east did this .
ideas from here
Hi Neil,
checked the wiring diagram I send you, the Yellow/red from the coil is ignition power and the yellow/red from the idle control valve is a5 at the ecu. But you know the diagram could be wrong.
Jörg
The conector ( plug at rear of motor ) has one missing wire .I would say the guy that did the wiring cut has removed the wire ( ? ) then he conected the yellow and red from the coil ( power ) The ecu does the switching at this point , so why he did that I will never know unless ( h ) asks him why .
The A5 has a wire in it Jorg so I need to ask rat bug to see were the wire for the idle valve is on his ecu as it ( may) be the same .I hope .
seagull
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The stress is killing me ! I have now come to a stop
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I just had a bit of a look, i Dont have a yellow/red wire to the ecu, it looks as though the yellow/red wire comes off the main relay and then goes to a few little things like the idle valve (and according to the diagrams also the oxygen sensor etc). I'm not sure if having this yellow/red wire to the ignition coil source would make much of a difference as it'd be only powered when the ignition is on, like what it'd be doing if its hooked up to the coil power..
Just wondering if your oxygen sensor gets warm with the ignition on? as its power looks to be the same sourxce as the idle valve.
Just thought of another thing, you havnt altered or blocked the little coolant lines running to the idle valve have you? it uses it to sense the coolant temp and to idle-up when cold.
Just had another look over the diagrams from subaruboxer (very good diagrams by the way), and its got the coil wire as being mostly yellow, then it goes to this yellow/red wire from the engine connector to the coil connector (which isnt the same yellow/red wire for the idle valve), BUT i dont remember this on mine, i *think* it was yellow all the way. Then it goes to the fuel pump relay which you were having trouble with. Maybe theres still something funny going on?
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I will check the above points .
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I had just about given up with my stock ecu , untill tonight .
I whent to perth based Tony Flood service center , on the shelf he had a 1994 subaru service book with a three yellow plug ecu .
so far I have found three wiring faults > time will tell as I go through the pin outs .
seagull
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Sonds good... I will be tkaing my engine and loom out this weekend hopefully, if you have the time, maybe you can express post me your loom and i'll compare the two?
Sharbuilt Beach buggy with Subaru 2L Turbo
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Click here for wiring loomsThank for the offer .I had found the pin out C10 was to power full time , it needs starter feed only .I think just to keep going through my ecu and I will find more .
Thanks for the help , it all about learning and doing your head in on monster projects .
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... just keep thinking of the $5000 some people reckon you'd have to spend on an aftermarket computer, wiring, sensors, tuning, troubleshooting... all the stuff you already have in the stock ECU!
It is a head-f*k, but keep going with it, one wire at a time... you will eventually get there
Pay your debts, CxxT
Sounds like your just about there Neil. Hold off on the aftremarket, you won't be dissapointed with the stock ECU for your application I'm sure.
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Thanks guys 🙂 Yes the stock ecu would be just fine for my use .
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Did you figure out what the problem was? I have a 95 EJ22 that idles 2000 rpms and then drops to 600 rpm's. And then cycles over again.
The idle up motor on the right is a one way valve that basically gives an air leak when cold. The thing is controlled by water temp running through it. It comes apart..have a look make sure it is not sticking...then pull one off the other 3 engines and swap it, and plug it in.. if the fault is still present then look at wiring.
Mine is blocked off and not used...just turn the idle screw a turn.
Arent you supposed to be here neil!!!!!!
Matt
