$250 labour + parts for a clutch fork replacement??

ash logan · 2006-01-14T02:55:19+00:00

I took my 63 beetle to the local VW mechanic after the clutch gave way. He had a quick look and he seems to think that the clutch fork has broken. When i asked him how much it is likely to cost to get it replaced he said that he charges $250 to remove and install a motor, not including any parts. Is this reasonable?? it definetly doesn't seem like it. It wouldnt take more than 1 hour for an experienced vw mechanic would it? I have a feeling that the pressure plate may also be suspect. Does anyone have an idea of what this work should cost??

Edmond Commited Dubber

55 posts · joined Oct 2005 · 17 Jan 2006, 12:28 am

#447829

The pressure plate. You can see a circular scoring that the clutch fork arms were obviously making. Probably when I over tightened the clutch cable.

When i was considering the costs of a mechanic (while staring at the raised rear end) , I had your $250 figure in mind, plus towing from home to mechanic plus whatever they charge for spares plus the labour for the job. I was guessing around $600.

Its not a walk in the park to drop the engine. I still have to do the repairs and reinstall it.

I hope my pics help with your diagnosis and good luck whichever way you go
Ed

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barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,476 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 17 Jan 2006, 5:29 am

#447840

so just to prove a point how long did it take you to get it out?

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vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 17 Jan 2006, 6:10 am

#447843

the list goes on

I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true

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pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 · 17 Jan 2006, 9:25 am

#447879

I have done lots of work on VWs and also used VW mechanics.

I think you need to decide how much time you have, and how good at working on mechanical things you are. With my last beetle, I always had the car serviced by a VW specialist. This was for a few reasons. A. the car was my daily transport and I couldn't afford to have it off the road. B. if something went wrong with the service then I had recall and mechanic had to fix it...which I knew they would because they are reliable and well established. C. there are a number of things I didn't have the time, tools or experience to do satisfactorilly.

With the buggy, I had more time to learn how to do things so I did a lot of the mechanical stuff. However, I still had my VW mechanic do a rear main seal for me, rebuild the gearbox and get the subie engine and gearbox mated correctly.

The plus of using a qualified experienced VW mechanic from my perspective is this. I now have two mate who are VW specialists. If I ever need to know something, I can ring or drop in for a chat and they give me the rundown. If I need a big job done on a gearbox/engine or something else complex, I have two mates who can do it...and do it well. In that situation, I'm glad to pay them to do what they do.

So in the end, Yes, going to the mechanic costs money, but there is a pay off for having him work on your car. Firstly, you get a well serviced car and secondly, you get a sounding board when you need advice.

BTW, I think $250 for an R&R of an engine is very reasonable.

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1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 · 17 Jan 2006, 11:35 am

#447913

Hi Pete, Dave. Things seemed to have now settled down with some meaningfull info. At least the guy now has some idea of what it really takes to remove the engine and NEXT time it'll be much easier. If, and it would be best, the cluch assembly needs replacing, he could now get the engine to someone to have a look at the flywheel seal etc. Sorry to the real mechanics for doing you out of $$$ but the money he has saved can purchase the bits needed to repair the clutch maybe from you. He just has to be careful that he doesn't bend the friction plate when getting the engine back in. Also, while the engine is away getting the bits done, he will have the time to replace the fork. Maybe he can afford doing it this way but the other way may put it out of reach.

As for qualified mechanics being the best ones to work on the mechanical parts of an engine, I would like to point out that MOST railway engines with large GM and ALCO diesels are only worked on by Fitter and Machinists. Thankfully I do fit into this category and many of the modified VW engines of the 60s from the Blacktown (the fellows from the old Lennox Motors) area had the parts machined at Eveleigh Loco Workshops! You'd be surprised what we got up to in those days and we all scratched each others backs. It didn't matter what trade we were from.

I actually passed my Ford to my local mechanic to replace the welsh plugs........... because the weather was too hot and the care factor was zero at the time, I had another vehicle as well as the Notch to get around AND I could offset the cost with machining work! However, the head gasket problem was done at home as I did have time and all of the machinery in my own workshop AND quite qualified to use it.

With that, if the Ford head fits on the mill, the VW ones certainly do as does the crankcase .................... anyone local in trouble give me a call.

Cheers for 2006 and roll on Valla!

[ Edited on 17/1/2006 by 1500S ]

Edmond Commited Dubber

55 posts · joined Oct 2005 · 17 Jan 2006, 11:46 am

#447917

I took 3 days
first day- wiring , plastic hoses, bits of tinware - about 2 hours of overrly meticulous documentation and carefulness.
second day - removed the little pipe stubs that connect the freshair hoses to the muffler, put back of car on stands, heater wires, accel cable and fuel hose plugging - 2 hours mostly on getting those pipes out cause they were stubborn
day 3 - the four nuts/bolt and dropping the engine - 1 hour with my wife as moral and physical support.

A lot of time was spent with hand on chin psyching up and wondering whether I was doing the right thing and rechecking the manuals over and over. I won't be wasting so much time next time. I'm guessing about 1 hour of careful work just to remove the engine.
It would have gone a lot quicker if I had someone who had done it before with me.
I dont know how long it will take me to put it back yet.

Ash- One thing that I learned is that the engine only just has clearance between rear apron and trans. Now I understand the fantastic idea of a removable rear apron.

I have had had good and bad experiences with mechanics. I would send this off to the shop if it were crankcase related or the gearbox, but I like to see whats going on and find the fault myself.

1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 · 17 Jan 2006, 10:14 pm

#448127

Edmond, good on you for having a go. Beats sitting with mind in neutral and watching TV. You can now take the other half out for dinner for all that moral support!!

pod i`ve got to finish this thing one day

4,980 posts · joined Dec 2003 · 17 Jan 2006, 10:37 pm

#448132

1500S wrote:Edmond, good on you for having a go. Beats sitting with mind in neutral and watching TV. You can now take the other half out for dinner for all that moral support!!

i second that , i remember the first dub motor i helped pull out, we were 16 yrs old ,we labeled where all the wires went and used bricks and a board to get it up and down:thumb

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ash logan Commited Dubber

55 posts · joined Aug 2003 · 18 Jan 2006, 2:41 pm

#448258

Thanks for all the replies people. It is nice to see a range of opinions and experiences out there.

Having spoken to the mechanic again and after reading this thread i have decided to leave this one for the mechanic considering there are other issues that need sorting before rego. Knowing that the job will be done correctly and by someone with experience will give me the peace of mind i am after.

Special thanks to Edmond for posting up the pics and the time breakdown. It definelty helps put it all into perspective.

Edmond Commited Dubber

55 posts · joined Oct 2005 · 18 Jan 2006, 6:38 pm

#448330

No worries Ash and hope it works out well. And thanks to others on the tech forum for support and kind words.