A friend of mine said the other day that he is not opposed to highly modifying his VW's, but he would like to keep them to the "original design brief", that is they were aircooled then and they are aircooled now... although I'm not opposed to a well engineered Subi power bug.
I am also going T4 at the moment, and am hoping not to have to be able to fix it at the side of the road. The point of the T4 for me is everything is beefier than the T1 so hopefully a little more durable.
Keep us updated with what you end up building Muds
Buggy Brad wrote:The last kombi I went in with a 2.3L type 4 built by John Alder went like stink and had cost the guy just over $12 000 .
$12,000! For that you could get a Jake Raby engine delivered by chopper to your house (and possibly Jake to install it!). :P Seriously though Jake has a 120HP TIV kit for under US$3000 that would be worth considering if you wanted to build your own engine (and had a good core).
dubbill wrote:who did your head work???
what size valves??
dport or oval
Jax heads at lismore will be doing them when i get off my ring and send them down he has done all my heads before and there all still on motors and running great there 5mm bigger s/s mainly spelling could be up the shit there and i think d port only is on type 1s i may be wrong but im yet to see them so ill try and post pic's when i get them back
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
Buggy Brad wrote:mmm interesting post .. I too went down the Type 4 path before going up the Subie Tree. The thing I find funny is that Type 4 supporters tell you how they can fix it on the side of the road and how simple it is. Correct me if I m wrong but I am guessing you are going to run after market FI on this baby. If this is that case then you have bugger all VW left and Bugger all you can fix on the side of the track. SO what you are really building is an air cooled subie engine .. yeah ?? That being said if you build it right then there should be no need to fix anything on the side of the track..
Yeah they are easy to fix if they break but the idea is to not make them break we do drive offroaders and if you drive like me you will break any engine you stick in the back sooner or later, my last engine i called it a shit box cause it came out of the vw pille of shit in my shed all i did was slap it together with new bearings, rings and a big cam and it went hard for what it wasn't the new one will have aftermarket efi so really its a updated vw engine i don't think its any less of a vw engine its just had a bit of modern stuff put in. my idea is to fix all the weak points and have strong engine as im going across the simpson and up the top in this car with this engine
I have ordered the engine parts and am going with stock stroke with 103s i think it should be great fun building this engine and driving it also
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
Oh there is going to be plenty of going hard i have not driven a offroader for 6 months its just silly me with no offroader is like a drugo with no drugs or a pub with no beer it just dont work
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
It stops being a vw engine when it has subaru or mazda or sometning else stamped into it. VW had flat engines with EFI long long long before subaru did.
:thumb MUD for not taking the easy way out. You could also put a small turbo on it for more stump pulling but I guess the extra hassles arent worth it. The only problems I have ever had with the type 4's are the heads. @#&%! things. Some of those type 1 style heads would be the go but would mean a hefty mortgage for most ppl.
👎 3 ppl for letting their biased opinions ruin a thread. I'll send u2u's so you know who you are.
:beer to the others who can offer opinions either way without being arseholes.
Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf
Well I recieved a u2u from "Amazer" saying I ruined this thread by my biased 1916cc opinion............for the record, I'm currently building a T4 engine for my J&S buggy as well as a T4 engine to potentially race in the over 2000cc class in hillclimb.
Any reference that I had made to the humble 1916cc (now edited in a previous post) was with respect to the short stroke/ big bore theory. At NO stage had I suggested the option of a 1916cc for Mudbasher, nor did I try and start a Stroker vs subi vs 1916 debate.
I just found it interesting that a VW enthusiast that usually builds stroker (over 2300cc) type 1 engines would choose a 66mm stroke crank over a 71mm stroke crank when building a T4 engine.............similiar to the principals of a 1916 engine.
Please do not read into this, as some have, as a "I LOVE 1916 only" opinion.......................its more that I love the big bore/short stroke combinations.
My opinion for this car................71x103,standard valve 1800 heads,9.5:1 compression,a pair of 44IDF's, a mild cam.....................................and a nice muddy track to play on !
Sorry for any misunderstandings :thumb
And Amazer..............don't shoot from the hip.nn[ Edited on 10-8-2005 by Craig Torrens ]
Who gives a rats arse what motor a offroader will be running. Just build what ya like. Then when they are going we all can go out and flog the arse of them and have some fun.
What computer you going to run????
Andy42 wrote:Who gives a rats arse what motor a offroader will be running. Just build what ya like. Then when they are going we all can go out and flog the arse of them and have some fun.
What computer you going to run????
Some of us don't want to waste too much hard-earned money finding out that we don't like what we have built
who gives a shit if its a 1916, a 2l t4 or a freakin 28litre diesel beast.
why should there even be arguments about which is better...and how is mentioning a 1916cc motor ruining a thread...all of you..get a life...everyone can do what they want with their without having to put up with shitkickers of the aircooled community.
Just had a look at this thread for the first time...I kinda gathered by the way it was gathering momentum that it was turning into an us and them arguement again.
mud man stick to your guns man, and build what you want. As once said in an infamous Python movie "we're all individuals" but seeing MB comments I think we know that.
Just as a matter of interest regarding ,when does a vw engine stop being a vw...had a chat with Jay Upton rider, builder and owner of that white top fuel Triumph (which looks or sounds nothing like a trumpy).
I said "Jay what makes it a Triumph ?"
To which he replied "the head gasket"
Yep thats right anything goes...as long as the head gasket is OEM.
Andy42 wrote:Who gives a rats arse what motor a offroader will be running. Just build what ya like. Then when they are going we all can go out and flog the arse of them and have some fun.
What computer you going to run????
HELL YEAH !!!!! and im running the delco system the same as ratty 63s
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
